PLEASE PLEASE HELP!FORD 1200 TRACTOR

Gkw1993

New User
So here my story. I bought a Ford 1200 tractor with 830 hours on it that had been sitting for a year. I bought it not running. Put a starter on it, bleed fuel system, added hydralic fluid and she ran like a dream. After puttino two or three hours on it I'm driving across our field and it starts to die, like a idiot I didn't immediately turn it off. It died an I opened the hood to check the gas and I had coolant overflowing out of my radiator cap. Radiator cap was still o but coolant coming out the sides, as,if it over heated, it was full of coolant. But when I checked the gas tank, it was bone dry....I bleed the fuel system gave it a shot of ether and it acts like it's not getting enough cranking amps but it makes a sort of griping noise when I crank it over. It will crank once,or twice then stop on a grinding noise. Won't start. Need help. Thanks also, usually if it runs out of gas I have to bleed the fuel system, when I bleed it st first no gas,came out for a long time. Not sure if that,means anything or not.it's a,2 cylinder diesel and yes it had oil
 

Whoa whoa...

OK, so are you putting diesel in it or gas?


IF you ran it out of diesel, it is going to stop running. If the engine is hot when it died, it will have a hard time cranking if the radiator is clogged or the water pump is not working. If you have it running, it won't immediately show overheating symptoms because hot metal conforms. When the metal cools, at different rates, it could stick the pistons.


So, was it running hot when it died? the radiator should have coolant about an inch below the cap, if it is over filled, it will blow over. But, if it is running hot because of blockage, you will have it boil over and have excess heat in the block. do you have a infrared heat gun? once everything is stone cold, try to crank it back up. if the engine won't turn with the starter when cold, you could have done internal damage. if the engine will turn, but it won't try to start, you should bleed the fuel from the injectors, and see if you can get it to start. It is possible that the engine is full of iron precipitate in the coolant passages.

what have you done since it died?
 
(quoted from post at 04:54:16 01/21/16) , when I bleed it st first no gas,came out for a long time. Not sure if that,means anything or not.

Please proof-read your posts. I have no clue what you are saying.
 
First mistake was running it out of fuel.Second was using ETHER to get it started. The grinding noise could be the pistons on the cylinder walls.Maybe you should look for a gasser.
 
I hope you are meaning diesel when you are saying gas. Gas in a diesel engine does not work well. What was the temp gauge saying when you saw the fluid coming out the radiator cap? did it smell hot?
This is a NH TC33D with 356 hrs that was overheated to the point of engine seizure. Required boring the cyls. and installing oversize pistons. The aluminum pistons had started to transfer aluminum to the cylinder walls.
IMG_1438_zps0434afdb.jpg

IMG_1528_zps32b2f085.jpg
 
Yes I meant diesel sorry. No I didn't put regular gas in it. I did have the radiator filled to the to with coolant. It will crank over fine but when it stops cranking, it stops with a sudden short grinding noise.

quote="Dan Robertson"](quoted from post at 06:48:52 01/21/16) I hope you are meaning diesel when you are saying gas. Gas in a diesel engine does not work well. What was the temp gauge saying when you saw the fluid coming out the radiator cap? did it smell hot?
This is a NH TC33D with 356 hrs that was overheated to the point of engine seizure. Required boring the cyls. and installing oversize pistons. The aluminum pistons had started to transfer aluminum to the cylinder walls.
IMG_1438_zps0434afdb.jpg

IMG_1528_zps32b2f085.jpg
[/quote]
 
I recently had a 1210 Ford compact in for a no start problem. It had piston, injector and head problems all on the middle cylinder. Head was cracked. It had also had ether sprayed into it by the owner trying to start it. These tractors are glow plug equipped for starting. Ether is death for them. The little Shibaura engines are very hard to get used parts for. Some new parts are available through dealers but, they are ultra expensive. A new head for example was $2200 from the dealer. A rebuilt head is around $900. I was able to get him a used engine to get his tractor running again but, good used engines are also hard to find for these compacts. I needed one for a 1710 and have been unable to find one. So if you by some chance luck out and get yours running again without major damage remember,leave that ether can on the bench. Bleed the fuel system to get the air out and use the glow plugs to start that tractor. If not you will soon have major problems. I would now if I were you do a compression test on your engine to determine its condition. If the compression is down on any cylinder I would then pull the cylinder head to inspect valves and pistons. Great little machines when all is well but, real money pits when they go down with engine or tranny trouble. Good luck.
 
It might have overheated because you may have a bad thermostat? Dont know what to tell you about the grinding noise though.
 
I didn't spray alot of ether and help the can 2 ft or more away when spraying but in the past couple weeks iv used ether 75% of the time to start but sprayed small amounts while cranking. What can I do to trouble shoot this?compression seems good, acts like it's not getting enough voltage, should I post a video of me cranking it??
 
A friend had one that would not run. I took the intake off and when it was cranked it popped up through the intake manifold.

I thought the cam was bad or something like that.

The neighbor was going to pull the head and check the valves. When he pulled the muffler he decided to try to start it just for the heck of it.
Started right up.

Muffler was completely blocked with carbon.

Zane
 
Sounds like a cracked head let antifreeze on top of the pistons while sitting after running out of fuel, you can remove a glow plug to see if water comes out when cranking or it just has too much air in fuel lines and too much staring fluid.
 
Test the battery and clean connections.
Is the starter hot to touch? Possibly a light duty aftermarket starter? They can be bench tested and rebuilt.

Do the glow plugs work? A digital thermometer pointed at the glow plug terminal might give you an indication when cycling. I bench test mine and compare to one another to get an idea how many seconds it takes for them to heat up. It's like 20+ seconds on one of my machines.

Does it have a block heater? If so use it. If not and its cold point a halogen light (1500watt) at the block for a few hours. I usually set it a foot away from my hard starting 6 cylinder when it's 0 out.

Manuals usually cover this stuff really well. In terms of steps.
 
Do a compression test with a compression gauge. If you have cylinder down the test will reveal that. As I said before ether is death for these engines. Does not matter how little you spray into it or how far back you hold the can ETHER will destroy these engines. The glow plugs are there to start the engine. I speak with knowledge gained from plenty of past experience on these tractors. They will not tolerate ether sprayed into the intake manifold to start them. If it has already had ether used on it then, be assured damage has already occurred. Some engines can tolerate use of ether but, those little Shibaura's cannot.
 
(quoted from post at 18:17:18 01/21/16) A friend had one that would not run. I took the intake off and when it was cranked it popped up through the intake manifold.

I thought the cam was bad or something like that.

The neighbor was going to pull the head and check the valves. When he pulled the muffler he decided to try to start it just for the heck of it.
Started right up.

Muffler was completely blocked with carbon.

Zane

These are known for carbon in the muffler. When running from time to time take a hammer handle and give it several whacks and watch the carbon blow out of it. Friend has the 1210 I sold him and we have had to do that about 1-2 times a year.
 
(quoted from post at 12:08:25 01/23/16) Also, the 3pt hook up arms in the back are all the,way lowered and won't come back up...

The 3 point system is driven by a pump that only runs when the engine is running, so the 3 point arms won't raise unless you get the engine running. Or were you having the problem with the 3 point lift before the engine quit? If so, let's get your engine problems sorted out first, and then you can start a new thread about the 3 point arms not lifting.
 
Yea but even before these problems the arms would stay raised in the position I left them in when I shut off the tractor
 
(quoted from post at 12:46:57 01/23/16) Yea but even before these problems the arms would stay raised in the position I left them in when I shut off the tractor

I don't understand you fully. Are you saying that the arms were raised when the engine quit and since then they've drifted down? Slowly drifting down is normal, as the seals in the cylinders and control valves can't be perfect, especially as the tractor ages. If there's an implement on the lift arms then you shouldn't leave the arms raised when you park the tractor, as that puts unnecessary stress on the seals and the seals will need to be replaced sooner than if you always lower the implement to the ground every time you park it. Leaving an implement raised when parked is also a safety concern, as someone could accidentally bump the control and cause it to lower, or a seal could give out causing it to lower, when someone's at the back of the tractor and might get hurt. The only time I leave an implement raised is if I want to clean or sharpen my brush hog, and then I put jack stands under it for safety while I work on it.
 
Sorry if I don't know,the correct terms. This,is my first diesel and first tractor. No there is no implement on the 3 pt it just dropped and usually dosnt do that so I didn't know,if that would have something to do with it. Here is a video if that helps[/img]
 
Sorry if I don't know,the correct terms. This,is my first diesel and first tractor. No there is no implement on the 3 pt it just dropped and usually dosnt do that so I didn't know,if that would have something to do with it. Here is a video if that helps
 
Sorry if I don't know,the correct terms. This,is my first diesel and first tractor. No there is no implement on the 3 pt it just dropped and usually dosnt do that so I didn't know,if that would have something to do with it. Here is a video if that helps
 
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