plow adjustment question

DanMD

Member
I know very little about plowing and only plow about 1/2 acre per year. I was getting frustrated with my old Sears Roebuck 2x14 trailer plow not consistently coming out of the ground and making a mess when I ran up to the tree line and had to make a hard turn with it stuck in the ground. So I just picked up a 3pt IH 531 3x14 plow and would like to try and use it on my SMD with a Saginaw hitch. I have read about the lack of draft control being problematic, but I think that wont be an issue for my limited use. What I would like to know is how critical is the 25 1/2" measurement from the centerline of the tractor to the inside of the right tire? Mine measures 27.5" to 28" and I would rather not have to change that if it isnt that big of a deal for the little plowing I do and maybe a plow day here and there if it works ok?

Thanks,
Dan
 
I don't think the extra 2-2.5 inches will make a bit of difference ......... I bet most fellows wavier that much just steering the tractor.

As for the draft control, you won't need it, most Farmall "Ms" pulled three bottom drag plows, you only need draft control when your tractor is not heavey enough to pull the plow.
 
The real issue is the distance from the inside of the sidewall of that tire to the landslide of the first moldboard. The original assumption is for tires on the tractor that was associated with the plow when it was new. but that might be much different than what is on your M. The distance (close to 14 inches) allows the first moldboard to cut its full width. It is OK if it is within an inch or two. Find out by putting the plow into the ground for tests. the second pass, stop and dig in the furrow behind the wheel to see where the share trailing edge is related to the cut earth of the furrow. Jim
 
Which plow problem do you want to solve first here? The mechanic lift of the trailer plow Is probably the one I would tackle firsts.

I think the SM is not going to handle the soil in your area . Plows are not going to perform outside their area. It will a challenge in the same field ,soil will change .
Ihc has 22 different moldboards set up for the soils . The dealer will match the plow purchase with what ihc offered in plow design , to work for that customer. Which do you have and does it match your soil ?
added this suggestion get this book it will save you a lot of time and money.
 
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Which plow problem do you want to solve first here? The mechanic lift of the trailer plow Is probably the one I would tackle firsts.

I think the SM is not going to handle the soil in your area . Plows are not going to perform outside their area. It will a challenge in the same field ,soil will change .
Ihc has 22 different moldboards set up for the soils . The dealer will match the plow purchase with what ihc offered in plow design , to work for that customer. Which do you have and does it match your soil ?
added this suggestion get this book it will save you a lot of time and money.
How do you even know what the OP's soil type is, that you're so sure his tractor can't handle it???

Your information is at least 40 years out of date. Moldboard plowing is such an outdated practice these days, CaseIH barely carries ONE style of moldboard anymore. Specialty moldboards are obsolete and long out of production. Nobody at the dealership even knows what a moldboard plow is, let alone how to match one to a customer's soil.

I'd love to have seen them "match" a plow to our soil back in the day. In the same field, the soil can go from sandy loam to sticky clay to coarse gravel in a single pass. We only ever used standard Super Chief moldboards, which is all you can buy at a CaseIH dealer anymore.

This is not something the OP needs to be worried about. He's plowing a relatively small garden, not breaking virgin ground. All he needs to do is hook it up, get it set to plow level, and try it.
 
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