Plow Adjustments

[Jeremy in DE]

Not precisely a Ferguson question. But you guys seem polite to basic questions and the picture includes a TO30.

I've had this plow for 8 years now (picked it up for $14 at a sale). I figured I'd learn to use it by trial and error, but I still feel unsure. I use it for the garden and strawberries. Maybe 1/2 acre a year.

This afternoon went OK, but a few weeks ago when I finished that garden plot it looked more like a giant mole attacked it than someone plowed it.

I've noted all of the obvious places for adjustment. What can/should I adjust to do better.

My normal problems 1) The plow often rides hard to the left until limited by that stay chain. 2) I often cannot flip the soil, but merely tear a grove in it and pile the rubble to the one side 3) even when it goes OK, the field is never very smooth when done.

Maybe I shouldn't compare, but I watch the big guys around here with their giant plows pulled by the eight-wheelers and when done the field looks smooth and perfect.

The soil here is very sandy. Today, in the picture, it's quite wet as it rained yesterday.

PS. Any idea what kind of plow? This picture might be a bad angle to identify.

 

[maxwell99]

can you show us some better pictures of the plow adjustments on the main bar (one with the two lower arm pins.

also a picture of the front edge of the plow point.

point must be sharp in order for the plow to suck it self into the ground. if right you will be having to raise it out of the ground.

 

[Jason S.]

From what I can see that is a Dearborn plow. One thing that I see wrong is the plow isn"t level. When the tractor wheels are in a furrow turn the leveling crank until the plow sits level. It will cut better and turn the dirt over better. The top link should be about 25 inches from center to center. Also the lift on the tractor must properly be adjusted for the draft control to work right.That tractor with the proper set up on the plow can plow as pretty as the big guys you were watching.

 

[Jeremy in DE]

Here are some additional pictures.

The adjustment on the main bar will allow the right side of the barn to move front to back slightly while loosened. Note the little teeth to prevent movement once the U-bolt is tightened. (The left side is a plain U-bot and doesn't allow shifting.) But when both sides are loosened the bar itself can move right to left any amount.

The plow seems to suck down. Although what do I know, I'm the one asking questions. The draft control seems to be "holding it up" in that if I lower the lever the plow will drop deeper, to the point of stopping the tractor if I let it.

I know the plow is worn, but the price was right and I cannot justify spending more for what little I do.

The threaded rod was an attempt some time ago to mount a coulter wheel. It didn't line up right, but I left it as it helps when manhandling it out of the way in the barn.

 

[Dave Sherburne NY]

I think that is a 16" Dearborn Plow. Easy way to make adjustment is to put the left side wheels up on 8" blocks then adjust the plow so it is level front to back with the toplink and left to right with the leveling crank on the lift arm. Did you move that bar the lift arms hook to, it should be about 8 7/8" from the plow frame to the inside of the ball that goes on the pin of the bar. With the tractor still on the blocks and plow leveled, put a long board up against the land side of the plow, thats the left side looking at it from the rear. It should be parallel to the centerline of the tractor but probably not under the centerline. If it's not parallel, there should be an eccentric on the right side of the bar where it attaches to the plow to turn the plow so it points to where it makes it parallel. Another adjustment is the wheel spacing it should be 27 1/2" from the center of the tractor to the inside of the right rear wheel. If your plow and the one I have in mind are different, this is probably wrong. My Email is open .

 

[Jason S.]

(quoted from post at 21:52:55 10/24/13) Here are some additional pictures.

The adjustment on the main bar will allow the right side of the barn to move front to back slightly while loosened. Note the little teeth to prevent movement once the U-bolt is tightened. (The left side is a plain U-bot and doesn't allow shifting.) But when both sides are loosened the bar itself can move right to left any amount.

The plow seems to suck down. Although what do I know, I'm the one asking questions. The draft control seems to be "holding it up" in that if I lower the lever the plow will drop deeper, to the point of stopping the tractor if I let it.

I know the plow is worn, but the price was right and I cannot justify spending more for what little I do.

The threaded rod was an attempt some time ago to mount a coulter wheel. It didn't line up right, but I left it as it helps when manhandling it out of the way in the barn.

Here are some pics I took from my Ferguson The Art of Ploughing video and my Ferguson plowing manual. This should get you going in the right direction. Do you have a quadrant stop on your tractor?

See how the plow is level when the tractor is in the furrow?

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Something's broken here. I wasn't sure if it was an optical illusion, so I enlarged the zoom- you seem to be missing a piece of the 'shin'. Unless it is the leading edge of the mouldboard, it 'may' be a replaceable part. Now who's the guy in PA with all the plow parts?? Clean that area off good and post more pictures.
A rock broke if off, and every root of grass will aim the plow off balance.

 

[Jason S.]

I think on that one the shin is part of the moldboard. If you notice the moldboard is worn at the back in the same spot.

 

[s19438]

zoom? what zoom ? how does one find the zoom???

 

[Tony in Mass.]

I have 2 choices. Lower right hand corner of the screen, above the clock, is a 100,125,150 or pick a % increase or decrease in size- including print. For just pictures, there is a 'magnification', in the start up menu, but that can be a pain if you hit the wrong key. Nether helps with people's lousy cell phone pics, but a clear pic can blow up quite a bit- 3-400%? before it becomes jibberish..

 

[miner09]

Move the lift bar over so edge of cutting edge will line up on edge of last cut. This will let plow throw dirt over and be even.If it digs in adjust center adjustment out. Point is down to much. I always do this as I plow. Also I always use stabilizers bar to keep plow straight.

 

[maxwell99]

I saw this picture of a plow like yours that is for sale.

I thought you might look at the plow (picture) and determine how they have this one set up, angle of the cross bar, might help you get yours going.

to give you a reference of cost: they are asking $150 for this plow.

note: this one has a wing extension, this is to help turn over the dirt.

 

[Jason S.]

Why do you need stabilizer bars to keep the plow straight? I've actually heard of people breaking their plows because of using stabilizer bars and it didn't let the plow move when it needed to.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Your plow may also be a Phillips foundry plow out of barkerfield Ca.
They were one of ford implement suppliers in the mid '40s.

Kirk

 

[John(UK)]

The cross-shaft on that plow is not as Ferguson would be, otherwise it looks very similar. If you would like the operators Book for the Ferguson Plow, you would be able to use the information to set-up your plow. if you would like a copy, email me at the address below and I will send it to you. John(UK) [email protected]