plow difficulties

[Dennis@mo]

Needing some advice. I bought a 3 point 3 bottom plow for my JX65. I can't get the plow to go in the ground except for the first shear and that is not very much. How are 3 point arms positioned? Got really aggravated and took it off but would really like to get it to plow. I can take the 3rd moldboard off with just 4 bolts and make it a two really easy. Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Janicholson]

The primary reason for a plow not going into the soil is dull points/shares Almost all moldboard plows today have combination share and point leading edge. IH Plowchief models have separate points that bolt on and aer about 8.5 inches long abd 2 inches wide with a barb like tip on the leading edge.
If the share is worn it will be rounded on the leading edge and not present a cutting rdge to the soil. Especially important is that under edge configuration. If the plow was sitting on a very flat concrete floor, with all moldboards touching, the leading edge of each would be sharp, and in near contact with the concrete. Not presenting a rounded under contour. Imagine the difference between a razor scraper and a dull putty knife on a larger scale.
If dull/worn, they will push out of the ground.
The second major issue is hard packed clay from being driven on, or dry to the point of near ceramic/adobe solidity. New sharp shares might be rejected trying to turn that soil (if you can call it that)
the third issue is angle of attack, which you said was aggressive enough the the first share was the only thing touching the ground. In which case the plow should easily "suck" into the earth and go as deep as set.
Let us know if you could easily shove a conventional hand spade into the soil with one foot and a good push. if not it might be the soil. Jim

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Aside from what Janicholson said below,your top link length may be too long.On flat ground,with the plow on the ground,the points should be the only part of the plow resting.Mark

 

[Janicholson]

Some shares today are actually without a distinct point. I wish we had a photo, or knew what plow it is. Jim

 

[FBH44]

I have a Farmall H, and bought a John Deere 2-14, and fitted a Cross Manufacturing 3-point hitch onto the back of the H. I spent one summer trying to figure how to plow, how to adjust this combination. {I am not a farmer.] I finally figured what I guess every actual farmer knows; with the right-side wheel dropped down into the furrow, the plow has to cut the bottom of the furrows level, the left-hand edges of the furrows have to cut straight up-and-down vertical by the coulters, the tractor has to pull the plow straight fore-and-aft, the 3-point arms and top link are adjusted to accomplish this. In my case, the tractor slewed the plow around hard to the left, and tractor slewed around, kicked up into the air, and I had to invent a turn-buckle to hold the plow from slewing, and hold a 14" spacing from the right wheel. By crouching down on the ground in the rear, I could visualize how the plow had to cut into the ground. The 3-point arms and the top link length had to be adjusted to accomplish this. Once I figured this out, and fine-tuned it, she plowed perfectly. To my way of thinking, perfectly. I think actually the plow is supposed to be fine tuned, to have alight angles of attack, slightly this way and that, but for me, it worked.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The plow can only do so much. It has to be hanging off the tractor in the right place, at the right angle, to plow properly.

 

[DeltaRed]

To expand on Jim's comment,If the shares look like 'sled runners' when viewed from straight across the underside,they are worn out.Replace them.

 

[Jim Becker]

fbh44:"(quoted from post at 03:56:03 11/02/16) . . . In my case, the tractor slewed the plow around hard to the left, and tractor slewed around, kicked up into the air, and I had to invent a turn-buckle to hold the plow from slewing, and hold a 14" spacing from the right wheel. . . ."

That usually means the 3-point hitch was shop-built by somebody that didn't know what they were doing. Fixing the hitch would eliminate the need for the turn-buckle.

 

[FBH44]

You're probably exactly right. But it's all I could figure out. Seemed to work.

 

[fastfarmall]

To expand on both Jim's And DeltaRed point, if that plow had what they call a DeeP Suck Attachmett, -[ a yellow sticker explains how to do it, on the back of the moleboard] if it's got that, That and some new shares should solve your problems.

 

[wolfman]

First, make sure the points are good. If points are ok, sit the plow down and take the top link off; pull the plow a bit and shorten the right hitch leveling link until the plow is plowing about properly; then put the top link on adjusting its length to fit the plow as it sits in the ground; maybe shorten the top link a turn or two. You should be ready to plow. After you plow 15 or 20 acres and the points wear, you will have to shorten the top link a turn or two to maintain the depth you want.