Plowing problem

[pikewi]

I decided to plow a couple acres of sod on my 40 just because I can.
I have an old 2-14 plow in good cond. and read the plowing section in my N manual.
I made my first pass an the sod turned over nicely. ( at this point I am already making big plans).
I got to my second pass, right wheels in the furrow etc. and the plow cut in well but didn't turn over the sod. Just turned it up and it flopped back down grass side up. (big plans evaporate.)
Any idea what I am doing wrong?
Pike-not the farmer

 

[Ultradog MN]

You can't plow to slow. It takes a little speed to get the sod to roll over.

 

[R Geiger]

once you get the wheel in the furrow, raise the righte side . probally going to deep and the plow share is setting at the wrong angle. play with it , you will get it to work.

 

[Greybeard - PA]

Don't know whatcher' power unit is, but most N's like to plow in second at nearly full throttle. Whilst doin' all this, you want both moldboard tips to be out of the ground about the same amount and your two turned-over furrows on the plowed ground to be the same height.

You only need concern yourself with two major adjustrments - your top link, which sets the plow point angle, and the leveling box, which keeps the two bottoms level with eachoher.

One other thought - coulters are pretty important when plowing either heavy sod or cddddddddddorn stubble - helps to bury the trash on top. The settings for these are covered in the Ferguson Plow Manual - only two - depth and alignment with the plow point - they oughta' be almost buried to the hub when you are at normal plow depth - AND thoe little scraper shares on the jointers are sorta' important when you are in clay or heavy soil, JMHO.

Good Luck. Let us know how you fare.

 

[Charles Krammin]

Plows also come with different moldboards hi speed have less twist to them and are meant to run in 3rd on 8N, low-speed moldboard, in second. Moldboard extension bolt on at end of moldboard helps in sod. All plow require to be "scoured" ( Midwest term fo "Shinny". Rusty moldboard inhibit the sliding of the dirt on the moldboard. "Scouring" is best accomplished each start of season by plowing in sand. Clay soils also stick to the rusty moldboard. They can be scoured by stopping when the soil sticks,prying off stuck dirt with tools and using the grit of the soil like sandpaper and last with sole of shoe. Once shiny you can move up one gear, not plow so deep and sod will flip over better.
The previous adjustments posted also are necessary
Charles Krammin

 

[JMOR]

I can't believe that no real plow boy hasn't mentioned the adjustment that acts like a ruder and points the plow left/right. Wow!

 

[Ultradog MN]

Tail wheel, side adjustment, kant, etc affect how easily the plow slips through the soil. But as he describes it his problem is not to do with tracking. Just my read on his post.

 

[Billybuck]

Believe JMOR is on to something here. You might look at the plow toolbar. If you loosen the plow tool bar, when you rotate it, the plow share tips change angle right/left. The tips should enter with a slight angle left. If you place a string parallel to the share, the string should land, (I recall around 6 inches) left of center, looking forward, as it lands between the front wheels of the tractor. It"s a small amount at entry back at the plow points but helps roll the soil off the moldboard.

After making the first pass, drive into the furrow, then adjust the plow level to the ground with just a slight positive entry "attitude". You can do this by driving the left wheels up on 4x4"s or similar too, before entering the field.