Plumbing on live hydraulic conversion, Farmall H

[Benter91]

Afternoon everyone. I recently bought a live pump from a super H for my 52' H. My H should have the correct cam gears and front cover holes. I want to use two way cylinders for my loader so I have a few plumbing questions as I've see a lot of different options.
I want to run the supply/suction line from the drain plug of my gutted lift all reservoir to the input on the new live pump, then run the output line to an open center valve with a built in relief valve, with a spin on filter in between, not sure if this is the best place to run the filter or not. Then run the return line from the spool to one of the old output lines from the lift all system. It seems some guys use the fill neck or Tee to the drain along with the suction line for the return line but i think the old output makes more sense unless I'm missing something. And lastly if i use the old output for the return do i need a sealed fill cap or can i leave it vented. Thanks!

 

[ih560]

I do not think you would want to put the filter in the pressure line to the valve. You would want to put it in the return line to the reservoir or a screen-type filter in the suction line to the pump.
I do not think you would want to the filter to see full pump pressure.
I would also leave the reservoir vented to allow expansion and contraction, plus if you use any single-acting cylinders the vent will be needed for air to escape and enter the reservoir.

I added live hydraulics to my 52 H in the way I described above, with a filter in the return to the reservoir and a screen-type filter that screws into my reservoir for the suction side of the pump, but I fabricated a reservoir to fit into the place of the original belly pump with more capacity. I use a loader on this tractor a lot for hours at a time and have never had a heating issue or any other issues with it the way I have described above.

 

[Benter91]

Thanks so much!! That's what i'll do!

 

[Benter91]

Also, On your 52', where did you run the return line?

 

[ih560]

My return line passes through one of the openings in the torque tube where one of the pressure lines uses to come out, but as I said, I don't have the original belly pump in there anymore, just a custom fabricated reservoir. I wouldn't think you would want to return the fluid from your valve bank to the reservoir through one of those fittings unless you have removed the pump from inside the belly pump housing or at least tied the belly pump lever forward so that fluid could pass into it without resistance. I would still think that wouldn't be the route to go. There needs to be very little to no pressure on the return line of the valve/regulator. The specs should be listed in the documentation with whatever valve you buy.

 

[Benter91]

Thanks again, I plan on gutting the reservoir, or sense i work at a Fab shop i might just make a new tank to bolt into the belly pump location.

 

[ih560]

I thought about using the factory belly pump at first and then decided against it, it really won't hold enough fluid to keep the system cool during hard use. The rule of thumb that I was always taught was to have at least half the volume of your flow in GPM to ensure that the fluid would stay cool under moderate/heavy use. The 300/350 hydraulic pump is 10GPM, so I wanted to get as close as I could to a 5-gallon reservoir. I know there are a lot of people out there who get by with a smaller reservoir, but I had the materials and tools to make what I felt was a correct reservoir for the pump, so I made it. I made my reservoir where it goes up into the belly and around the input shaft like the original belly pump did (with a semi-circle passage through it for the input shaft to pass through), but you really wouldn't have to do that unless you really wanted to. I don't think I took any pictures of it before I put it up in the belly and don't really want to drop it with it full of fluid or I would take a pic for you. Maybe I can get a picture by sticking my phone up in the hole with the flash on. I will check if I go out to the garage later.

 

[D Slater]

May not be what's called ideal, but the F-300 350 hydraulic capacity was 8.5 to 9 quarts and that system got hotter than a open
center valve will on a H. Gutted H housing like you have will hold that much. I run 8 to 8.5 quarts in one with single acting
cylinders on a loader. I made a suction hole in housing 3/4 pipe tread. Used a spool valve with 3/4 inlet and outlet and if never
wanting to convert housing back make 3/4 threads in the original control shaft hole for the return. If you cleaned the inside of
belly housing out good and keep everything clean I would skip the filters unless a screen for suction. Unless using a large size
return filter the small ones will bypass a lot. I run the fill opening vented.

 

[David G]

I took the belt pulley gears off my H and put a tank with filter there.

 

[Janicholson]

Pressure side filters are not best, the filter must handle the 1200psi. And it puts the filter where the oil has just come
out of the pump that you want to protect, and goes through all the least expensive components (where it can pick up junk) and
goes into that fine pump. Put a filter that can handle 20gpm on the suction side. Jim

 

[Benter91]

Thanks for all the info fellas!

 

[Benter91]

Another question. I'll be using a directional control valve for my loader with the Live hydraulics. How do i plumb in rear remotes for my disc/cultivators with single acting cylinders? Would i need a control valve for those as well?