Poll: Average cranking time on cold start?

I have a 48 ford 8N that takes an average of 15-20 seconds of cranking on a cold start. Just curious if this is normal as this is my first Ford tractor. I"m a little worried about the battery this winter for those cold plowing sessions..
 
Dave:

If everything is in good condition, the engine should start within about 2 revolutions - perhaps a couple more if it is bitterly cold.

In any event, starter motors are intermittant duty motors and should not be operated continuously longer than 20 seconds or so without a significant cool down period.

Dean
 
All mine are converted to 12 volt , all start before you can count to 3. My tractor after sitting all winter at my recreational property in a dry shed from Oct to April , 1st start takes maybe 10 -15 seconds , after that to the count of 2 rest of the season.

Stan
1949 8N146710
1949 8N179555
1949 8N197904
1950 8N254079
1951 8N362039

& a 1950 parts tractor
In a pear tree
 
No, that's not normal for me. If I crank any of my 4 N's more than 5 seconds, I consider it to be a problem.

But, before I offer a few suggestions, is the tractor 6v or 12v?
50 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:00:11 11/07/09) Both N's (45 and 47) are 6 volt and start by 1st or 2nd revolution

Same here on my '49.

Keep in mind that you should be able to start them with a hand crank.
 
Mine usually starts on 1st or2nd rev ,I still have handcrank,and use it every once in a while,just for the heck of it.Starts easier than with starter,maybe because of more juice.---lha
 
It's starts easier w/ the starter because of more compression, not current. As a matter of fact, you will have all the battery current going to the ignition system when you use a hand crank.
50 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:11:59 11/07/09) It's starts easier w/ the starter because of more compression, not current. As a matter of fact, you will have all the battery current going to the ignition system when you use a hand crank.
50 Tips

Interesting thought, Bruce...BTW, my 51 sidemount 6v starts "cold" before the count of 2 (one thousand one, one thousand two) without the choke in current weather (50-70 deg)...
 
I knew the answer...... It's a 12 volt conversion, and I get great blue spark. Seems like a carb thing. Runs best when the idle jet is damn near all the way clockwise.
 

Mine starts before I can even reach the choke.... Ifin it's really cold might get to the choke..... and if it don't on the first rev or 2 ... sumthin's up...
 
My '47 2n fires on the 3rd rev, 1/4 throttle, no choke. But have your hand on the choke, 'cause it needs a little choke to keep'er runn'in!
 
'44 2N Front Mount 12V conversion starts on the 2nd or 3rd revolution with a bit of choke each and every time in the winter months. Mine needs a slight choke at any temperature, but starts great. I use about 1/3-1/2 throttle.
 

Mine would start at just-a-hint of the starter...virtually one revolution...for about 3 years. Then it got a little fussy and wanted choke and 5-8 revolutions. Then it got to requiring two to three attempts of about 5 seconds each.

Then I discovered my square-can, front-mount coil was not making full contact between that coil-spring and the tab. I stretched the spring and bent the tab so they'd make contact again...and VOILA! It starts again with just a "hint" of beginning to turn over. I haven't cleaned my spark plugs in 7 years, and I haven't done any tuneup work, or points, etc. (other than that tab-bending thing) either.

(And that's why it puzzles me when I hear others troubles with ignition, starting, and electronic-ignition troubles, etc etc. My ol' 9N just always fires right up and goes to work. It WAS converted to 12 volts about 7 years ago, tho'.)
 
Hey guys, sinceI posted this I rebuilt my carb with no decrease in time to start the engine cold.
I do have a couple of observations/stupid questions.
1)Q. Is the drain strainer supposed to have a cover?
I just have a hole in the bottom of the carb.
2)Ob. After removing the air intake tube from the carb, a quick spray of starting fluid starts the engine right away, and it will continue to run on gas from the tank. With no starting fluid, gas will run out of the air intake side of the carb, flooding the engine. I have good blue spark.
3) Once it starts, it idles fine, and runs great through the whole power range.
4)Q. Is there some "starting system" that is plugged or out of adjustment?
Any ideas or test paths appreciated.
FYI, this PDF seems really useful, but hasn"t helped me so far...
http://www.nnalert.com/PDF/carburetor.pdf
 
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