A couple of days ago there were messages about testing pony engines before installing in the tractor. I've attached pics of my crude test stand
that I use before finding out it has problems and having to remove it from the tractor again. I use a 6 volt battery to power the ignition and a 12 volt battery to run the starter. 12 volts on the starter spins the motor fast for an accurate check of compression. The radiator is from a Honda Gold Wing and holds one gallon of coolant and is just right for running the engine for long periods of time w/o overheating. The gas tank is from a pony engine door. The motor is held to the test bench by the long 1/2 bolts in the transmission housing. Most common problems on pony engines that have been inactive for long periods of time 1) burnt up coil box, 2) bent or broken push rods, 3) leaking seals on water pump, 4) leaking rear crankshaft seal, 5) gummed up carb with bad float and 6) malfunctioning clutch/transmission. The first order of business is to always check the compression in each cylinder ...should be at least 120 psi.
that I use before finding out it has problems and having to remove it from the tractor again. I use a 6 volt battery to power the ignition and a 12 volt battery to run the starter. 12 volts on the starter spins the motor fast for an accurate check of compression. The radiator is from a Honda Gold Wing and holds one gallon of coolant and is just right for running the engine for long periods of time w/o overheating. The gas tank is from a pony engine door. The motor is held to the test bench by the long 1/2 bolts in the transmission housing. Most common problems on pony engines that have been inactive for long periods of time 1) burnt up coil box, 2) bent or broken push rods, 3) leaking seals on water pump, 4) leaking rear crankshaft seal, 5) gummed up carb with bad float and 6) malfunctioning clutch/transmission. The first order of business is to always check the compression in each cylinder ...should be at least 120 psi.
