Potential Transmission Troubles

[pard]

I bought an 8N out of a parking lot last year. Didn't run, but I thought it was salvageable from my tire-kicking. Got it home and rewired the thing (horrible spaghetti wiring from the previous owner, sorta surprised it hadn't caught fire, except I think he had it wired hot to neutral, so likely he was just killing his battery right off the bat) and was able to get it running. I've not yet let it run too long, but I did try to get it moving and it'd give a good try, rock forward/back a few inches and then give up. Engine didn't stall, just wouldn't move. It was recommended that I engage the PTO and jam a 2x4 in to try and bog the engine down, but that didn't do anything, so I went ahead with the assumption that the clutch is the matter

I've split the tractor at the engine and I noticed water leaks/rust on the split. Got it open and there's a solid two inches of rust on the bottom, definitely spent the majority of its life sitting in the rain I'd reckon!

Now that I have it open I can spin the input shaft and it'll move the hubs (tires are off to be replaced) but it feels rough.

I'm thinking I should pull the top off the transmission to get a look at it. I can't quite tell but it feels like something might be stripped or a tooth might be missing. Figure it's worth the looking before I go through the effort of putting a new clutch in, resurfacing the flywheel, and cleaning out that whole housing. Any ideas before I got ahead? It could also be that it feels rough because of just how many revolution it takes get spin those hubs at all and I'm not getting it spun up enough to get the oil moving.

 

[Eman85]

Is there oil in it? Is there water in it?

 

[DMartin9N-2N]

Good afternoon, pard: Are you referring to splitting the tractor at the bell housing? There is a small hole at bottom of bell housing with a cotter key with its prongs open, but installed so it is loose, so water (or oil from a leaking seal) can dribble out. The cotter key needs to be in the hole to keep dirt daubers out. Others may want to add to this comment.
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Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
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[pard]

Right now with it split and the cylinders down (not extended) the dipstick is quite a bit over full -- last I checked when I had it together and the 3pt extended it was just at the full mark. The oil looks pretty fresh actually, can't comment on water, but I'd be surprised if there wasn't since this sat out in a parking lot for some time and then sat in my yard for half a year while I cleared some other projects out of the way.

This post was edited by pard on 02/10/2023 at 01:17 pm.

 

[Abbby]

Water goes to the bottom so sometimes oil can look good and can be water in it. Just pull all three plugs and drain transmission then you know what you have, If it all comes out really good you could use it over but you really do not know what you have. Spend the extra $$ and put in new.

 

[R Geiger]

I would pull the top plate off of the trans and take a look at the gears. The transmission is not hard to rebuild. See a lot of gears on ebay.

 

[pard]

Yup plan to just put in new oil. This thing sips oil compared to my Case, so I'm more than happy to part with a mere 20 or so quarts!

 

[pard]

I got this sinking feeling that the "quick clutch swap" is about to be a complete rebuild

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Have 8n trans with sherman step up for $400 in Great Meadows NJ 07838 for quick swap. Or standard 4 speed 8n trans for $200. Email is open.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Having the correct wiring is very important. It matters if you have the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or a 12V switcheroo job, and, if with the early Front Mount
Distributor or the later Angle (Side) Mount Distributor. Some wiring jobs are done incorrectly regardless if 6V or 12V and account for 99.98% of all non-starting
issues. Always use your manuals and documents.

Already mentioned, the first thing you want to do is check the hydraulic/trans oil for water contamination. The N's used the same sump for the trans and hydraulic
systems. NAA and later systems were different and used separate systems. Hydraulic oil should be a clear/honey-like consistency and color. A milky-white color
indicates the oil is contaminated with water. If your tractor has been setting outside uncovered chances are you have water in the system. This can be dangerous
because the water will freeze in sub-freezing temps. If you start up the tractor and try to move it without first getting the tractor warmed up and engine hot, you
risk cracking the aluminum pump base and thus damaging the system. You can pull the case side inspection covers to inspect the oil condition. A basic Leak Down Test
will tell you if the hyd cylinder, piston, & pump, are worn and need replacing. May as well do it all if you are going to pull trans cover and possibly split tractor.

For your trans issues, I found this in the Archives that may help you...

FORD 8N SIDE INSPECTION COVER & TOP COVER PULLED:

From the Archives... Here is a pic of the bad gear.... :

It is a happy day!! I have found the problem, and it was just where I thought it would be from the symptoms (major knocking in 2nd, pretty bad in reverse, a little in
3/4 and none in 1st). With the major noise being made at 2nd/Rev, I tyhought it might be the countershaft 2nd gear (since I could see the main shaft 2nd gear and it
looked fine. Split the tractor today and pulled the transmission. After I got the mainshaft pulled, I rotated the countershaft and there it was -- 2 missing teeth -
side-by-side. I ordered a whole used tranny, minus the case, from eBay on Sunday and it arrived in 3 boxes yesterday. So, I'm gonna replace both 2nd gears (main and
countershaft) and put it all back together. Just got to find a gear puller -- guess I'll head down to AutoZone and see what they have for loan.


Tim Daley(MI)

 

[pard]

Went ahead and pulled the top. Transmission looks to be in good shape. Still haven't drained the oil but the stuff I can see is real clean, no dirt or metal in it and no signs of even being used/experiencing heat. No rust spots inside the transmission. I'm sure there is water at the bottom, but I'll get that drained in due time, it's currently too low to the ground for me to get any of my oil pans under it.

When I rotate the spindle in the bell housing things move in the transmission but it feels really rough. The left side hub rotates and the right side does not (but rotating either hub will rotate the other in the opposite direction as you'd expect). Not sure if this is symptomatic of a differential issue or not.

In other news, the clutch was definitely problematic. Still haven't gotten it off (stuck bolt, waiting for the kroil to work its magic) but it's rusted in the disengaged position, so there's the problem with that at least.

 

[Eman85]

others that are familiar will respond but I think the input shaft can be easily removed with the bearing to see if that might be what you're feeling.