Hopefully enough. I glass bead everything. When I did the calipers I took them completely apart and put old used pistons in for "plugs" and taped them in so to keep powder out of the seal groove.
If I don't get to coat something right away after blasting sometimes I have to put the part(s) back in the cabinet and hit them again right before I coat them.... Not always. I've had stuff sit over the winter and be fine. and I had stuff that flash rusted in a couple of days between blasting and coating. I blow everything off just before coating, and sometimes I wipe it down with Eastwood's "pre" cleaner. On those calipers or anything else that "lives" in oil, brake fluid, etc I toss in the oven and bake until the parts quit smoking then I know I ve gotten the oil etc out of the pores.
If I don't get to coat something right away after blasting sometimes I have to put the part(s) back in the cabinet and hit them again right before I coat them.... Not always. I've had stuff sit over the winter and be fine. and I had stuff that flash rusted in a couple of days between blasting and coating. I blow everything off just before coating, and sometimes I wipe it down with Eastwood's "pre" cleaner. On those calipers or anything else that "lives" in oil, brake fluid, etc I toss in the oven and bake until the parts quit smoking then I know I ve gotten the oil etc out of the pores.
Well update on the powdercoating....
The $40 oven I got from CL still working somewhat. It's a free standing one with a stove top. I removed and scrapped the coils. It works ok for hanging parts from the racks with hooks made from cut up coat hangers. But if I have to use the racks like you would with cookie sheets and slide something in on the racks it's not ideal. It has an upper and a lower heating element. I've never seen the upper one lit up. I had a pair of 3/4 ton truck brake rotors in there. (I just coated the fins and the hubs) and I keep track of temps with an infrared temp gun .. the lower rotor was 50* hotter than the top one, the lower one being closer to the temp I have the timer set to.
And im tired of dropping my freshly coated parts because of having to bend over and hang them from the racks with needle nose while wearing welding gloves.
So for the price of an upper heating element from the local used appliance place I found a "built in" style double oven that even came still mounted in its kitchen cabinet.... So I can load and unload parts straight in and out without so much bending down. With the double configuration each compartment is smaller but overall I have more top to bottom space. It is narrower, as it's only a 24" oven vs the free standing one being 30.... I'm gonna see if I can squeeze both of them in the space I have since the first one does still work....
The $40 oven I got from CL still working somewhat. It's a free standing one with a stove top. I removed and scrapped the coils. It works ok for hanging parts from the racks with hooks made from cut up coat hangers. But if I have to use the racks like you would with cookie sheets and slide something in on the racks it's not ideal. It has an upper and a lower heating element. I've never seen the upper one lit up. I had a pair of 3/4 ton truck brake rotors in there. (I just coated the fins and the hubs) and I keep track of temps with an infrared temp gun .. the lower rotor was 50* hotter than the top one, the lower one being closer to the temp I have the timer set to.
And im tired of dropping my freshly coated parts because of having to bend over and hang them from the racks with needle nose while wearing welding gloves.
So for the price of an upper heating element from the local used appliance place I found a "built in" style double oven that even came still mounted in its kitchen cabinet.... So I can load and unload parts straight in and out without so much bending down. With the double configuration each compartment is smaller but overall I have more top to bottom space. It is narrower, as it's only a 24" oven vs the free standing one being 30.... I'm gonna see if I can squeeze both of them in the space I have since the first one does still work....
I do plan on coating some of the wheels on my garden tractors....
And on my truck project for the prices I'm seeing on parts both new and used i'm way ahead to take the time to clean and (either) paint or PC (depending on what the part is) vs just buying replacements....
I'm definitely interested in "testing" how durable my PC job will be....
I was looking for something else and I see (for example) I can buy new reproduction battery trays. I have 2 good ones here already. Why pay $100 for a new one????
Last edited:
urbancase
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southeast Indiana
Don if you looking to upgrade down the road, start looking at used industrial equipment dealers. I know the oven used on production line are vary big but you may find something from a job shop that does just a few at a time. I picked up my machine shop stuff like that.
heres my problem with things that have been powder coated is by the time you see a blister on the powder coat finish everything underneath is compleatly rotted away and instead of sanding and primuing something it has to be refabricated flat beds on pickups have to be the absolut worst car parts rot from the inside out , if it has bolt plate or somet thing it will rott out aleast the paint just gets a little rusty looking
showcrop
Well-known Member
Yes, that is the basic problem with powder coat. It provides protection for the rust, keeping it warm and keeping water trapped in behind it, so that it can keep eating your steel.
There's problems with every option. I've had paint fail too. There's more different types of paint than powder, and I'm not talking colors.
And there's "cheap" paint and expensive paint. I've had them all hold up and all have failed in some way. Lacquer, enamel, urethane, base/clear, epoxy and more.
And I've seen powder peel in sheets just like I've seen paint do. Almost every part I have coated in this project came from the factory as bare metal.
And my experience with powder so far seems to be that assembly line PC' d parts seem to hold up "less well" than parts coated after. In an assembly line setting I think they have too much volume to really clean up what's being coated.
Just like paint surface prep is everything.
These parts I'm coating, (so far) are going on a truck who's days of living in salt of winter are done. But it will get driven quite a bit the rest of the year. Like I said for the most part these parts were bare from the factory. Some like the door and hood hinges were originally painted.
If all powder blistered peeled and rusted like you guys said nobody would use it. It would go away.
I'm playing with something new to me here and I'm interested in how it's gonna hold up as well.
Alot of it is getting paint instead of powder. The frame, the front control arms, springs, rear end, anything not easily removed from the frame or won't fit in my repurposed kitchen oven is getting paint. And not cheap paint either. $500/gallon industrial 2 part epoxy paint and it's suggested 2 part epoxy primer underneath. So hopefully that holds up. I just painted the rear end with this stuff last night even.
And there's "cheap" paint and expensive paint. I've had them all hold up and all have failed in some way. Lacquer, enamel, urethane, base/clear, epoxy and more.
And I've seen powder peel in sheets just like I've seen paint do. Almost every part I have coated in this project came from the factory as bare metal.
And my experience with powder so far seems to be that assembly line PC' d parts seem to hold up "less well" than parts coated after. In an assembly line setting I think they have too much volume to really clean up what's being coated.
Just like paint surface prep is everything.
These parts I'm coating, (so far) are going on a truck who's days of living in salt of winter are done. But it will get driven quite a bit the rest of the year. Like I said for the most part these parts were bare from the factory. Some like the door and hood hinges were originally painted.
If all powder blistered peeled and rusted like you guys said nobody would use it. It would go away.
I'm playing with something new to me here and I'm interested in how it's gonna hold up as well.
Alot of it is getting paint instead of powder. The frame, the front control arms, springs, rear end, anything not easily removed from the frame or won't fit in my repurposed kitchen oven is getting paint. And not cheap paint either. $500/gallon industrial 2 part epoxy paint and it's suggested 2 part epoxy primer underneath. So hopefully that holds up. I just painted the rear end with this stuff last night even.
showcrop
Well-known Member
The whole point to factories using powder coat is to get out from under the VOCs laws and expense. This is mostly true of outfits like trailer manufacturers that aren't making many different things that some of which would need painting. There would be no point to powder coating if they were to prime them first.
But there is powder primer.... Which also gets baked on before coating with the final color.
But the surface still has to be clean even with that... No oils, mill scale rust, etc. can be present just like with paint.
With the sheer scale of production there's no way to sandblast everything right before PC.
Just like with paint you won't be happy with the results if prep isn't done right.
But the surface still has to be clean even with that... No oils, mill scale rust, etc. can be present just like with paint.
With the sheer scale of production there's no way to sandblast everything right before PC.
Just like with paint you won't be happy with the results if prep isn't done right.
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