powershift cable adjustment

I recently read on here about adjusting the powershift cable and I cannot find the thread. Hopefully someone can help me.

I have a 1070 powershift. The previous owner replaced the powershift cable and I replaced all the other cables. Anyway, when I press the inching pedal all the way down the tractor makes the sound like its in reverse and will roll in reverse if I let off the inching petal a little it stops making the reverse noise and stops moving.

Is this a cable adjustment and should I make the cable shorter or longer?

Thanks
gramps
 
(quoted from post at 12:22:29 05/09/12) I recently read on here about adjusting the powershift cable and I cannot find the thread. Hopefully someone can help me.

I have a 1070 powershift. The previous owner replaced the powershift cable and I replaced all the other cables. Anyway, when I press the inching pedal all the way down the tractor makes the sound like its in reverse and will roll in reverse if I let off the inching petal a little it stops making the reverse noise and stops moving.

Is this a cable adjustment and should I make the cable shorter or longer?

Thanks
gramps

The "reverse noise" that you describe is C4 activating and that is a normal part of the RPS 34 operation.

The backing up is caused by a drag on C2 clutch, the C2-C4 combo is the reverse pairing of clutches. I have observed this in otherwise normally operating RPS's and if you can shift into gear without much grinding I would not be concerned about it. A RPS with warped C2 plates will cause gear engagement grinding that will keep you from engaging the gear without a quick "stab" of the clutch pedal that seems to kinda freeze things just long enough to slip it into gear. We had a 970 that was that way from pulling it and starting out in very high gears under full throttle, It eventually corrected itself and now clutches properly, even after years of being a pullback tractor at the pulls.

The bottom pedal stop bolt should be set to stop the pedal just as the spool bottoms in the valve on the way out and the upper one we take out and leave it out so the spool can bottom against the valve plug, this assures that the modulating point and spring assembly is clear compressed and the spool lands are clear open to allow full flow to the clutch. This was an early directive from JI Case service department soon after the intro of the 70 series.

I obviously cannot drive your unit but it doesn't seem to me that you have any problem that cable adjustment can solve if any at all. Verify the proper cable adjustment and then use it.

mEl
 
Thanks Mel,

As I was driving it around today I dont think it is all that bad. I think it will be fine.


thanks again,
gramps
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:55 05/09/12) Thanks Mel,

As I was driving it around today I dont think it is all that bad. I think it will be fine.


thanks again,
gramps

My pleasure to be sure. If you are the mechanical type guy, a good 600 LB pressure gage installed in the flo divider where the dash gage feeds from and pressure checked with warm oil to verify 210 lbs or thereabouts will verify flo divider settings. Beyond that, clean oil and yearly filter changes making sure the bypass valves in the filters are in place. will go a long way toward ensuring long RPS life.

If you have any doubts about the C2 clutch releasing properly hydraulically, the same gage can be put in the C2 test port in the transmission control valve cover and you can watch modulation pressure as the pedal is depressed and released. Doing so will teach you how the system works and also assure proper spool travel.

mEl
 
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