Premium Voltage Regulator

Btzj02

Member
Does anyone have a good source for the following?
RVR210 Ford 2N 8N 9N Tractor External Regulator 8N-10505C 6 Volt (A Circuit).
Premium Made in USA.

I have a phone number I will try this week but it may no longer be available.

(I am getting tired of tapping on the cheap regulator with a wrench to get it to work.)
JB
 
(quoted from post at 08:47:03 03/28/21) Does anyone have a good source for the following?
RVR210 Ford 2N 8N 9N Tractor External Regulator 8N-10505C 6 Volt (A Circuit).
Premium Made in USA.

I have a phone number I will try this week but it may no longer be available.

(I am getting tired of tapping on the cheap regulator with a wrench to get it to work.)
JB

When I got tired of tapping on the regulator and the battery needed to be replaced, I replace it with a 12 volt one and alternator. Life is good with 12 volts!
 
When I got tired of tapping on the regulator and the battery needed to be replaced, I replace it with a 12 volt one and alternator. Life is good with 12 volts!

I am still resisting 12 volts! Dressing the points? Didn't think of that! May have to give that a try. Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 13:27:04 03/28/21) When I got tired of tapping on the regulator and the battery needed to be replaced, I replace it with a 12 volt one and alternator. Life is good with 12 volts!

I am still resisting 12 volts! Dressing the points? Didn't think of that! May have to give that a try. Thanks!
hat the cover off and watch the points and see what happens when you tap on the regulator. when the cutout coil closes you should have current flow. what i was seeing was that the points would not close until I tapped on it. if they are closing but no current flow then filling points might help.
 
Your wiring is incorrect. A 12V 8N switch over job deletes the GEN AND the Voltage Regulator. Front Mount DIS uses the OEM Ballast Resistor whether 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. The later Side Mount DIS did not use a Ballast Resistor. Front Mount with a 6V coil needs an external 1-OHM in-line resistor in the circuit for 12V. Omit the extra resistor by getting a 12V coil for your 12V.

FORD 8N TRACTOR WIRING DIAGRAMS:
PRIOR TO S/N 8N-263844:
MXLPPwsh.jpg
CfuUUP3h.jpg
rxNF128h.jpg
lz8RwfQh.jpg

CORRECT FORD 8N ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS - 6V & 12V:
TBC19a5h.jpg

FORD 8N TRACTOR w/FRONT MOUNT -12v CONVERSION:
noSTej6h.jpg

*PICTOGRAMS courtesy of JMOR

FORD OEM BALLAST RESISTOR -USED ONLY WITH FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
swlv82hh.jpg
FIK0D4Ih.jpg

HELP: The LH resistor Terminal Post connects to the COIL Stud Terminal Post as you face the back off dash. OEM Wiring is RED.

EXTERNAL 1-OHM CERAMIC RESISTOR - USED ON FRONT MOUNT AND
ONLY IF COIL IS 6V:
XRLi3vSh.jpg

FORD 8N-SERIES TRACTOR 12V CONVERSION; ANGLE MT. WIRING PICTOGRAM:
xQ2ojiTh.jpg



MAJOR CAUSES OF ACCIDENTS:
oP1anYxh.jpg

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
qI9P22kh.jpg

Tim Daley(MI)
 
I found the Regulator I was looking for. Information shared if requested. The cheaper regulator could not take the heat. Probably arcing. No dressing those points. You can compare!
mvphoto72861.jpg


mvphoto72862.jpg
 
Thanks for the info!

I don't mind spending more for quality. Looking it up it's MADE IN THE USA. With all the (often justified) bellyaching about offshore junk sometimes you do get what you pay for....

Happiness is buying an old $500 tractor and spending $1000s to keep it running.
Tru dat! :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:04 03/28/21) When I got tired of tapping on the regulator and the battery needed to be replaced, I replace it with a 12 volt one and alternator. Life is good with 12 volts!

I am still resisting 12 volts! Dressing the points? Didn't think of that! May have to give that a try. Thanks!

Get over that thought. I converted my '48 8N to 12V and haven't screwed with the electrical system in almost 3 years. Hold your nose and just do it, you won't be sorry.
 
Thanks for posting all these wiring diagrams! We just bought a 1952 8N, serial number 8N476795, still 6 volt, and it has what looks like a fairly new 3 terminal regulator. Where does the ground wire from the generator go? Presently there is a ring terminal attached to one of the regulator mounting bolts, which looks like it had a wire attached to it, but presently the wire is unattached and taped. So I didn t know if they purposely cut it and taped it for some reason, or if it just broke. According to the ammeter, it doesn't seem to charge, but rather it runs in the negative a bit when running. Why would there have to be a ground wire, isn't the generator naturally grounded? Thank you!
mvphoto88453.jpg
 
Kenneth999, You asked, Where does the ground wire from the generator go? The answer is, it goes to ground.
In your photo with the cut off wire, where does that wire go?
BTW, next time it would be best to start a new post rather than use one from last Spring.
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:30 02/25/22) Kenneth999, You asked, Where does the ground wire from the generator go? The answer is, it goes to ground.
In your photo with the cut off wire, where does that wire go?
BTW, next time it would be best to start a new post rather than use one from last Spring.

Actually, the ground wire from the generator (when used) typically runs from a ground stud on the generator to a dedicated ground screw on the regulator (if present) or to a regulator mounting screw.

The purpose of said ground wire is to keep the generator AND regulator at EXACTLY the same ground potential for better voltage regulation/system operation.
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:04 03/28/21) When I got tired of tapping on the regulator and the battery needed to be replaced, I replace it with a 12 volt one and alternator. Life is good with 12 volts!

I am still resisting 12 volts! Dressing the points? Didn't think of that! May have to give that a try. Thanks!

Go with the 12 V conversion, you won't be sorry and will wonder why you waited. No voltage regulator needed. Did this on my '41 8N and haven't' looked back.
 
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