Prepairing for moving snow

Hi guys. I have a '52 8N that I purchased this fall for work on a home I just bought this year. It has a somewhat long driveway that is about 200 yards long. We've already had our first snow here in Michigan (not enough to plow) but I had a few questions about getting my tractor ready to move snow.

First off, I have a 6' Land Pride back blade that I plan to be using for this.

When I purchased the tractor, it came with tire chains (that were not on the tires). I tried to put them on, but they seem too small. The tires that are on the tractor are 13.6's. Is it possible that the tire chains are for the correct size tires and not these oversized ones?

How can I tell if the tires are loaded? One of the rims has rust staining around the valve stem. I did change the axle shafts and hubs so I've had the tires off. I did not lay them down because I was doing the work by myself. Would I have been able to move these by myself if they were loaded?

If the tires are not loaded and I don't have the right size tire chains, will I be able to move much snow the way it is with the 13.6's?

Thanks guys!
 

"Would I have been able to move these by myself if they were loaded?"

unless you're a regular contestant in those strong man competitions, i'd say no.

two thoughts about checking - first, u could position the valve toward the bottom of the tire and then manually open it with whatever's handy - i normally use a key. or u could do the sound test. put your ear against the tire at the top and then, starting from the top and working your way down, tap the tire with something - a piece of wood, the butt of a plastic screwdriver handle, etc - and listen to the sound it makes. if your tires are loaded, when u get to the filled portion, the sound will change.

iirc, it's recommended that tires be filled up to the 10 oclock - two oclock position.
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:34 11/22/16) Hi guys. I have a '52 8N that I purchased this fall for work on a home I just bought this year. It has a somewhat long driveway that is about 200 yards long. We've already had our first snow here in Michigan (not enough to plow) but I had a few questions about getting my tractor ready to move snow.

First off, I have a 6' Land Pride back blade that I plan to be using for this.

When I purchased the tractor, it came with tire chains (that were not on the tires). I tried to put them on, but they seem too small. The tires that are on the tractor are 13.6's. Is it possible that the tire chains are for the correct size tires and not these oversized ones?


How can I tell if the tires are loaded? One of the rims has rust staining around the valve stem. I did change the axle shafts and hubs so I've had the tires off. I did not lay them down because I was doing the work by myself. Would I have been able to move these by myself if they were loaded?

If the tires are not loaded and I don't have the right size tire chains, will I be able to move much snow the way it is with the 13.6's?

Thanks guys!

If you had them off and on again withut help or a hoist of some sort they are not loaded. Even on the tractor it's pretty easy to tell if a tire is loaded - they slosh when you rock them ;-)

TOH
 
"One of the rims has rust staining around the valve stem."

Stem hole rust or weeping water from the stem hole isn't necessarily an indicator that tires are loaded.

Do you have Hat Box rims?
Water that repeatedly gets into the Hat channel through the wheel disk bolt holes can rust its way into the tube area and then find its way out through the stem hole or any other rim pin holes. That was the scenario with mine. Water can also get in and out through an oversized stem hole.

No one here has ever agreed or even acknowledged -- after my repeated mention and photos -- that sealing the disk mount bolts through the Hat Box channel with silicone might be a good idea, but that's what I've done and will continue to do.

I also sealed the stems with silicone and short pieces of hose that the stem retaining collar bears down on as well. Still water-tite after close to 3 years.
 

Thanks Tall T. That's why I asked. I thought it may be an indicator of a loaded tire that was/is leaking. I do not know how to tell what rims I have. If you could enlighten me I'd appreciate it.
 
Just buy some chain (and connectors) to lengthen the chain to fit your tire. Orobably were for the smaller original tire size. You may then lack a cross chain on the length side(but try out before buying.
Yes you will needs chains. after the first spin ,ice forms under the unchained tire and then your stuck.
BTDT
Charles Krammin
 
(quoted from post at 13:40:50 11/22/16)
Thanks Tall T. That's why I asked. I thought it may be an indicator of a loaded tire that was/is leaking. I do not know how to tell what rims I have. If you could enlighten me I'd appreciate it.

Here's a photo of one of my Hat Box rims before I lowered the disk in to sit on the channel. I put blue silicone under the bolt heads as you can see.

Many simply call them Hat rims and that's fine but I prefer Hat Box. I just recently bought a new Indiana Jones fedora and the box it came in has that shelf. So my tractor rims look like the box not the hat. :D

Cheers,
Terry

These rims are odd cause someone widened them to accept 13.6 X 28 tires. You can see the welded in band. I'm glad it was well done.
42766.jpg


On the nut side I cut thin tight fitting leather washers out of a tympany drum head and soaked them in oil. one washer under the center or disk and one under each flat washer. But silicone would be fine on the nut side as well probably.
42767.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:55:34 11/22/16)If the tires are not loaded and I don't have the right size tire chains, will I be able to move much snow the way it is with the 13.6's?

When I was using a 2N with loaded 11.2's, I was able to plow with a backblade without chains. Chains would have helped, but it wasn't too bad.

Then I replaced the loaded 11.2s with unloaded 12.4 turf tires. With those it was nearly impossible to plow without chains. I picked up a set after plowing the first snowfall.
 
Just go try it as is.
What do you have to lose?
But I'll betcha you be looking for weights
and some way to get those chains on before
the next snowfall. wink.
 
how much snow you can move "naked" depends on how flat your driveway is, and how well you can keep up with the accumulation , my jubilee has no weights on the rear or loaded tires, my farm lane is pretty flat as far as once im down off the hiway, i can plow up to 3 or 4 inches with it with few problems, so if you have the same conditions, and you can clean the driveway every 3 or 4 inches of accumulation or so you will probably be fine, you may need to clear snow more than once during a storm, but you wont be able to climb a hill, [ the jubilee is around 400 lbs heavier overall than an 8n, so there's not much difference in weight, just power ] now the hill coming down to the lane is now about 35 to 40 degrees or better thanks to the hiway dept, i cant climb it with the jubilee, but my farmall cub, with one set of wheel weights and a front blade will go right up, and push snow down the hill to clear the road , if you have had the wheel soff your tractor by yourself i doubt there loaded, loaded tires are very difficult to handle with one man
 
[b:1ab77fe1fb][i:1ab77fe1fb]

This is my 2N, that I use for plowing snow every yr......NO loaded tires!!! Just 11.2-28's with these duo link chains.!!
Corse these chains weigh right at 153lbs each side, so they add about 300lbs, to the tractor.
Works great for me....has not let me down yet!!


Even with approx. 1 ft deep snow...keeps on pulling, or pushing!!


GB[/i:1ab77fe1fb][/b:1ab77fe1fb]
 
The only time I was ever stuck was when I plowed without my chains on. I've been through snow that was over my feet sitting on the foot pegs,
I've been through snow so deep that I couldn't steer, but I have never been stuck plowing with my chains on. For the last seven or eight years
now I go out on Thanksgiving weekend and chain up the 9N with the back blade, and sleep in peace knowing that I can plow my way out no
matter what's waiting for me in the morning.

Happy Thanksgiving one and all!

Jerry
 
Tire chains are not easy to put on.
Mine always seem too small, even though I had them on last year.
If you haven't put tire chains on before, maybe you just need
a little help with them. Many of us can help with that too.

I have plowed with my 9N and back blade with loaded tires.
Works Ok as long as the snow's not too deep.
I prefer my 2N with the front blade that I've used for years.
It does have chains and works much better, except for the ride.
This year I sold the 2N, so I have a new plow tractor to use.
We'll see how that goes.

As to moving the tires, I'm 50 and I move loaded N tires
around by myself. 13.6's included. BUT, you will know it!
They are heavy! Rolling them is ok, but even turning them side-
to-side on cement while they're standing up is almost impossible.
If you didn't notice that, I doubt your tires are loaded.

If you have it setting where it is cold, you will also notice that
the tires sweat on the outside up to the point where the liquid
filling stops. Above that level they are filled with air.
 

You can easily plow a foot of dry snow without chains. As long as it is good and cold with no melting going on you will have traction. As soon as the snow gets sticky and has any tendency to pack you will spin and need chains.
 
Kenockee.

You mentioned rust around your stems.
I couldn't find this picture before but here is what I did with mine.
Reamed out a short piece of oil line that also fits up inside the recess of the brass collar. Applied silicone and tightened it down.

The just right, fat O ring or stacking a few O rings, or whatever would probably work well too. It was a rush job.:)
42774.jpg
 
BigDawg,

Incredible setup. . .
weight box/utility box
tractor and all!

So that's what a box blade is! :D
 

Thanks Tall T. I wonder if a thin grommet would work on the valve stem.

As far as the tire chains go, it is very possible that I am not putting them on correctly. I've never put chains on before. If anyone has tips, I would appreciate it!
 
(quoted from post at 05:58:18 11/23/16)
Thanks Tall T. I wonder if a thin grommet would work on the valve stem.

Ken,

There you go; good idea! Whatever gives you enough height that you don't run out of thread and whatever you can get the brass collar to contain so that you can compress it and have it stay put.

I can't remember how close to the rim surface the stem's collar thread goes. Not surprising . . . I'm so old I remember when "party" wasn't a verb.:)

T
 
Even with wheel weights, if you have hills you will probably need chains. Even with HD pie weights I still need chains to get thru a snowy season.
100_3418_zpsjfa69srg.jpg
 


53 Jubilee. Bought it because it had power steering add on. It moves snow and can pile it 10 feet high. Fortunately, but unfortunately for the neighbors, I now spend the winters in Arizona, so I didn't even put the blade on last year.

BD - WI
 
Greetings fellow Michigander!

I live in Western Michigan (Spring Lake) very close to the Lake. My paved driveway is over 1/4 mile long and I have used my 2N to plow occasionally. Most of my snow work is handled by a smaller tractor/snow blower combo. I have a FEL and have the tires loaded with chloride solution. I have a 7' back blade that does all the plow work and I do not have chains.

Depending on how much snow you get you will find that it piles up quickly along the sides and can rapidly exceed the height of the BB. Start as wide as you can so as the season wears on you still have room. I find that when it starts to really pile up I can go at it by backing into it and pushing it further back. Backing into it allows you to get up extra speed by keeping the blade up until the last moment then dropping it. Takes some practice but there's some skill involved and once you get the hang of it you will find it rewarding.

Our annual accumulation can easily be 120+" so I have a fair amount of experience with this. Chains would certainly help but I don't have them.

Good luck!
 
Hey Kenockee-

I plow my 800' driveway with loaded tires and no chains. If you decide to go the loaded route, I highly recommend that you have John at Great Lakes Tire set you up with Rimguard (beet juice) which won't rot out your rims!
 
Boy those machines look COLD! I like heat! My back blade will sit where it's at for the winter! The 8Ns too! Think I'll stick with the heated cab big tractor, heated cab and 8' blower and heated cab. Did I mention HEATED cab? :lol:

That being said the one time I tried using the 8N and rear blade with the hill in my long farm drive I wasn't too happy with the performance of the tractor with chains but no extra weight. A guy could do it if they had too but I wouldn't want it to be me!

Rick
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. My driveway is flat. About the only tricky thing I want to do this winter is push snow into my pond that I drained this year to have the cattails dug out. Combine that with an extremely dry summer and my pond is very very low. I didn't get a chance to try to get the chains on over the weekend. Maybe I'll give it a shot this coming weekend. By the time I get home from work it is dark now so I'll have to wait for the weekend.
 
I just finished putting my chains on. Now maybe it won't snow. If I wait to late to put the blade and chains on it seems to bring on a major storm. Now I get it ready on a sun shiny day. It lives in the garage in the background. I have a magnetic block heater, a battery maintainer and a can of ether. IT WILL START! :lol:

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