Prepping the 48 cub

Delig

Member
Prepping my cub. I’m first using oven cleaner and then lightly with pressure washer, staying away from gaskets and other sensitive areas. In this pict I’ve move it outside and have started cleaning. I need to buy more cleaner and will remove the wheels for a final cleaning.

This is the same tractor as in my profile image. The gas tank has been painted for a first coat. I started by stripping it, bonding some areas, primed with epoxy, followed by oil based enamel primer, then IH red - TSC brand (I’m on a tights budget).
 

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I
Prepping my cub. I’m first using oven cleaner and then lightly with pressure washer, staying away from gaskets and other sensitive areas. In this pict I’ve move it outside and have started cleaning. I need to buy more cleaner and will remove the wheels for a final cleaning.

This is the same tractor as in my profile image. The gas tank has been painted for a first coat. I started by stripping it, bonding some areas, primed with epoxy, followed by oil based enamel primer, then IH red - TSC brand (I’m on a tights budget).
Really like that. Pls keep up the progress reports.
 
Here is my tedder that I rebuilt four years ago. The bright red is good paint that I applied in 2020. The faded red is TSC paint that I applied the NEXT year. The job was a two step process using a parts unit as a base.
 
These were taken after tearing down and the first round of oven cleaner/ pressure washing. The mag, radiator, carb, air cleaner, seat, hydrologic control arms, and wheels are all now removed. It’s currently soaking in more oven cleaner for the day/night and I’ll pressure wash it again in the morning. I’m considering removing the steering column and floor. I’ll at least unbolt the steering column from the center to keep the edge for the bracket clean. Next will be hitting it with a wire wheel in the angle grinder.

Thoughts?
 

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John and showcrop, you both do beautiful work. This won’t be that great but for a first project, I’m pleased. If successful as I think it will be I might move on and do a farmall 140 next - the next size up.

My goal is to get the tractors moving again and being used.
 
After second pressure washing I’m certain the front end has been wrecked and repaired. Here are some shots of an epoxy buried under decades of grease. Both joints for front wheels have this epoxy and so does the fan mount - which explains how the fan gouged the old radiator.

For now I’ll keep cleaning and painting but I’ll start looking for used replacement parts.
Any suggestions on where to find decent used parts? I have the Portland Indiana antique tractor show and they often have a selection of parts.
 

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Black epoxy primer.
Tomorrow, I plan to put the wheels back on and primer where it is sitting on blocks. While that dries, I’ll prep other components for the epoxy primer. Then come back to this and start with sandable ‘grey’ primer. Then while the grey is drying I’ll “hopefully” do epoxy on the parts.
 

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Curious whats in photo one ,what is the brazed holding there ?
For each side of the front steering assembly, it’s the top of the support arm where it goes through the axle. The fan mount has also been brazed. It’s clearly been wrecked, hit something, etc…
 
My #2 cub had the same repair to the left steering knuckle. I ground off the weld and replaced the broken tapered bolt that goes through the knuckle into the shaft. Tip: There is a hole that goes all the way through the shaft so you can take a 1/8 inch punch and drive out the broken piece of the bolt. No need to drill it out.
 
This is painted and washed with grey sand-able primer. This was taken yesterday.
 

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the first coat of top coat. Taken today.
I’m tired of sanding and washing. I have one more round to catch some spots missed because of angles + the other side of parts (fenders, grill, etc…). Then likely one more for a second coat covering all major exposed areas.
 

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My #2 cub had the same repair to the left steering knuckle. I ground off the weld and replaced the broken tapered bolt that goes through the knuckle into the shaft. Tip: There is a hole that goes all the way through the shaft so you can take a 1/8 inch punch and drive out the broken piece of the bolt. No need to drill it out.
Thanks for that. For now, I think I’m going to leave them as is and address later. I have a soft deadline of next weekends Aug 8, 2025 Ohio Valley Antique machinery show to finish the paint and re-assemble.

It’s getting tight…
 
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