Pressure brake bleeder

[MarkB_MI]

I'm in the market for a pressure brake bleeder. Y'all have any recommendations?

I'm talking about the devices that pressurize the master cylinder reservoir, NOT the vacuum bleeders that suck fluid out the calipers. A pressure bleeder seems to be the best solution for one-person brake bleeding. Plus, if you use a scan tool for bleeding GM brakes, the procedure assumes you're using a pressure bleeder. The only real downside I see is that you need different adapters to fit the reservoirs of the different vehicles you work on. But I seldom work on non-GM vehicles, and any GM vehicle made in the last 30 years uses the same master cylinder cap, so that's not much of a problem for me.

I'm looking at this kit from Motive Products. It comes with only the GM adapter, but they sell other adapters to fit pretty much any vehicle. You pump it up by hand, while there are other products available that can be pressurized with an air compressor.

Motive Products late model GM power bleeder

 

[Hobo,NC]

I) GM adapters can be the most difficult one to seal, my cap set is adjustable at times I have to crank down on it hard.

2) some GM need 50psi pressure to bleed the rear. I find this on older GM trucks in the 90's

I have a BG chart that tells me the pressure needed its outdated so I set pressures at 20psi if that don't work I crank it up. You will need to look up the bleeding procedure for each vehicle. You can get by with the set up you posted, I would be using a lift I would want a long hose so I could pump on the ground if needed.

Lets go back to the poor sealing cap, as I type this I think about how I have fought this and my remedy to resolve this issue. I made some sealing washers like in your link that go in the cap, that helped but still a fight. My theory was to add a thicker sealing washer than provided, this helped but not a fix : (. My machine came with a bag of thick plugs that have a lip on them what they were for I dunno I discovered they fit in the throat of the master. You fit them in the throat of the master the lip fits over the top sealing surface of the master the adapter seals again this lip problem solved.

You biggest fight will be to get a good seal at the cap. I suck out as much old fluid as I can then add back to about 3/4 full. As I add pressure watch the fluid level if its rising I have a leak : ( When you are done the system/tool gauge should hold pressure if not you have a leak.

I don't have sealing issues with Ford are Toyota install the adapter and roll but GM and there poor quality parts it can be a fight.

 

[JOCCO]

There is a boat load of them today on the market. Should work ok.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I) GM adapters can be the most difficult one to seal, my cap set is adjustable at times I have to crank down on it hard.

2) some GM need 50psi pressure to bleed the rear. I find this on older GM trucks in the 90's

I have a BG chart that tells me the pressure needed its outdated so I set pressures at 20psi if that don't work I crank it up. You will need to look up the bleeding procedure for each vehicle. You can get by with the set up you posted, I would be using a lift I would want a long hose so I could pump on the ground if needed.

Lets go back to the poor sealing cap, as I type this I think about how I have fought this and my remedy to resolve this issue. I made some sealing washers like in your link that go in the cap, that helped but still a fight. My theory was to add a thicker sealing washer than provided, this helped but not a fix : (. My machine came with a bag of thick plugs that have a lip on them what they were for I dunno I discovered they fit in the throat of the master. You fit them in the throat of the master the lip fits over the top sealing surface of the master the adapter seals again this lip problem solved.

You biggest fight will be to get a good seal at the cap. I suck out as much old fluid as I can then add back to about 3/4 full. As I add pressure watch the fluid level if its rising I have a leak : ( When you are done the system/tool gauge should hold pressure if not you have a leak.

I don't have sealing issues with Ford are Toyota install the adapter and roll but GM and there poor quality parts it can be a fight.

Thanks, Hobo. There's a lot of good info in your post.

I'm leaning towards the Motive bleeder, but they sell an upgraded version that features an aluminum adapter instead of the stock plastic one. It's an extra 30 bucks but folks seem to think it's worth the extra money.

 

[Gold 871]

I bought the Motive pressure bleeder and it has worked well. I just purchase the different adapters as I need them
I have used it on Volkswagen, GMC , and Lincoln

 

[Duner Wi]

If link works I have this one which seems to mimick Motive. I did rework mine so I do not need to pump by hand .Seems good for the price. Gotta be easier to use ones available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156322694594

 

[MarkB_MI]

If link works I have this one which seems to mimick Motive. I did rework mine so I do not need to pump by hand .Seems good for the price. Gotta be easier to use ones available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156322694594

At that price, you can hardly go wrong.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Thanks everyone. I ordered the Motive kit with the aluminum GM master cylinder adapter. It turns out they're a Michigan company, so I should have it by the time all my brake parts arrive this weekend.

Speaking of weekends, being retired I can sympathize with these folks:

 

[Hobo,NC]

Thanks everyone. I ordered the Motive kit with the aluminum GM master cylinder adapter. It turns out they're a Michigan company, so I should have it by the time all my brake parts arrive this weekend.

Speaking of weekends, being retired I can sympathize with these folks:

Cool.

 

[Brownie450]

Working on my 1989 F-150 rear brake bleeders & can't get them loose.
Don't like to use heat to get them loose, but not much choice.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Jim

 

[Hobo,NC]

Working on my 1989 F-150 rear brake bleeders & can't get them loose.
Don't like to use heat to get them loose, but not much choice.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Jim

If you don't have the tools to get the bleeder red hot quick you probably are not gonna get'er done. Heat at the bleeder is not gonna hurt the wheel cylinder. Heat'er up apply a crayon are candle wax and cross yer fingers. Worst case put new wheel cylinders on it.

As always there is more to the story ?

 

[Harold Hubbard]

If you don't have the tools to get the bleeder red hot quick you probably are not gonna get'er done. Heat at the bleeder is not gonna hurt the wheel cylinder. Heat'er up apply a crayon are candle wax and cross yer fingers. Worst case put new wheel cylinders on it.

As always there is more to the story ?

I go into any brake job assuming everything will have to be replaced. Anything that gets saved is a bonus. If the bleeders won’t come loose, the wheel cylinder gets replaced. I have toasted the internal seals of a cylinder trying tho heat the bleeder. I don’t have the patience or the time to be fooling around with that stuff.

 

[Duner Wi]

I use impact wrench with good results. Most of my impacts will just twist bleeders off but I have one I can set to just tick tick .

 

[miangus]

I have got them pretty hot and never had a seal failure. I use a small flame and just heat the bleeder then spray with PB Blaster. I usually do it a couple of times.

 

[Brownie450]

Thanks for all the tips, guys. The whole story is the left
line going to the wheel cyl rusted through & the bleeders
are rusted tight. I tried bleeding by loosening the new
line at the WC, but that had no results.
Jim