Primer dry-time

[WI Dave]

I'm using Case/IH primer and 2150 red. If I prime tonight after work, about 9:30, will I be able to paint 12 hours later, tomorrow morning? The label on the can is gone, otherwise I'd just look there.

 

[Stephen Newell]

I can't find out what the primer is. My instincts leads me to think it is an alkyd primer so I would not topcoat it in 12 hours. An alkyd primer needs 24 hours even in this heat.

 

[kevinj54]

Read the can..........I think you have to re-coat within 3 hours or wait over 24 hours with the case paint.

 

[WI Dave]

(quoted from post at 01:06:05 07/26/12)
[b:9feaac1efb]Read the can[/b:9feaac1efb]..........I think you have to re-coat within 3 hours or wait over 24 hours with the case paint.

:roll:

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 19:27:53 07/25/12)

(quoted from post at 01:06:05 07/26/12)
[b:12f914b46f]Read the can[/b:12f914b46f]..........I think you have to re-coat within 3 hours or wait over 24 hours with the case paint.

:roll:

Happens to all of us, I gave advice for gas yesterday when the poster clearly said diesel

 

[kevinj54]

(quoted from post at 23:27:53 07/25/12)

(quoted from post at 01:06:05 07/26/12)
[b:2a73369830]Read the can[/b:2a73369830]..........I think you have to re-coat within 3 hours or wait over 24 hours with the case paint.

:roll:

OOPS just reread his post.

The dealer will probably read a label for ya!!!!

I do not have any left or I could read it for you.

 

[gene nehring]

3hr window

 

[WI Dave]

I primed it last night. Went to the dealer today before work and checked out a new can: topcoat within 3 hours or after 48 hours.

 

[GordoSD]

I'd go with after 48 hours. I used that primer one time about 10 years ago and it was still soft three weeks later.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Is there an outside window for painting after the primer goes on, can you top coat it a week later?

Kurt

 

[sflem849]

(quoted from post at 20:42:43 07/26/12) I'd go with after 48 hours. I used that primer one time about 10 years ago and it was still soft three weeks later.

I used it back in 2007 and was really happy with it. I primed on Friday night and painted on Monday because I did it at work.

 

[Stephen Newell]

I never could find out what type of primer this thread was about. When you use any new paint you should get a specification sheet from the paint supplier. It has the instructions that should be on the can. They don't put much instructions on paint anymore to make room for hazard warnings in three languages. I don't care for alkyd primers but with that type of primer you can paint over it in 24 hours or next year. There is no recoat window. I prefer to use epoxy primers. The recoat window varies from product to product but I think most you should topcoat within 72 hours. After 72 hours it hardens up so much you have to go over it and roughen it up with sandpaper to get good adhesion. Its a lot of work and Epoxy primers don't sand very well so it is usually easier just to put another coat of epoxy primer on if you exceed the recoat window.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Thanks. Epoxy primer is what I plan to use. I would like to get a coat on there as I clean the parts up to prevent oxidation, with the plan to top coat later. If I can just shoot another coat of epoxy on there before the topcoat without having to sand/prep again, I'll be a happy guy.

Kurt

 

[sflem849]

(quoted from post at 04:08:47 08/06/12) I never could find out what type of primer this thread was about. When you use any new paint you should get a specification sheet from the paint supplier. It has the instructions that should be on the can. They don't put much instructions on paint anymore to make room for hazard warnings in three languages. I don't care for alkyd primers but with that type of primer you can paint over it in 24 hours or next year. There is no recoat window. I prefer to use epoxy primers. The recoat window varies from product to product but I think most you should topcoat within 72 hours. After 72 hours it hardens up so much you have to go over it and roughen it up with sandpaper to get good adhesion. Its a lot of work and Epoxy primers don't sand very well so it is usually easier just to put another coat of epoxy primer on if you exceed the recoat window.

(quoted from post at 09:40:41 07/25/12) [b:d87399c715]I'm using Case/IH primer and 2150 red. [/b:d87399c715]If I prime tonight after work, about 9:30, will I be able to paint 12 hours later, tomorrow morning? The label on the can is gone, otherwise I'd just look there.

 

[sflem849]

(quoted from post at 04:49:59 08/06/12) Thanks. Epoxy primer is what I plan to use. I would like to get a coat on there as I clean the parts up to prevent oxidation, with the plan to top coat later. If I can just shoot another coat of epoxy on there before the topcoat without having to sand/prep again, I'll be a happy guy.

Kurt

Some epoxy primers will let you recoat with epoxy without scuffing. I was going to follow the same plan your intend on following.

 

[GordoSD]

I was going to tell you to load up your block sander with some 320 wet or dry paper. Do a little dry sanding. If you get "balls" of primer on your block, instead if "dust" then it isn't dry.
You really should wet block sand everything prior to paint for a really pro finish.