problem with 730d

dallasd

New User
i need alittle help from you guys that know.i just tore a 730 down and completely rebuilt it . i cranked it up it runs fine but the flywheel rubs the timing gear houseing when the clutch is engaged.the flywheel has .012 endplay.i put everything back in that i took out.what are some things that could be wrong.im thinking some kind of spacer on one end of the crank.the old man i bought it from said the motor had been tore down probaly 20yrs ago.did he leave something out.thanks for comments
 
When I rebuilt mine I found that someone had put a big washer on the crankshaft behind the flywheel to space it out. For some reason the backside of the flywheel had been worn almost an 1/8 inch. So when I was rebuilding I put it back the same way I found it. Just cut 50 acres of hay with it, It did great.
a40163.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:47 05/15/11) When I rebuilt mine I found that someone had put a big washer on the crankshaft behind the flywheel to space it out. For some reason the backside of the flywheel had been worn almost an 1/8 inch. So when I was rebuilding I put it back the same way I found it. Just cut 50 acres of hay with it, It did great.
a40163.jpg

Nice. A Standard chassis is way better too.
 

My 730D also had the flywheel hitting the case. I was missing the tin shield between the starter and the cover. When I got the shield, I couldn't install it because the flywheel was so close.
Was there a thrust washer on each side of the LH main bearing? The spec for end play is .005" to .010"; .012" is a little much but not too bad. My inner thrust washer was in place, but it came with a taper-lock flywheel that must have issues. I ended up putting a special made 3/16" thick washer to space out the flywheel and still give my proper end play. I ended up with .006". Remember that you still have to have a drive pin that engages the oil slinger notch. The machinist that made my washer also made me a special longer drive pin. Been working fine for a couple of years now.
 
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