Problems with a 9N

I have a 9n. Been having problems with it starting. Also it was over charging. Found out the charging problem was a messed up cutout relay. So I'm getting that fixed. Now we are going to work on the coil. Is there a proper way to test the coil? Also gonna replace dist cap points and the whole shabang. I have been in Arizona and will be back in August and plan an assault on all my tractors. Trying to relay info to my dad to work on them and if we need parts have them for when i get home. Thanks in advance.
 
"Also it was over charging. Found out the charging problem was a messed up cutout relay."

VEDDY interestink!
 
Fuller.......would you believe YOU are the charging problem, NOT yer 2-terminal roundcan cut-out. YOU control the charging on yer 11-amp 1-terminal 3rd brush genny by adjusting the charging brush on the endplate of yer genny. You doubt? go look. Unlike 12V alternators, 6V gennys do NOT charge at idle. With yer tractor runnin' about 1/3-throttle, adjust yer 3rd brush for about 3-5amps on yer ammeter (+). Simple, eh?

How do you check yer squarecan ignition coil? With my calibrated sparkie tester. Take enny ol'sparkie and bend the side electrode out fer full 3/16" gap. Clamp yer tester metal shell to convenient bracket. Plug enny sparkie wire to top of tester and with ignition ON, crank yer engine. Do the sparkies jump the 3/16" gap with blue-snot authority? ...or... are they weak yellowish-orangish imitations? ...or... NO sparkies at all??? Simple, eh?

As a general rule, the 4-nipple capple does NOT need replacing.

Howsomevers: the points (0.015") often need polishing to remove invisible corrosion. I use a $1-bill, you can use a torn piece of heavy brown grocery sack. Just clamp the bill between the points and pull. Simple, eh?

Biggest cause of weak sparkies is yer weak sister ignition switch. ($15, cheap) .......Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
i agree with the others.. the overcharging was you not turning down the 3rd brush. cutout had nothing to do with it.

ford gave you a great device to test a coil with.. it's called a distribuitor.

make sure you have power thrut he ballast resistor to the coil top, points are gapped at .015 on all lobes, and open and close electrically, lube the cam rubbing block, not excessively though... and make sure the advance mechanism is free and working.

soundguy
 
I totally agree with Dell.Prove your ignition switch is OK.I just dealt with a 9n that was running erractically.Sometimes it would run fine,sometimes it would stumble a little,sometimes it would only run if I kept the choke on.Everyone said the same thing.Prove you have fuel flow by removing the plug on the bottom of the carb.If that's OK,you probably have some sort of electrical problem rather than a carb problem.They said motor running better with choke on can be a sign of a weak spark.When I played with my ignition switch I noticed that the smallest rotation from the on position caused the ignition to turn off.I figured the contacts were barely connected in the on position.I was right. Ignition switch replaced,motor runs perfectly.Thank you all on Forum.I was ready to dive into an expensive carb rebuild or replacement project.
 
I forgot to mention that it is a 12 volt conversion. I know it isn't a factory system. The cutout below the battery has a coil wrapped with wire and the one wire was burn through. This "Cutout" also has a direct ground. So maybe it isn't a cut out. I'm still not sure. I know its not the genny cause it has the alternator. And it has a good and tight fan belt. Sorry for the mis information.
 
hey Fuller........12V, eh? I flunked mind reading, just ask my ex-wife.

I know 8-ways to convert to 12V and they all work, everytime. Dunno about yer "Bubba" conversion.

Why does a shorted wire with burned insulation excite you? I would expect enny directly grounded wire to MELT the insulation. ......respectfully, Dell the mindless
 
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