Proper implement hookup

[pixer]

I can keep my 8n in good running condition but never having farme I don?t know how to properly hook up implements. I have my 6ftrear blade on and have the top link hooked to the pin that?s attached to the large spring. I believe that?s ok . Under this pin their are two places to attach things cast into and part of the rear end, the driver side hole about an inch in diameter while the passenger side attachment is slightly smaller about 7/8 ? in diameter. What are these cast eyes used for and why the different sizes. Thanks in advance.

 

[Royse]

These holes for the long pin?

 

[showcrop]

When it comes time to actually go hook it up, the correct method is to back squarely up to the implement so that the ball at the end of the left lift arm goes onto the left pin of the implement. You then, still in the seat, adjust the right arm for proper height and back up or pull ahead to nudge the right ball onto the pin of the implement. Now you dismount and insert the Lynch pins to hold the two lift arms on, and then attach the PTO shaft if the implement has one. Finally you attach the top link and adjust for correct length. If you would like to see this done, search on U-tube for Ford Jubilee tractor and an original Ford advertising video should come up that shows this procedure.

 

[Tall T]

I watched that Jubilee video a ton while I was flush with the acquisition of my old new tractor. Kid with new toy syndrome.

One part I found interesting and find handy about hooking up was that the farmer rocks the tractor by grabbing a tire lug, to get a stubborn eyeball onto the pin.

Jubilee Video

 

[Kirk-NJ]

As Royse said the long pin. Even after the long pin was gone the housing case carried the ears with the holes thru the Jub/NAA. The ears were a good support for the horseshoe style swinging drawbar. I see a lot of guys hang there limiter chains for there mowers off them.

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[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 00:44:48 12/29/17) I watched that Jubilee video a ton while I was flush with the acquisition of my old new tractor. Kid with new toy syndrome.

One part I found interesting and find handy about hooking up was that the farmer rocks the tractor by grabbing a tire lug, to get a stubborn eyeball onto the pin.

Jubilee Video

T, I make it a practice most of the time to see if I can snag the left pin with the ball from the tractor seat. I don't spend a lot of time on it, but it really makes the mounting easier because it puts you in the correct position before dismounting.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Drivers Side? Passenger Side? No such thing, seat is central. Learn that tractor nomenclature dictates when one is seated on the seat, left side is your LH and right side is your RH. Everything is based on that including part locations. Being a newbie, and if planning on being an N-Owner for a long while yet to come, I'd suggest you get as many manuals as you can starting with a copy of the original 8N Operator's Manual, an I&T F-04 manual, and a 39-53 MPC. You can find original Ford-Ferguson and Dearborn Implement manuals on the popular Internet auction sites all the time. On the other Ford N-Series Tractor club site there is a whole library of original manual scans for FREE download. Then you will know the correct terminology and the proper way to safely use the implement and tractor. The 3-point Lift System consists of the two lower links, the Lift Arms, and one Top Link attachment at the rocker behind the seat on top of the diffy case. Most implements connect by first hitching the left implement pin into the left lift arm ball socket and securing with a Linch Pin. Next, connect the RH implement pin into the RH lift arm ball socket. You may need to use the leveling crank to adjust up or down to get it aligned. The last step is to connect the top link to the implement then connect to the tractor top rocker tree. Early, 9N thru early 8N rockers only had one connection point, later 8N trees had 3 positions. Always use the bottommost hole pattern. The top is only for use with certain implements like cultivators. You may have to get on the tractor and start it up then back up or move forward to get the top link connected. Never leave the tractor running and hop off -shut off engine when you get off. An original Plow Manual is a good starting point to learn the terminology. Every 8N Operator's Manual has a chapter, usually the last one, on plowing too. It covers everything from hitching it up to making settings and adjustments, and actual field use. Get some manuals and read religiously like your Bible.

FORD 9N & 2N OWNER ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

FORD 8N OWNER ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Bruce (VA)]

As others have said, the holes are for the long pin.

In addition to what showcrop said about hooking up implements, it helps to have the implement a foot or so off the ground. Use cinderblocks or pallets.

Lower the lift arms and turn the pto OFF before you get behind the tractor.
75 Tips

 

[allenlane]

Thanks for posting that video T. That Jubilee was a nice tractor compared to my bare bones 2N from 8 yrs earlier. Lot's of options. I can't believe you sold yours Lawson ! One thing I noticed from the video is consistently how fast those guys were running, maybe thanks to their Exacto Speed Throttle !

 

[Caryc]

Or you can order a set of Pat's Quick Hitches. I really like them. With them on your lift arms you just back up to your implement until the bumper on the hitch (indicated by the arrow) hits one of the pins, then just nudge it in reverse and it will nudge the implement until both pins are up against the bumpers.

Then just raise your lift arms and the pins will lock into the quick hitches. In the other photo you can see the spreader bar that comes with the hitches. The ends of it fit into holes in the hitches and it is adjustable. Just adjust the spread so that both bumpers are at the right distance apart to meet up with the pins on your implement. Of course, you remove the spreader bar once you implement is hooked up. Be aware that these quick hitches add about 4" to the length of your lift arms.

If you decide to order a set of quick hitches be sure to specify that you need the longer pins to hook up a set of sway bars like you see in the picture.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Best to measure the old implements to make sure the quick hitch will work. The geometry on some of them won't work w/ the quick hitch.
75 Tips

 

[pixer]

Well Tim you took me to school,I?m not a new you in one sense having owned 3 n,s I have run them in paradesand tractor runs but I am a newbie in the farming aspect. As far as left or right over drivers side passenger side, you don?t have to explain looking T the tractor from front or back ,it may be confusing in a foreign country. Tall thanks for the video very helpful . Rouse nice pic, the circled holes for the long pin is what I was referring to. The circled hole or eye on the drivers side on my tractor is larger than the circled hole on The passenger side is there a reason for this? Also thank to all other for the positive feedback pixer

 

[Leroy]

That long pin is made with the head end bigger to keep you from trying to put it in backward as only supposed to go in one way and it bends in the middle. It is used for the rear mount manure loader.

 

[Tall T]

Pixer,

About those two cast eyelets . . .
As Kirk showed, height limiter chains can be hung from them
which are especially useful if you have slow hydraulic leak down especially even while the pump is running.
I made some chains for my rotary cutter to hang from and I hook them to big shackles I put in those eyelets.

The chains go down to the lower link pins

I also use one of those shackles to hang my rear blade adjusting wrench in. It doesn't fall out.

Exotic wrench hanger

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 00:02:58 12/30/17) Or you can order a set of Pat's Quick Hitches. I really like them. With them on your lift arms you just back up to your implement until the bumper on the hitch (indicated by the arrow) hits one of the pins, then just nudge it in reverse and it will nudge the implement until both pins are up against the bumpers.

Then just raise your lift arms and the pins will lock into the quick hitches. In the other photo you can see the spreader bar that comes with the hitches. The ends of it fit into holes in the hitches and it is adjustable. Just adjust the spread so that both bumpers are at the right distance apart to meet up with the pins on your implement. Of course, you remove the spreader bar once you implement is hooked up. Be aware that these quick hitches add about 4" to the length of your lift arms.

If you decide to order a set of quick hitches be sure to specify that you need the longer pins to hook up a set of sway bars like you see in the picture.

Using the Pats system there is no reason to ever remove the linchpin drill a hole in it and install a counterpin. You will never loose one for sure BTDT did not like the outcome... Get a handful of washers and make enoufh for every piece of equipment you have along with some extras...

I do like my Pats system one thang you left out you probably will need a longer top link to go with the Pats...

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 20:08:55 12/29/17)

(quoted from post at 00:02:58 12/30/17) Or you can order a set of Pat's Quick Hitches. I really like them. With them on your lift arms you just back up to your implement until the bumper on the hitch (indicated by the arrow) hits one of the pins, then just nudge it in reverse and it will nudge the implement until both pins are up against the bumpers.

Then just raise your lift arms and the pins will lock into the quick hitches. In the other photo you can see the spreader bar that comes with the hitches. The ends of it fit into holes in the hitches and it is adjustable. Just adjust the spread so that both bumpers are at the right distance apart to meet up with the pins on your implement. Of course, you remove the spreader bar once you implement is hooked up. Be aware that these quick hitches add about 4" to the length of your lift arms.

If you decide to order a set of quick hitches be sure to specify that you need the longer pins to hook up a set of sway bars like you see in the picture.

Using the Pats system there is no reason to ever remove the linchpin drill a hole in it and install a counterpin. You will never loose one for sure BTDT did not like the outcome... Get a handful of washers and make enoufh for every piece of equipment you have along with some extras...

I do like my Pats system one thang you left out you probably will need a longer top link to go with the Pats...

Fortunately, I had two sizes of top links so I had no problem.

 

[wellmax99]

On my old Ferguson tractor those two cast holes are for a long pin that folds in the middle,
This pin holds the top connection for your stay bars for your cross bar hitch support,

These old tractors did not come with under belly hitches so there had to be a way to prevent the cross bar hitch from going up when your load pushed the tractor on a down hill pull,
Lift arms flying up could ruin or damage the lift system,

 

[Kirk-NJ]

The hole is bigger on the one side because the pins is bigger on that side. Above is the ford long pin. Below is the ferguson long pin which, as Maxwell said, it is hinged in the middle. Making it easier to get the ferguson pin in without having to take a fender off.

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