Protecting parts?

[kswillie]

I have my Dad’s 47 pick-up that intend to fix-up to use as my ride to town once in a while and Sunday driver. I’m doing a frame off. I plain to have the cab, fenders, bed and frame blasted. My question is what is the best thing to have the parts blasted with? And once I get home with the bare metal parts what is the best way to protect them? I am not a great painter but can do a fair job with a gun. And I do have a low cost gun and good air. I would like to take the parts directly to my body and paint man but I know I will not be able to afford to do this all at once. Story is, if I have to have the fenders or cab set around for a few months before I can take them for body and paint what do I put on them? Thank you for any help.

 

[CNKS]

If your sand blaster is not careful the sheet metal is going to be warped. Much safer to strip and/or sand it off along with a lot of work -- but on a vehicle that old it is well worth it. Do a Google search for Picklex 20. It is a phosphoric acid + zinc compound that you squirt on and move around with a brush. It will protect bare metal for months, but you must have it inside and dry. It does not need to be washed off, which just causes more rust. Scuff or sand most of the residue off before painting. Somewhat expensive, but a quart goes a long way. NOTE -- do not go to a hardware store and by straight phosphoric acid. Picklex is made for the purpose, Bulk H3PO4 is not.

 

[GordoSD]

Note he said "47" pickup. The fenders and sheet metal on that truck are 4 times the thickness of todays cars. Not to worry, blast away.
Perhaps go lightly on the very center of the cab roof.
Use PPG epoxy primer on the bare metal. It is "waterproof" unlike regular hi build primers.

 

[SWMO]

Is there anyone in your area that does bead blasting. This is one of the safest ways to blast metal, as it doesn't warp the sheet metal and doesn't destroy chrome or glass. Most shops that do the blasting also will put a coat of epoxy primer on for you.

 

[CNKS]

Probably true. But with my small blaster I was able to flatten the small ridge on top of the hood of my 460, which is proabably thicker than the sheet metal on his pickup. As to epoxy, I agree, but there is only a 3-7 day or so window to topcoat or you have to scuff and do it again. My opinion is that on small parts, or maybe large parts also, is that if I want to take the time to prepare for epoxy, then I also have time to put the topcoat on. But, Picklex is so easy to use that I would go that route, if necessary. That said, in SW Kansas, I just don't get rust, so I take to bare metal and let them sit until I'm ready. The rust that does appear, if any is negligible and easy to remove. Can't do that in a humid climate.

 

[Wilks54]

(quoted from post at 08:53:05 10/03/11) Most shops that do the blasting also will put a coat of epoxy primer on for you.

This will be your best option. Make sure the primer used matches the paint you will want to use.

 

[Red Ford]

When you say "blast away", maybe that would be ok with with the average barely usable hobby grade equipment and some care. A commercial blaster using ordinary pressures and blast media can easily warp the sheet metal that truck is made of. Even if the truck was made of metal "4 times the thickness of todays cars" (which it isn't) the metal can easily be warped by blasting. If this job is being done commercially, only a careful and experienced blaster can do it without causing damage.

 

[Rod (NH)]

I'll second the <a href="http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9021/picklex205ms.gif">Picklex 20</a>. I have had excellent luck with it.

 

[GordoSD]

Let's get down to basics. I miced a bare fender of a 47 Ford tudoe sedan. It was 058.
Now I just read where Ford reduced the thickness of their fenders again in 2010, and buyers say they can bend them with their pinky finger. Ford calls it "smart steel" as it drums in and returns to original shape Truth is you could put a hell of a dent in it by throwing an apple at it.
How about a body guy measuring a new fender thickness from any maker and post the results?

 

[ASEguy]

I've used Picklex on one project and it worked great. I'd go with it again.

 

[johndeerefan]

You can have your body panels acid dipped. This is the safest way to keep it from warping. Believe me, it will warp by sandblasting and cause you countless hours of applying bondo and block sanding. Then, have them use phosphoric acid to clean it with and then apply a good coat of epoxy primer.

You will have to scuff the epoxy primer up before painting of primering on top of it if it is longer than 72 hours. I usually apply sandable filler primer 24 hours after the epoxy to keep from having to scuff it all.

 

[GordoSD]

I don't imagine too many guys are doing a topcoat on their tinwork right over the epoxy primer. I know I always do some filler, and hi build primer work over the epoxy. Not on rough cast though.

 

[Red Ford]

You said "4 times". I"ll go with your .058" number. I have measured that ballpark of body metal thickness on old cars. Do you realize that four times .0145" is .058"? No question that body metal has gotten thinner, but only 15 thousandths, I don"t think so.

And don"t miss my point, even if the body was twice thye .058" thickness, blasting with ordinarily equipment, using ordinarily media, can easily warp 1/8" metal. that being the case it isn"t safe to just "blast away" as you suggested.