soupkid

Member
How long/short do you cut your PTO shafts ?
I generally cut them just enough the you can take it off in the shortest/closed position.
 
Short enough to take off when the implement is raised level such that the implement's connection point is level/in-line with the tractor's PTO. I've fixed both a bush-hog and woodchipper for the same guy after he cut it short enough to install with them resting on the ground, but didn't think about how it will collapse more with the hitch raised. Similarly with some equipment with offset drivelines (some old square balers and haybines): When you turn one direction it will extend, but when you turn the other direction it will collapse. Make sure you find the worst-case collapsed scenario. And make sure your distance from drawbar hole to end of PTO is correct when cutting to length for pull-type implements - else it might not be correct for all tractors.

As long as you have reasonable overlap, it's better to err on the side of being a little short. The axial force that can be imparted when it collapses and dead-ends as you raise the hitch or turn are incredible- it'll blow apart any gearbox/bearing/mount that it comes against. And make sure the shaft collapses & extends freely and smoothly for its full stroke.
 
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Short enough to take off when the implement is raised level such that the implement's connection point is level/in-line with the tractor's PTO. stroke.
I agree tractor & implement gearbox pto shafts are at their nearest dimensions when those shafts are directly in line with one another not when implement is in fully raised or fully lowered positions.
 
Keep them from hitting when straight across. But as long as I safely can.

Many 3 point items if I move from tractor to tractor they have such short shafts I set for the ‘closest’ tractor and then they barely are long enough for the other tractor, so I keep as long as I can.

I also use some stuff on both cat 1 and cat 2 tractors, making this worse.
 
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