pto shaft

[cory eneks]

just woundering how hard it is to replace a broke pto shaft on a 48 8n ford,,,,and should all the bearings be replaced???????thanks

 

[Bruce (VA)]

It depends on where it's broken. If you can drain the fluid, remove the 4 bolts & pull it out, then it's an easy job.

If you can't pill it out, then the job just became a PITA because you need to cut the shaft.

Just replace the entire shaft & bearings as a unit; about $120 as I recall.
75 Tips

 

[Royse]

In theory, just drain the oil, remove the four bolts in the back and
pull the shaft out. Install a new one in the reverse order.
If the front splines on the shaft are bent, it can be more involved.
If you buy a whole new shaft assembly, you can get it in the original
size or the now common 1 3/8 size complete with all new bearings and seals.
Here's one example: PTO Shaft

 

[cory eneks]

first what is a PITA job

 

[JCinKY]

(quoted from post at 12:38:30 07/05/13) first what is a PITA job

Pain in the a$$.

If you gotta cut the shaft, you'll understand. :lol:

 

[cory eneks]

so basicly the shaft and the bearings should all come out together,,,and the kit should go back in????????

 

[JCinKY]

(quoted from post at 12:50:29 07/05/13) so basicly the shaft and the bearings should all come out together,,,and the kit should go back in????????

Yup. Drain the oil, 4 bolts, yank the old one out. Everything comes out together. Shaft, seal, bearing.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Cory.......sometimes you can park yer tractor nose deep in a ditch so you don't haffta drain 5-gals of hydro-tranny oil. ...otherwize... ittza oil in the armpits job draining all 3"-drains. As said, replace yer ENTIRE PTO shaft with its built-in bearings and seals. Recommend the modern 1-3/8" PTO shaft. .......clean pits Dell

 

[Royse]

One more tip I've heard, but not had to use.
If the shaft doesn't want to go back in, loosen the bolts holding
the pump up to the bottom of the tractor so it can move a little.
When I was thinking about how to do that and get it to re-seal, I have
to think I would take the pump out, put a new gasket on it and then
not tighten it up all the way until I had the shaft in.
If you don't already have an I&T FO-4 manual you may want to get one.

 

[Ultradog MN]

If you don't have a ditch or hill to nose it down into but you do have a good, heavy hoist you can do it that way too.
Thinking of yourself as an apprentice proctologist will make the job go easier.
Seriously though, it is a very simple job.

 

[Tom N MS]

Just word of caution..nose dived mine to change safety valve and front transmission input seal was bad--soaked clutch-immediately clutch would not disengage--drained for two days from jingle jangle cotter pin hole--had to replace clutch.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Anyone giving a moments thought to saving 5 minutes of time by putting the tractor nose down or a$$ high should read this.

Tnx for reminding us.
75 Tips

 

[gwstang]

(quoted from post at 13:09:01 07/05/13) If you don't have a ditch or hill to nose it down into but you do have a good, heavy hoist you can do it that way too.
Thinking of yourself as an apprentice proctologist will make the job go easier.
Seriously though, it is a very simple job.

<img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/P1010006-1.jpg">

That would be so nice to have! I would get a bit nervous if I had to slide under there though :shock:

 

[Ultradog MN]

I agree.
Pretty safe though. 3 ton gantry crane, 3 ton chain hoist and two 3500 lb nylon straps would lift the whole tractor pretty easily.
I took that pic a few years ago.
That shop is gone now. Giant machine/fabrication shop closed and everything auctioned off.
Sad.

 

[souNdguy]

if your front seal was that bad.. it needed to be changed anyway. sooner or later.. etc. and when doing naything requiring a split. clutch and front seal should be looked at / replaced.. just becuse, unless clutch is new..e tc..

 

[Tom N MS]

I agree.