PTO yoke

[Jim.ME]

Thanks everyone for your replies. In answer to "used red" and "caterpillar guy" I understand that using an adapter is not ideal and utilizing an ORC would be preferable, but I apparently have no other options. Agri Supply does not have a complete drive shaft that will fit my situation...I checked with them along with Tractor Supply, Race Brothers, YT, Ebay, Craigslist and others and spent hours online searching for a solution while also asking on this forum. My driveline needs to have a 1 3/8" 6 spline yoke on one end and 1 3/8" 21 spline yoke on the other end and the distance between the tractor PTO shaft and the bush hog shaft is 35" measuring from the back of the shafts. I could not find this configuration on a complete driveline anywhere and I spent many hours searching. As a matter of fact I could not find a 6 spline to 21 spline anywhere no matter what length. "Farmalldude45 may be right...my very old bush hog maybe was designed for a 1000 PTO rather than a 540. However, it worked fine with my previous Allis Chalmers D17 and also with the Farmall H before I lost the driveline.

I am guessing it is not a 1000 rpm PTO spline on that old gearbox. It is more likely just the spline count and shaft diameter the manufacturer of the gearbox chose to use. You might have some luck if you can identify the cutter and the gearbox on it.

You could try contacting DN Equipment, their phone info is on their website. The deal with a lot of different aftermarket implement parts and drive lines.

 

[rustred]

Thanks everyone for your replies. In answer to "used red" and "caterpillar guy" I understand that using an adapter is not ideal and utilizing an ORC would be preferable, but I apparently have no other options. Agri Supply does not have a complete drive shaft that will fit my situation...I checked with them along with Tractor Supply, Race Brothers, YT, Ebay, Craigslist and others and spent hours online searching for a solution while also asking on this forum. My driveline needs to have a 1 3/8" 6 spline yoke on one end and 1 3/8" 21 spline yoke on the other end and the distance between the tractor PTO shaft and the bush hog shaft is 35" measuring from the back of the shafts. I could not find this configuration on a complete driveline anywhere and I spent many hours searching. As a matter of fact I could not find a 6 spline to 21 spline anywhere no matter what length. "Farmalldude45 may be right...my very old bush hog maybe was designed for a 1000 PTO rather than a 540. However, it worked fine with my previous Allis Chalmers D17 and also with the Farmall H before I lost the driveline.

even the old new holland 851 -855 round balers have that set up . many of them at the tractor wreckers also. its not hard to get that set up made. just need a square shaft that slides into a square tube so it slides and weld the ends on and done.

 

[farmdave]

I absolutely can't believe I'm still dealing with the issue of trying to get my bush hog going again. As I mentioned above in this thread I purchased a PTO driveline, and an adapter to make one end of the 1 3/8" 6 spline driveline compatible with the 1 3/8" 21 spline yoke of the bush hog. The items arrived yesterday and I've spent hours trying to connect the driveline to my Farmall H PTO. The tractor side yoke on the driveline is quick release via a button. With the button depressed, the yoke slides about an inch over the PTO shaft then stops. There is no way I can advance it further to get it to lock onto the shaft. I've examined the shaft and the yoke thoroughly and nothing obstructive can be seen. As a test I took the adapter and stuck the 6 spline shaft into the driveline and it slid in fine so it must be some incompatability issue with the Farmall's PTO shaft. Could this be a metric issue with the driveline? It wasn't advertised as such. I assumed (hate that word) all six spline 1 3/8" PTOs were the same size. The PTO shaft on the Farmall looks okay, it's certainly not bent and it turns freely. I've attached a couple of photos showing the PTO on the tractor (I removed the shroud for a better view) and the 6 spline end of the driveline next to the adapter. I've always considered myself a pretty smart guy, now I'm not so sure.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If there is a slight twist in the H pto shaft, that will stop it from going on, especially if the female spline is brand new. It doesn’t take much… twist probably in the vicinity of the groove, where the shaft is weakest. Or, if a pto implement ever came uncoupled, leaving the tractor half spinning, it could have gotten jammed and bent the shaft.

Get a 6 inch steel ruler from the hardware store and lay it along the splines and see if anything is out of spec.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Another idea you might try is painting the shaft with some blue layout fluid and then push the yoke on as far as it will go. When you pull it off the bright spots will tell you where it is hitting and might give you a clue as to what is going on.

 

[rustred]

I absolutely can't believe I'm still dealing with the issue of trying to get my bush hog going again. As I mentioned above in this thread I purchased a PTO driveline, and an adapter to make one end of the 1 3/8" 6 spline driveline compatible with the 1 3/8" 21 spline yoke of the bush hog. The items arrived yesterday and I've spent hours trying to connect the driveline to my Farmall H PTO. The tractor side yoke on the driveline is quick release via a button. With the button depressed, the yoke slides about an inch over the PTO shaft then stops. There is no way I can advance it further to get it to lock onto the shaft. I've examined the shaft and the yoke thoroughly and nothing obstructive can be seen. As a test I took the adapter and stuck the 6 spline shaft into the driveline and it slid in fine so it must be some incompatability issue with the Farmall's PTO shaft. Could this be a metric issue with the driveline? It wasn't advertised as such. I assumed (hate that word) all six spline 1 3/8" PTOs were the same size. The PTO shaft on the Farmall looks okay, it's certainly not bent and it turns freely. I've attached a couple of photos showing the PTO on the tractor (I removed the shroud for a better view) and the 6 spline end of the driveline next to the adapter. I've always considered myself a pretty smart guy, now I'm not so sure.

cant tell from your picture but if there is any paint in that new spline no way u will get it on. both must be clean an oiled good. i do keep mine oiled and they slide on and off like nothing. i can tell the difference once they they get dry as it takes a bit of oomph sometime. plus check for nicks. run the pto and clean up the pto with emery as its turning. then check the inner ones and edges with a small flat file. if it goes on an inch it will go. as long as not twisted as suggested.

 

[farmdave]

Thanks guys Great suggestions. I will get back on it.

 

[rustred]

Thanks guys Great suggestions. I will get back on it.

I hope u realize you need to press that button while shoving it on. U said it goes on one inch only. Well I think that’s your problem. Then when it’s in place the
Button pops out.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks guys Great suggestions. I will get back on it.

you might want to check for burrs on the splines of the tractor shaft, it looks like there might be a few in your picture.

You said, "With the button depressed, the yoke slides about an inch over the PTO shaft then stops." Make sure the button is traveling enough that the pin is not partially block a spline or traveling too far when fully pushed down.

 

[rustred]

I have had some where u gotta really push on that pin. If they go too far just let the pin go and pull back and it then pops in place.

 

[farmdave]

Yeah, thanks guys. The button was the first thing I spent a lot of time dealing with and analyzing. The yoke does not go far enough for the pin to pop back up when it hits the slot on the shaft. I have tried every spline, rotating around to try to find one position that would slide in with no luck. Again as I said in my first message I inserted the adapter while pressing the button and it slides all the way in with no problem. The situation is focused on the tractor PTO shaft where the problem lies. I'm concerned it might be twisted. I will put a ruler on it and Emory cloth it to see if that will help. Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[rustred]

I enlarged the tractor pto and it looks like that notch at 2 o’clock position is all hammered out and into the lower spline area. Plus u could tap it with a hammer to see if it wants to go or it’s a solid stop. Take. A file and file them edges up smooth. Also try that new pto on another tractor if possible. Have u oiled the pto ? As I said oil also helps. Have u run a pto Shaft with this tractor before. ?

 

[300guy]

You can also use a flat file and lay it on the PTO shaft while it is turning to smooth up shaft and take any high spots out. Maybe a little safer then the Emory cloth that could wrap on the shaft.

 

[Jim Becker]

May just be the picture, but to me it looks like it is twisted ahead of the slot/notch in the splines.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Normally you will find a shaft that might be the right splines and have to cut it to fit your application since most of those drive shafts are for a generic fit situation. So if you found one with the right splines and was to long you would just need to cut some off both ends so it fits without pulling apart nor dead ending in the opposite end when at the shortest point when in use. I would let it down to operating position measure write down then raise so the shaft would be at it's shortest point probably when the 2 ends are about even height then measure again and write down this would give you a basic length to work with for both lengths and then you will probably want at least about 6-8 inches minimum lap in the drive line when at longest point. This will also depend on the over all length of the drive shaft. Try Bailey sales in TN they have bulk drive shaft or Surplus center for pieces you could piece one together with from bulk tube and yokes or yokes with shafting on them If you have the smaller PTO shaft on your tractor then there used to be a sleeve adapter you could get that would fit inside your new yoke and slip on the PTO shaft of the tractor .Fun part would be getting the pieces to align so you can get the bolt/pin in to hold them on the tractor. I would probably slip the sleeve in the ORC then start the pin or a pin to hold the sleeve in place and slide on tractor then push pin the rest of the way when it aligned with the hole in the PTO shaft on the tractor. Thus keeping the adapter sleeve in place while getting the whole thing together. Might even be cheaper to buy 2 whole shafts with the same tube and swap out the ends you need and save the rest for a future use.

 

[DoubleO7]

@caterpillar guy

He already bought a complete generic pto driveshaft assembly.

Why go buy a bunch of pieces or another assembly?

 

[farmdave]

Hey everyone, success! I heeded some great advice and worked with a file to smooth up the PTO shaft. After some abundant elbow grease I was able to get the driveline on it successfully this morning. I was afraid I was going to have to replace the shaft. Thanks so much to all of you for your knowledgeable input and prompt response to my dilemma. Y'all take care.

 

[DoubleO7]

Hey everyone, success! I heeded some great advice and worked with a file to smooth up the PTO shaft. After some abundant elbow grease I was able to get the driveline on it successfully this morning. I was afraid I was going to have to replace the shaft. Thanks so much to all of you for your knowledgeable input and prompt response to my dilemma. Y'all take care.

Make sure the shaft assembly is not too long nor too short for lifting to the max and to the lowering to the lowest point.
Both possibilities are BAD and expensive.