Pto

[Ford900]

Hello, what would cause my pto to kick out of gear while running a bush hog, also you can slide the shaft in and out about a half inch, this is on a 1957 ford 960

Thank you

 

[Larry NCKS]

That much endplay could be causing your problems itself. Get it corrected and go from there. I don't have endplay specs in front of me, but wouldn't guess it to be even 1/16 inch.

 

[Billy NY]

It sounds like you need to pull the shaft, do the bearing, seal and the snap ring,
When the ring moves, or is displaced, it allows the free-play you describe. Its not a difficult repair, you can buy an new drop in PTO shaft already done, or replace the appropriate parts on the existing one. I've done the latter, bearing, seal, ring, gasket and what else have I forgotten by now.....would have to find the slip from the parts order, but it looks the same as an 800 series,(850 to be precise)

Is it leaking around the shaft and or drawbar?

Also make sure the pto shaft on the rotary mower is telescoping freely, it would seem plausible that could cause the displacement of the ring shown in the diagram, by putting pressure on it, instead of moving with the terrain, or cutting height changes. I don't believe on mine, it was displaced, seal was leaking, but it did have some end play if I recall, either or, if need be make sure the mower PTO shaft telescopes freely.


Diagram

 

[souNdguy]

As you have been too, that thrust play is excessive, and its walking your pro out of engagement, in the process it can chew up the inner splines, coupler, and hammer-mushroom the inner end if the pro shaft.

Check for bearing damage, bad split ring, maybee bearing carrier, maybee wear ring. Coil be any or all of those.

As said, do the seal too.

Cheap and easy, takes 15-20 minutes once you have the rear and Hyds drained

 

[Ford900]

Yeah the pto shaft on the mower moves frealy, so I'm thinking to just get the whole to pto shaft with seal and bearing, what size shaft should a 1957 960 have because I can't remember

 

[Ford900]

So I should just get the new shaft with the bearing and seal, and what size shaft should be on a 1957 960 anyways

Thank you

 

[Billy NY]

Should be 1 3/8", its not common to find the smaller one, but its possible, measure up first, and you'll be dealing with the fluids in the compartments, some will raise up the rear, or nose the front, down, good excuse to change the fluids, but its not necessary if you tilt the tractor so the fluids are retained.

 

[souNdguy]

pull it. if the bearing carrier is damaged, IMHO.. I'd just get a new assy.

if a split ring just popped, do the seal and the ring.. etc.

the generic 100$ ( about ) assy this site sells will slide right in with a pto gasket sandwiched.. etc. ( your old one should be 1 3/8 already.

 

[souNdguy]

please don't give bad advice.

A 900 is not an 8n.

you can't nose an 900 down like you can an N.

the pto shaft on a 53-64 machine travels thru the hyds and rear end.

nosing down just means you mingle gear oil and hydraulic fluid.

you drain both hyds and rear ends, to do the job correctly.

 

[Billy NY]

Bad advice again, right?? Just can't win around here can ya? Seriously though, thanks for pointing that out, it makes sense now, an "N" series is not a 900. LOL ..... !!!! I must have pulled up the wrong diagram, but....it did have a 9 in it,(close enough right?) followed by some zeros, but those zeros don't mean anything anyways right ? LOL!

You know I'm going to give it right back to you don't you ? LOL!

Now for some further sarcasm/humor if you will... and please don't lose your sense of humor here, we have a lot of ground to cover on this highly technical and complex repair question LOL!

We don't know what he's actually running in there, but there's been that long standing recommendation due to seal leaks between the compartments, to run 134 or equivalent that meets spec's, in all 3 compartments. In that situation, the fluid is the same, nothing to mix right?

'39-'52 N prefers GL-1 mineral 90 wt in the trans if I recall. (I forgot, a 900 is not an N LOL !)

If that's the case, running the same in all 3 (we don't know what he's actually running or is in there) and its recent fluid in there, you then encounter this common pto shaft problem with these, you can drain some of it down, then raise the back end to retain most of the fluid, do the repair, then top off with new once done.

Add in an engine oil change, all new fluids could run you $200 or so. Well maybe less if you can find a better deal on the fluid, or get the least expensive available,(I don't recommend it, more so in cold temps it does not perform at all, you don't have that climate where you are Soundguy). I did this repair in Sept of '12, took your advice on the shaft repair, vs new, it was easy like you said.

I would agree, if the fluid has significant hours on it, or the hours are just unknown, its good maintenance, to drain all 3, inspect the inside of the compartments where you can with a bright flashlight, then refill with new. Take note any metal fines or accumulation near the drain or the bottom of the housings, or any visible mechanical problems.

Still bad advice? (just rubbing it in) I'm sure he will figure it out, if not, come back y'all for some more SOUND advice LOL ! No pun intended LOL ! Hopefully you do have a sense of humor now, or I've just wasted my time with this here LOL !

Respectfully yours, N=900 (my new handle) LOL !
134

 

[souNdguy]

Even if there is utf in all sumps, you can still get Hyds overfilling the rear end.

Then you get leaky axle seals, in general.

The rowcrops also have bull gears to fmdeal with. Many of us like real gear oil in the drop boxes, thus rear end too.

Nose down just isn't a cut n dry recommendation for the 53-64 models.

 

[souNdguy]

Ps, if you pay 200$ for a fluid change, ya got problems...