Question About Carb Rebuild


Since I couldn't find anyone to rebuild my carb, I finally ordered a kit. There is a young lady who does tractor repair videos on YouTube. In her rebuild video she shows the choke valve being positioned one way on the choke shaft. In an animated video from the Jus8Ns YouTube channel it is shown being positioned just the opposite! Which is correct??
One photo shows the spring on the choke valve pointed towards the outside of the carb with the little "door" opening to the outside. The other shows the spring pointed into the carb body and the "door" opening to the inside...

Thank you! What happens if you turn it the other way? (Hehehe) Asking for a friend... :)

This post was edited by mbramble on 11/30/2023 at 09:05 pm.
(quoted from post at 01:03:09 12/01/23) Thank you! What happens if you turn it the other way? (Hehehe) Asking for a friend... :)
here would be a hard stop of air flow, no bypass function. Even some manuals show it wrong. Here, it is correct.
bkHsUPm.jpg addition, the spring would hold choke closed instead of open (if you an hookup spring) and the choke knob would be pull to open push in to choke (backwards). Below is WRONG from carb repair manual.

I did a little PhotoShop wk to fix it.

This post was edited by JMOR on 12/01/2023 at 09:17 am.
A carb rebuild is not a difficult task, time and patience are essential. You or any other rookie can do it if mechanically inclined and use the right tools. Wrenching
With Rachel has good DIY videos though some critical points are missed. She and her parents are very good friends of mine and he taught her everything about tractors.
She is the son they never had as they only have three daughters. Anyway, JMOR's sketch of the carb shows parts & function well. If the choke plate gets backwards, it
won't open correctly. The shaft and spring have to be right as well. I use the TISCO Carb Kits, C546V is for the Marvel-Schebler TSX-33 & TSX-241 N-Series Tractors.
The kit has the parts designed for the 241 so a few were revamped and work on the TSX-33 as well. TISCO are the most dependable and have most all correct parts. You
will have to buy a new brass carb fuel inlet elbow but I think only the needle spring, 9N9578, is not included in the kit. I don't use the palsticVenturrissold today
either. Avoid imitations especially ones with steel choke plates, throttle plates, and steel screws. Always use the OEM brass parts IMO. I have experienced shafts
having the tapped holes off location and fit not right in cheap off brands too. Lessons learned. Until you do a few rebuilds and get used to the procedure, videos help
a lot and sometimes you can take good pictures of the unit before you begin tearing it down and create a desktop folder for yourself with all carb info saved. Read
beforehand and know what the proper parts are called and how they function. Layout the new parts and ID them so at assembly you are not hunting around to find them. I
used masking tape and labeled each with part and number when I first started learning. Still do. Get your I&T FO-4 Service Manual out too for a roadmap. There are a
few critical parts that need to be assembled right besides the choke plate. The Spring on the choke shaft, 9N9539, is one. Most all internal parts are brass and so
will easily booger up the screwdriver slot if the wrong tool is used. Never use a screwdriver tip that is smaller than the head slot as it can slip and mangle the
slot. I advise to get a very wide blade tool like a chisel and modify slightly to get the Main Needle & Valve Seat in and out with. Get a 3/8 6-PT DEEP WELL socket to
install/remove the 9N9530 Main Nozzle with. Both this and the Main Needle & Seat Valve use a fibre washer underneath. Be sure to remove old ones at rebuild and seating
area is free of any old gasket and/or dirt material. Set float level at 1/4 as FORD now recommends. Use OEM preliminary settings per manuals and when testing on the
tractor. Know that engine must be warmed up before making any adjustments and go slow using short 1/8 turns at a time and WAIT until engine speed catching up before
going further.






Tim Daley (MI)
A personal observation: When starting a very cold engine that requires full choke and a little choke to warm up you can actually hear that little trap door sucking air. I usually open the choke enough during warm up so that the sucking noise stops, trap door shuts, and then open choke 100% shortly after when able.

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.