Questions on Ford tractor

Rayman66

Member
I posted this before but don't know where it went.

My brother has a ford tractor; this is what he found for a serial number: NI5I660. Can someone tell me what this means? year etc.
Is there a way to test the resistor? This is still a 6 volt system but there is no power at coil unless we run a jumper wire.

Does anyone have information on how to adjust carburetor? It is brand new just seems like aren't getting full throttle out of it.

Thank you all in advance for any help on this.

Ray
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:38 12/27/19) I posted this before but don't know where it went.

My brother has a ford tractor; this is what he found for a serial number: NI5I660. Can someone tell me what this means? year etc.
Is there a way to test the resistor? This is still a 6 volt system but there is no power at coil unless we run a jumper wire.

Does anyone have information on how to adjust carburetor? It is brand new just seems like aren't getting full throttle out of it.

Thank you all in advance for any help on this.

Ray

You might post a photo of the tractor and tell us the location of the distributor and the generator.
 


will get a picture.
the distributor is on the front of the engine in front of the fan. the generator is on the right side setting on the tractor seat. the generator has a single wire.
 
Always tell the reader to what model tractor you are referring to for better help. By your other comments we can deduce you have a 9N or 2N Model. The front mount
distributor and 1-Wire generator are the clues. The number you see is NOT the serial number. N serial numbers are hand stamped on a cast boss below the head -see PIC.
All 9N and 2N serial numbers begin with the '9N' prefix. All 9N, 2N, and early 8N's used the STAR symbol (*) before and after the s/n to designate steel cylinder
liners. Now that this is clear, serial numbers mean little now. Unless you have an early 9N for restoration, not important and they are basically the same tractor.
9N/2N has a 3-SPD trans; DRAFT CONTROL ONLY; and the front mount distributor. Electrical systems on all Ford vehicles were 6V/POS GRN, however, just because you have a
6V battery does not mean it is wired that way. All 9N/2N models used the 1-Wire/3-Brush (after s/n 125000) generator and the roundcan cutout. I suggest you get the
essential manuals and read the tractor specs and do's and don'ts before getting ahead of yourself. Testing the coil and resistor can be done but I suspect they are not
teh root cause problem. All electrical issues can usually be traced to bad battery. That and bad/mucked up wiring are the main failure causes. I suggest the first
thing you need to do is remove the battery, take it to a trusty starter shop or auto parts supplier and have them bench test the battery under load. If it fails,
that's a start. But before you just slap a new one in best to go thru the entire wiring setup (see Diagrams) and verify it is correct. Then you can connect the
battery. You will want to test the coil and perform a spark test before attempting to start it. Don't be buying new parts and just replacing them without testing good
or bad first. One system at at time. Leave the carb alone and we'll discuss later once electrical is right. If you don't pass the spark test, then we look at the
distributor. The front mount unit only mounts one correct way and if you get it off 180? you will bust the housing. Get the essential manuals first.


FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION:
2QvuQBGh.jpg

S/N identifies the engine block only and doesn't necessarily mean it was original to that tractor.

FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/QWaC1aah.jpg">​
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/CJedLEch.jpg">​
SGwwM6th.jpg


FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
i2gbSeol.jpg


[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25"
colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
4lBA6Yh.jpg

</td><td>
zzYVuC4.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 
(quoted from post at 21:39:38 12/27/19) I posted this before but don't know where it went.

My brother has a ford tractor; this is what he found for a serial number: NI5I660. Can someone tell me what this means? year etc.
Is there a way to test the resistor? This is still a 6 volt system but there is no power at coil unless we run a jumper wire.
L
Does anyone have information on how to adjust carburetor? It is brand new just seems like aren't getting full throttle out of it.

Thank you all in advance for any help on this.

Ray

Probably should be a 9 in front of those numbers - e.g. 9NI5I660. Ford used the capital letter I for the digit 1 so you have a Ford 9N serial number 151660. That number indicates it is an early 1941 model.

TOH
 

Thank you for all the great information you provided; that will be a big help.
The tractor does run. Had to run a jumper wire to coil and the carburetor had to be replaced as it was broken.
That is why was wondering about testing resistor and carburetor adjustment.

Thank you again for all your help.

Ray
 
Also, the front mount distributor needs the ballast resistor, the one mounted on the back side of the instrument panel. You can test it easily enough with a volt meter or an ohm meter. With a volt meter, you should see battery on both sides of it. If you only see battery on one side, then it's bad.
 
I will get flamed for this but my tractor to me is prof you do not need that resistor. Was always hard starting so used a 8 volt battery to get voltage to points up to where it would start. Tractor got to where it would only run a short while and die or before diying miss heavy. Did have to replace battery and new 6 volt battery and bypas that resistor runs better than ever. Ford and Chrysler are only companys that thought you had to cut the voltage to points. International trucks and General Motors did not do that on all cars or trucks. The distributor from mag conversions for Farmall or Deere did not use a resistor and put full 6 volts to coil and taking out that resistor makes the system work like the distributor conversions, the Chevy, Olds, Buick, Cadilac cars or the International trucks and with no point burning problems. I know what is working on by tractor no mater what others say that it will not work.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top