Radiator Leak Fix

Nate (NY)

New User
Hi Y'all, first I would like to thank you all for the help I have
received thus far. It sure is comforting to know that there are
people out there willing to help! Mabel (1949 8n) now has a
functional 12V conversion, new plugs, fixed oil leak and purrs
like a kitten.

After finishing all this work I was sipping my celebratory
beverage and walking around the front end and saw a puddle of
anti-freeze on the floor. It seems that after the engine warms
up and the pressure rises in the radiator, a leak forms on the
seam between the top tank and the core. I have attached a
picture which hopefully shows this leak. It looks like the seam is
intact and it is a hair line leak.

Has anyone ever tried to re solder this joint? I am planning on
taking the radiator off and removing the paint to inspect the
joint closer. Would this be silver solder or lead?

Thanks in advance!
a25085.jpg
 
To properly repair that an old-time radiator guy would unsolder the whole tank and remove it so the inside of the leaking joint could be cleaned up 100%.

I recently did a quick repair an a Deere 2010 radiator with a similar leak by cutting a brass patch out of the tank on a scrap radiator that was larger/longer than the cracked area and soldered it OVER the crack, repairing it fairly well without the need to get down deep inside the area where the tank and header meet to clean it out.

Time will tell how long it will hold.

And, yes, that radiator would be soldered with lead solder, 50/50, I think.

If this is your first "rodeo" with soldering/radiator repair, be careful not to apply too much heat or you'll have leaks where the tubes are soldered to the header.

Oh, yeah, both the radiator and the patch have to be CLEAN... use wire brush and/or coarse emery cloth to make the brass SHINE before attempting to solder it. Use "tinning flux".
 
Nate, It looks like the top tank is leaking at the seam on the front side and not the core tubes.If you are wanting to fix it yourself here ya go. To repair the seam,drain and remove (would be best)the radiator,flush it out good with fresh water good.lay it flat on bench or saw horses to work on.Get a small stainless wire brush the size of a tooth brush and a propane torch a container of water and clean rag (for cooling ).With a low flame,keeping the heat on the top tank and NOT the core heat the seam and wire brush it removing solider cleaning it.Then cool it with the wet rag.when its cool heat and brush and cool,keep doing that until its totally clean.Then heat and pry up the seam lip up some and brush and cool it.Clean between the joint where its leaking,when you have it totally cleaned up.tin the seam at the lap with 60/40 acid core solider,bend seam back down and cool.Then heat and run solider on the seam.then cool till you have it .Don't get the core or tubes hot enough to melt the solider or you'll have the tubes leaking.The secret to doing a good job is clean and shiny. Or take it to a radiator shop for repair.
 
I can weld, braze, silver solder and solder.
But I'd probably still bring that in to a radiator shop and as Bob says have the tank off. Get it rodded and put back together properly.
Look at it this way: A new, flimsey, ill fitting China Maid will run you the better part of $200. Fix that one will be about the same price.
Personally I would rather have the original radiator if the price is the same.
As for using JB on a radiator, I will overlook that ill concieved idea.
Just as I overlook most other uses of that dreaded junk on these tractors.
 
Drain the radiator down below the leak level.
Clean that area good with a brush and soap or lacqer thinner. Let it dry and then use "Sonic Weld" to fix it. Just mix the amount of sonic weld that you would need to cover that portion that has the leak. All you have to do is push it over the leaking area and into the cracks. Let the Sonis Weld cure for about 10 hours or so and then refill the radiator and check it. Should stop the leak.

Zane
 
I took my radiator out and had at it with the torch and solder.

That was about 20 years ago with cold winters and hot summers.

If you can't solder, a radiator shop is a better option than a Chi-Com replacement.
 
No, it's not the same as JB Weld. It comes in a stick about three inches long in a sealed tube. You just cut off what ever amount you want to use and put the rest back in the tube and it wlll keep for months. Knead the part you want to use till it is all a uniform color and then apply it and let it cure for at least five or six hours or longer if you can wait. It is sold at all auto parts stores in Alabama. Don't know about other states????

It can be plastered directly onto a leaking gas tank and work to stop the leak even when dirty and gas present but works best when dry and clean.

Zane
 
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