Radiator update

[MarkB_MI]

OK, I got my 4-cylinder 4000 row crop into the shop and got the radiator out. I don't think I'll bother trying to repair it. I broke one of the mounting studs, and there's a hole worn in the lower tank. The two lower right fan shroud screws were missing and over the past thirty or so years the fan shroud wore a hole through the tank. (Notice the shiny area near the inlet.) I'm going to order either YT's "restoration" radiator or the radiator from American Cooling Solutions.

Getting the hood off was loads of fun. The few fasteners left holding the tin on did not give up easily and I had to break out the hot wrench.

 

[Dean]

The hole in the bottom tank is an easy fix for any radiator man and the core looks good from what I can see.

Whatever you decide, be certain to replace or install (most are long since missing) the "rubber" pads between the top tank and the hood on either side.

Dean

 

[MarkB_MI]

> The hole in the bottom tank is an easy fix for any radiator man and the core looks good from what I can see.

I'm more concerned about the broken mounting stud.

> Whatever you decide, be certain to replace or install (most are long since missing) the "rubber" pads between the top tank and the hood on either side.

No sign of any pads, top or bottom.

 

[fredstev]

(quoted from post at 20:22:40 02/21/21) > The hole in the bottom tank is an easy fix for any radiator man and the core looks good from what I can see.

I'm more concerned about the broken mounting stud.

> Whatever you decide, be certain to replace or install (most are long since missing) the "rubber" pads between the top tank and the hood on either side.

No sign of any pads, top or bottom.

Available many sources, probably here at YT and the place down the road from me in Lennon, MI. I think parts # FDS1759 and ABC455 are what you want. Do the job right and you won't have to listen to a lot of squeaking and grinding and end up with fatigue cracks in the radiator.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> Available many sources, probably here at YT and the place down the road from me in Lennon, MI. I think parts # FDS1759 and ABC455 are what you want. Do the job right and you won't have to listen to a lot of squeaking and grinding and end up with fatigue cracks in the radiator.

Thanks for the part numbers, Fred. (From the supplier who shall not be named.) It's quite amazing that radiator lasted as long as it did. I've had that tractor for 26 years, and I'm pretty sure the bumpers were missing the whole time. Not to mention the shroud rubbing against the lower tank. Those old radiators must be very well built.

 

[showcrop]

Offer it up for sale. There are probably people who would rather fix yours than try to deal with a "nearly fits".

 

[Dean]

They are supposed to be there. They prevent the radiator from moving side to side creating metal fatigue.

Shown in parts drawings and available aftermarket.

Dean

 

[Dean]

The top bumpers are usually missing.

I have never bought or inspected a used vintage Ford finding the bumpers in place.

Dean

 

[fredstev]

Yup. I've owned my 871 for 48 years, and the rub blocks were about done when I got it. That was back when we had a local Ford tractor dealer, and when I was there picking up something else, I complained about the squeaking coming from under the hood when on rough ground. He didn't even look - just reached under the counter and handed me some "isolation blocks" (his words) for the radiator. Said that'd fix the noise, look for the shiny spots. They did. Had to replace them again a couple of years ago when I serviced the radiator.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I figure out that what I thought was a broken stud is actually and easily-removed carriage bolt. So I found a radiator shop about 30 minutes away that specializes in heavy equipment. When the guy started talking about working on 8N and 9N radiators I figured I was at the right place. I'll know what it's going to take to fix it in a day or two.

Oh, I did find the top bumpers. The wire connecting the headlights was strung through them, so they couldn't get away, but they fell out of position years ago. They're hard as rocks, of course.

 

[Tom Bond]

Don't want to hijack this thread or anything but all this discussion about the radiator bumpers got the best of my curiosity. I had to go out and look at mine on the 961 I recently acquired. Do the bumpers go on the sides of the radiator by those flat mount type pieces of metal? Also, is that the part # and date code of my radiator? 2 58? My serial # does indicate it is a '58 961. Hard to believe still the original radiator if it is. But it's in great shape for it's age.

 

[Dean]

Bumpers slip onto the two pieces of metal at the junction of the hood side panels and dog legs. Bumpers should be positioned longitudinally at the radiator support.

Bumpers are readily available aftermarket.

They were in position on the 961 that you bought a few years ago.

Dean