RE:SennaMiller

[Tx Jim]

Due to problem posting to other thread I'll start a new thread.

1st thing to try is attempt to start engine with top bleeder screw opened a round or 2. If check valve is the problem engine should start with fuel spraying from bleeder.

Fuel lines must be loosened or removed before other fittings can be removed. One should be able to remove both lines from both fittings I referred to in previous posts then remove fittings. After line from check valve has been removed then a socket with ratchet could be utilized to remove check valve fitting. Check has a ball & spring that may be clogged.

 

[SennaMiller]

TX Jim, thanks again. I will try the "check valve" with the top IP bleeder open to start engine to see if that is it and will order some good open ended wrenches (my sizes are only up to 9/16). Once I can get the tools and be able to check both IP input fuel filter screen and the check value, will reply to let you know. Tks again.

 

[SennaMiller]

wanted to provide the outcome from my JD2040 fuel issue. The symptoms were that the engine when at idle varied in RPM, then cut out and would not restart. I had just purchased the tractor 4 weeks prior, so started to diagnose. Noticed the fuel filter has black tar in the bottom, was told it was probably algae. I added diesel fuel additive, bled lines, and was only able to get the tractor to run for like 5 minutes at the most.

Was getting what seemed to be decent fuel pressure at the lower IP bleed point. Removed the IP check valve and IP input fuel screen / spinner. Check valve seemed to be frozen, so resolved that. There was some debris in the IP input screen, cleaned out. Remoed the IP spinner cover and cleaned out some buildup. Still was unable to get engine to start more than 5 minutes.

In using the manual primer, noticed that there were air bubbles coming into the bottom of the fuel filter. Then started suspecting fuel pump, removed fuel pump and found to be very compromised (diaphragm was degrading/tears and lots of debris in pump, noticed the manual primer lever was slightly loose/wiggly. Came to the realization that there was air getting into the fuel system from the fuel pump, replaced fuel pump ($34), bled the fuel system well, and after cranking intermittently for about 60 seconds total, I am back up and running. IP's are very sensitive to any amount of air in the fuel lines and need a very specific amount of pressure from the fuel pump to operate properly. Thanks for all the assistance. I will also start using diesel additive on a scheduled basis and Sta-bil to remove the water from the fuel.

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanks for update & I'm glad you got your tractor's engine to run longer than a few minutes.
Jim