Re-wiring a 8n

[kyford8n]

I have a question regarding rewiring an 8n.

I have looked at JMOR's wiring pictograms but can't find what I am needing. I have a 52 8n with side mount distributor. It has been converted to 12volt and has a 3 wire alternator. All of the pics show the late 8n's with 1 wire alternators. The only thing showing a 3 wire is on a 9n/2n and shows one of the wires going to a resistor block, which I do not have.

Any help or additional pics would be greatly appreciated.

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 14:24:00 12/18/17) I have a question regarding rewiring an 8n.

I have looked at JMOR's wiring pictograms but can't find what I am needing. I have a 52 8n with side mount distributor. It has been converted to 12volt and has a 3 wire alternator. All of the pics show the late 8n's with 1 wire alternators. The only thing showing a 3 wire is on a 9n/2n and shows one of the wires going to a resistor block, which I do not have.

Any help or additional pics would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.myfordtractors.com/12volt04.shtml

scroll down thur the page and you will find one for the 3 wire alt.

 

[Dell (WA)]

kyford.........just so you know that resistor block on the weird 4-nipple dizzy, is a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor. You still NEED the infamous ballast resistor for ALL front-mount dizzys. There is a new 12-volt front mount dizzy coil but it still needs the ballast resistor.

Howsomevers: yer 5-nipple side-mount dizzy can use the NAPA IC-14 round can coil ($18, cheap) that is a 12-volt coil 'stedda using the original 6-volt coil and 12-to-6 converting resistor. Me? Guess which way I'd go??? Interestingly enuff, the 12-volt round can coil (IC-14) uses the SAME points (0.025) and condenser as the 6-volt round can coil. Oh yeah, the 12-volt coil has HOTTER SPARK. Speaking of sparkies, recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[kyford8n]

I rewired my 8n with help from JMOR's pictograms. Everything went OK. However, while attempting to run the #1 wire from my alternator up to the junction bolts sitting under my ammeter. I noticed it was plugged into a 2 prong cap sitting beside my oil filter canister. I looked through my shop manual as well as owners manual and do not see this shown on any of the schematics and was curious if you guys had any idea what it was and if it was correct to have my wire hooked up here. the second leg of this runs to the top bolt of my junction bolts under my ammeter. here is a pic showing what I am referring to.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 09:36:21 12/26/17) I rewired my 8n with help from JMOR's pictograms. Everything went OK. However, while attempting to run the #1 wire from my alternator up to the junction bolts sitting under my ammeter. I noticed it was plugged into a 2 prong cap sitting beside my oil filter canister. I looked through my shop manual as well as owners manual and do not see this shown on any of the schematics and was curious if you guys had any idea what it was and if it was correct to have my wire hooked up here. the second leg of this runs to the top bolt of my junction bolts under my ammeter. here is a pic showing what I am referring to.

Looks like a low oil pressure warning switch added to disconnect the alternator when the engine is not running.

TOH

 

[JMOR]

An oil pressure switch, used to kill/enable power to #1 Excite terminal of alternator. Don't see much on these old Fords, but was factory on some other makes such as MF.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

(quoted from post at 07:35:21 12/26/17) An oil pressure switch, used to kill/enable power to #1 Excite terminal of alternator. Don't see much on these old Fords, but was factory on some other makes such as MF.

I have a good friend raised on a tobacco farm in Brunswick Co VA. They used a pto pump on the tractor to pump water out of the farm pond to irrigate the tobacco. To avoid evaporation, they did this at night. The tractor did not have a low oil or low coolant switch on it, but what they did have was a kid to sit in the tractor seat all night to watch the gauges! As the youngest kid in the family, that was my friends job. When he was older, he got promoted to staying up all night as 'fireguard' when they fired the tobacco in the barns.

 

[kyford8n]

Thanks guys,

I have another pic and another question about another part I cant find on the owners manual or shop manual. It is connected between the sediment bowl and the carb. There is a wire running from my coil into it. I assumed it was some sort of fuel pump or auto shutoff but wasn't sure.

A lot of stuff on this tractor was "rigged" and half A@# done. I have been going through it a little at a time trying to get it fully functional.

 

[JMOR]

looks like electric fuel pump.....looks to big & too complex for fuel shut off.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:56:36 12/26/17) looks like electric fuel pump.....looks to big & too complex for fuel shut off.

I guess the PO didn't believe Newton ;-)

TOH

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:58:37 12/26/17)

(quoted from post at 14:56:36 12/26/17) looks like electric fuel pump.....looks to big & too complex for fuel shut off.

I guess the PO didn't believe Newton ;-)

TOH

always liked his fig cookies!

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 13:56:36 12/26/17) looks like electric fuel pump.....looks to big & too complex for fuel shut off.

Actually, it IS an electric "fuel tank selector valve".

There's three ports, so one isn't being used, basically like using a SPDT switch as a SPST switch.

IIRC,the valves were made by Pollak, and can be had as a "Standard Ignition" "FV1".

All sorts of 'em for sale on the 'net under that number.

 

[kyford8n]

So what am I really gaining/losing by keeping it hooked up?

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:34:47 12/26/17)

There's three ports, so one isn't being used, basically like using a SPDT switch as a SPST switch.

I'm guessing that is the one with the linchpin hose clamped into it ;-)

TOH

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 13:43:19 12/26/17) So what am I really gaining/losing by keeping it hooked up?

I would get rid of it and take the fuel system back to what is should be. Be simpler.

 

[Jim WI]

The sediment bowl should have a valve on it to allow shutting off the gas. The electric fuel tank selector is set up to turn off the gas when you turn off the key switch. Not a bad idea, but the way it was done is over complicated.

 

[kyford8n]

So, if I remove it, the wire coming from the coil to the pump would then be routed to the top junction bolt then, Correct?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 14:36:25 12/26/17) So, if I remove it, the wire coming from the coil to the pump would then be routed to the top junction bolt then, Correct?

Remove it and wire it like JMOR's wiring diagram