Re-wiring question for John T

[Mommas_MT]

You've been working with me on a ammeter gauge problem on my 52 MT. Well, in all my haste I realized that the wire that runs from the gauge to the switch is missing (the orginal one that had a inline fuse, no longer there), so that might answer why I was getting no reading on my gauge when the switch was on. So, what gauge wire should I use to connect the two, does it matter at this point, since I want to rewire the whole tractor once its totally reworked & repainted? What gauge wire do I need to use when I do rewire the whole thing, obviously want to keep it color coded and rewire with a "lights" wire since it has one now. Your direction would be appreciated.

 

[John T]

Yo Momma, If you just insist everything is like original n perfect you would wanna go see my old buddy Jim up in New York State at Agri Services (www.wiringharnesses.com) for a complete new wiring harness butttttttttt if you just need a few new wires in the meantime, heres what Id use, even if it may be a slight overkill in a few places:

From the ammeters Load (NOT battery/starter Supply) terminal to the switches BAT input terminal Id use insulated 12 gauge stranded copper.

From the ammeters other hot Supply terminal to the battery/starter (thats where the big battery cable connection to the starter is), Id use 12 there also, heck 10 would work even if overkill if thats all you had.

On the wiring from the gennys ARM post to the cutout relay (GEN/ARM terminal) and from the cutout relay (BAT terminal) to the ammeters Load terminal (same terminal that feeds the switch), again Id use 12 gauge.

The wire from the gennys FLD post to the switch
only carries a few amps so 14 or even 16 is fine butttttttttt hey 12 will work also.

For wires to lights Id use 14 but again, 12 would work so you dont have to buy more then one roll of wire.

On any 6 volt tractor I like 00 Gauge battery to starter n battery to ground big honkin cables even if its overkill (my guess is maybe 1 gauge or so was original) but note, light thin wimpy 4 gauge like small autos use n maybe sold at Wally World IS JUST TOO SMALL......

DONT FORGET that Cutout Relay and that light switch n genny alllllll need good clean tight connections to frame ground ya know.

John T

 

[Mommas_MT]

Thanks John T. you are a true Godsend to those of us (girlz!!) that need an extra hand to restore their new toys.

I was right though on the fact that since their is not a wire running from the switch to the ammeter gauge that's why it doesn't show a charge, right? Possibly? Won't know till I connect one?

 

[John T]

Not exactly, even if there were no loads (like say lights) if the charging system and ammeter were working and shes wired correct, the ammeter should still show a charge into the battery especially right after start up when the battery is somewhat depleted........

Theres only ONE wire on the ammeters Supply side, the one down to the battery cable starter post, while over on its other Load side theres usually two, one that gets the gennys charge via the Cutout Relay PLUS the one that feeds hot battery voltage to loads like lights n ignition. That way the ammeter registers the net charge into or out of the battery. If the gennys output is first supplying all the current required by the loads (its hooked to same ammeter terminal remember) its excess current can then go into the battery to charge it, but if the loads are taking more current then the genny is supplying (like when shes not running) then theres more current going out of the battery then going in and the ammeter registers a - discharge.....

Soooooooooo if she were really charging and the ammeter was wired correct (including the wire from switch to gennys FLD post), it should still have showed a charge regardless if no loads were attached (which happens if the switch isnt wired to ammeter) NOTE if the gennys output (via the cutout relay) is wired to the wrong ammeter terminal it wouldnt show a charge either cuz the charging current isnt flowing through the ammeter as it should be MAKE SURE AMMETER IS WIRED CORRECT........

On that light switch and cutout relay system when shes not charging its often cuz the switch isnt well grounded or the wires bad or open from FLD on the genny up to the light switch. When shes running if you temporarily dead ground the gennys FLD post to frame ground she should go to max charge if the genny itself is okay, but if not the genny is bad assuming all else is okay. If she charges with the gennys FLD dead grounded but NOT otherwise, then again the switch is bad or not grounded or the wires bad/open from FLD on genny up to the switch.

Of course, the genny itslef has to be working or she never charges even if all this other stuff is correct. Have you copied my Troubleshooting Procedure for non charging?? Its kinda long winded but will diagnose most problems.

Its your move

John T