Ready to split 300u...

[Dave H (MI)]

I am in process splitting the 300u. All cribbed and supported to leave front stationary and roll back half away. Starter would not turn over engine. When pulled the starter was found full of engine oil. So working on the assumption that there is a bad seal in the rear. Searched for replacement and Steiner came up. They have a kit that covers a lot of models. Link below. It fits the International 300 with the C169 engine. I don't know what engine is in tractor, stupid question but is there an ID plate or something? Any last minute tips appreciated. Based on prior posts looks like I need to check retainers for any distortion. I am unclear if felt should be soaked in oil? Do i use any product on gaskets to help seal? Anything else to consider?
Seal kit link

 

[Janicholson]

I soak the felt. The retainer is white metal, and needs to be flat, which = not over tight. I use #2 permatex on both sides applied to the metal. Be observant of the condition of the drive splines on the PTO drive tube where they engage the clutch cover splines. leave the clutch cover loose with the drive shafts in it so it goes together easily, then tighten the cover bolts. Some clutch covers have 3 holes for compressing the springs (a good option if the threaded holes are there. Use removed cover bolts. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Do not know if you checked your link but YT blocks links to that company and several others that are parts selling competitors Yes, it should be a 169 engine. Thing of it is the seal kit will probably fit any of the engines in that family that will bolt in the tractor.

 

[Duner Wi]

My retainer was NOT flat so I made my gasket multiple layers to fit the NOT flat retainer. That has not leaked yet for a couple of years.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

It wouldn't open when I tried. Wasn't sure why. I had looked at the YT site but could not find what I wanted. Makes no sense to block a link like that. Bad business if you really analyze it. I refer to competitors all the time when I have to. Builds good reputations. But it is their site to do with as they wish. Thanks for the info on the engine!

 

[Dave H (MI)]

Thanks Jim! Just what I needed to know!

 

[JimB2]

Hi Dave, the engine serial number should be on right side of crankcase just above the crankcase breather and should start with C-169.
Although Dad had a late 1957 model 300U and it had a C-175 engine in it like the 350U.

 

[56Utility]

I also own a 300U with the C-175 engine. I wish I could have seen the original post because I am going to split my 300U very soon. This information is very helpful.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

Send me an e-mail. If I can figure out how, I will send you a document with my notes from here. Lots of good info.

 

[Dick S]

Been quite a while since I split my 300U, but some observations and suggestions which may be helpful:

The difference between the 169 and 175 cu in engines is only in the size of the cylinders and associated parts. The rear main seal is the same on both. The seal retainer for the rear main on this tractor has a tendency to get warped -- if you put it back with a warped retainer and new gaskets, it will still leak -- when I first got my 300U, it went back to the dealer several times before this was discovered -- they certainly didn't make any money on that repair. If memory serves me right, it may be helpful or necessary to remove the oil pan for this repair.

While you're in there, take a look at the clutch and TA front oil seal -- the other main reasons for splitting the tractor.

When I split my 300U several years ago, I used a generic engine hoist for the moving half; at this point I don't remember which it was, but I think it was the front. Whatever else you do, DO NOT USE CONCRETE BLOCKS FOR SUPPORT; wood works, with the weight perpendicular to the grain.

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

I sent you the info.

 

[56Utility]

Thanks Dave!

 

[Dave H (MI)]

Much appreciated, very helpful! I am still scratching my head on the need to drop the oil pan. I am going to put up some pictures if I ever get more than 5 minutes desk time to ask again about this. Probably Saturday. I cannot see why the pan needs to come off as it is not integral to the rear of the engine like in a Cub, for example. Pics this weekend.