Reality Check

[Moki]

I paid to have a rear engine seal put in a Ford/New Holland TS110. Since the tractor is still leaking oil from the same rear spot, and since it does not appear that the engine pan was taken off to replace the seal, my question is: can the rear engine seal be replaced in these tractors by breaking them in half and doing it from the back without taking the pan off? I need to know this before I go off half cocked and say something that I shouldn't. I have to assume the work was done, but it is still leaking oil and it shouldn't be. Also, I have been told to get it out in the field and really warmed up before making a final assessment. I am doubting that warming up the engine is going to make a difference in a leaking seal but maybe someone here can help set me straight.

 

[farmsjake]

I never heard of having to warm up a engine to stop the rear main seal on a engine from leaking. I think that guy is smoking something.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Sorry, I don't know that tractor/engine. But any Ford or New Holland built since 1965 you would probably not have to remove the pan to replace the seal. Not sure.
I wonder though if it is still leaking you might have a leaking front seal in your tranny. I think if I was the mechanic doing the work I would have replaced those front seals while I had it split.

 

[oldtanker]

I agree with dog, Jerry seems to know what he's talking about. I split a 1206 International this winter for a clutch and replaced the rear main seal, the IPTO shaft and seals and tranny input shaft seals because I wanted trouble free operation for a few years. If I was splitting a tractor for a rear main or having it done I'd reall take a close look at the clutch and componants while it was apart. Yes I'd have the dealer give me a call when split and let me have a look if I was paying to have it done. That's a lot of work/money just to have to do it over again when that 500 dollar clutch went south after 20 hours.

The big question is whats on the bill? How many hours? Splitting a tractor isn't a 2 hour job. I know that with the help of a friend, in a shop with stands and air tools it took us about 12 hours to do the clutch on my 1206 and about 14 for his 986. Makes me wonder if they didn't dump some mechanic in a can in yer engine and charge you for replacing the seal. That would be the only reason I can think of to tell you to run it in the field to get it really warm. New seal should seal. Mechanic in a can has to have time running at op temps for the chemicals to work.

Rick

 

[RodinNS]

I really can't say that I've looked at a TS rear seal...
I can guarnantee you that the only way to change it IS a split tho. The catch is... it's probably also a stepped stud block (this is the part I'm not sure about as to wether or not is is a stepped stud block)... bottom line is that stepped stud blocks also have an aluminum seal retainer housing and a paper gasket where it's fitted to the block... and it could as well be the gasket that leaks rather than the crank seal... and if they didn't change the gasket... ya still have yer leak. Going to the field and getting hot won't change the facts of the matter either.
Again... I don't know if this block has the gasket and retainer or the old style side wedges on the bearing cap.... but my money is on the retainer.
A perusal of parts online would tell you.

Rod

 

[kyhayman]

I've not been in a TS but if its like the others Fords I've done, none of them yet have I pulled the oil pan but its got to be split.

 

[Moki]

Thanks, that is what I wanted to hear. They'll do it over if it doesn't stop leaking, but I've been trying to be clear on what I'm looking at. Sounds to me like they did it right but something went wrong or was missed. Thanks again! Things happen -- I've seen that on bumper stickers....