Rear axle nut problem

[Cutty]

Found my rear axle nut on my left wheel very loose today, I could turn it by hand, went and got out my manual and it shows a washer, nut and snap ring. I found mine had three mismatched washers, a chewed up nut that looked like it was tightened with a pipe wrench and no snap ring! The other wheel was the same but at least it was tight. can't tell by the pic how the snap ring works, Does it actually fit in the groove on the nut? If so, how does it lock the nut to the axle? Why would some moron use three washers? I don't have any leakage and my brakes work well.

 

[ooticamitica]

one of my axles had 3 washers staggered small to large, other side had 2 tighten her up real tight and order partsfor a refurb.

 

[souNdguy]

if you can tighten her up and have no hub play you are ok.

who knows why.. maybee bad threads on the axle closer in?

soundguy

 

[Cutty]

What about the snap ring? Does it go in the groove on the nut? Or is it on the axle outside the nut? If it's on the nut how does it lock the nut to the shaft? or does it?
Thanks

 

[Cutty]

OK I just saw a better picture of the nut and snap ring on this site's parts page. Obviously the end of the snap ring goes through a hole in the groove of the nut and protrudes through to a hole in the axle. My concern now is, if my axle needs all those washers because of buggered threads or something then the hole or holes in the axle won't line up with the hole in the nut. Any workaround for that? Drill another hole in the axle? Axle too hard to drill?

 

[souNdguy]

investigate it before you make any decisions.

soundguy

 

[Dell (WA)]

Cutty.......the "extra" washers are an attempt to tighten up the worn tapered spline hub. $70 (cheap) You NEED a NEW HUB. Remember that BIG NUT is torqued to a gutt-bustin' 450ft/lbs. ........Dell

 

[wickedsix]

Yup, mine would loosen up until I was actually able to get it torqued to near that, then I never had any problems again.

 

[Cutty]

(quoted from post at 13:31:12 03/24/10) Yup, mine would loosen up until I was actually able to get it torqued to near that, then I never had any problems again.

450 pounds??? No wonder he used a pipe wrench, probably with a six foot cheater on it too. I ordered new nuts and snap rings, guess I better look into new hubs too. What size wrench or socket do I need for those nuts? I have an impact that's supposed to put out 550 pounds torque, they never seem to be as good as they're rated for though.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Cutty........the BIG 8N rear axle nut is 2-in. You can NOT strip the hardened axle thread, so torque away. Yeah, 6-ft cheater bar annna BIG GRUNT. Iff'n yer sphincterly challenged, you can "rent" a 3/4"-drive torque wrench. ......Dell, the gruntless

 

[TimPa]

i think the nut is 2"

 

[Cutty]

(quoted from post at 15:14:16 03/24/10) i think the nut is 2"

hanks for the info guys. I recently picked up two 1 1/2" wrenches at TSC for $5 each on the clearance table so I could take the blades off my newly acquired (old) bush hog. Guess I better go back and look for a 2 incher or an impact socket.

 

[JW Axtell]

(quoted from post at 15:45:25 03/24/10)

(quoted from post at 15:14:16 03/24/10) i think the nut is 2"

hanks for the info guys. I recently picked up two 1 1/2" wrences at TSC for $5 each on the clearance table so I could take the blades off my newly acquired (old) bush hog. Guess I better go back and look for a 2 incher or an impact socket.

I finally broke down and bought the Chinese 3/4 inch drive set that TSC sells for about $60.00. Well worth it

 

[boomer632]

Cutty..

I just went through the same ordeal but my whole wheel and hub came off while I was driving the tractor. The threads on the axle will strip if the hub is loose and bangs back and fourth on the nut. Previous owner said he replaced the axles seals due to oil leaking on to the brakes / wheels. Well after learning about these machines.. I found that he ignored the root of the problem (worn seals from loose hubs) and just replaced the seals, using the worn hub. This fixed the oil leak temporarily but the hubs continued to deteriorate, eventually leaking again, then destroying the axle threads. I found my axle threads were stripped on one side when I put a new nut on. The new nut would jump the threads at about 5 lbs of torque. I bought a set of used axles. Nuts are cheap.. axles not so much.. I decided to replace all seals, bearings, cups, hubs and brakes on both sides. My advice.. if your going that far.. replace all you can afford. If the axle threads are ok.. I would say replace at least the hubs, seals and brake shoes.

 

[JW Axtell]

(quoted from post at 09:42:33 03/25/10) Cutty..

If the axle threads are ok.. I would say replace at least the hubs, seals and brake shoes.

It's not only the threads you have to check. Sometimes the threads can be cleaned up. Maybe even more important are the axle splines themselves. If they are worn due to a faulty, worn hub then they have to be addressed by either replacing or an emergency and temporary spline shim