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Rear axle removal. 1401d

Yesterday's Tractor Forums
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69s1-HT

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How do I remove the r/r axle to replace the leaking axle seal? Its a my 1401d 4x4 w/a PTO. I'm not that familiar with tractors and need some advice. I have removed the tire, hub, etc. and am now looking at the side trans case. Do I have to go in thru the PTO to remove clips?a any info/instruction greatly appreciated. Jerry <E>:?:</E>
 
You have to remove a bolt from the end of the axle (#23) then pull the axle out. To get to the #23 you have to remove your three point lift assembly.

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Once I have it open all I need to do is take the bolt off the end of the axle and pull the bull gear out of the way and the axle will slide out then tap the new seal into the housing then slide the axle back in put the gear in place and bolt down?
 
Ok so what is the key to getting to bolt #23 there is no way to get your hadn't down to the bolt. I have everything apart and can't get to the bolt on the axle.
 
I think yours is like this 155. <LINK_TEXT text="https://www.extern...ear-axle-seal-replacement.216355/</LINK_TEXT>
 
Ok so I guess I have to take the whole side cover off in one assembly. I am assuming from the article the brake drum and everything will stay intact. Is the bearing on the end of the axle pressed on or is it just held on by the bearing? Thanks for the help.
 
What would be the inside bearing should just slide out of the transmission housing. When you get the whole axle housing off then the bearing, gear, collar, etc. will be held on the shaft with #23. At least that is what I think I see. <E>:mrgreen:</E>
 
<QUOTE author="warburtonplayer"><s>
</s>Also I am working on the right side with the differential lock will all of that come off intact with the side cover?<e>
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/e></QUOTE>

No, that will be in and stay in the transmission housing.
 
Ok so once I pull all the bolts everything should come out as one unit and then I can take the two bolts out slide the axle out pull the seal then repeat. I just don't want to pull the cover and gears and bearing fall out. Thanks for the help.
 
Never been there done that, just basing my theory on what I see in the parts drawings. No warranty on my end. <E>:mrgreen:</E>
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s>Never been there done that, just basing my theory on what I see in the parts drawings. No warranty on my end. <E>:mrgreen:</E><e>
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/e></QUOTE>


There is going to be dowel pins in the big cover so work careful to come off square.
 
Ok I got everything back together on the housing what is the key to getting the housing back onto the tractor? I have tried to gently tap it on and it will only go so far I tried tapping on the end of the axle and it pushes the axle in too far. I also tried treading the bolts on and tightening them down little by little and that would not pull it back together. Let me know what the key is to getting it back together easy. Thanks
 
Wish I had an answer for you. Dowel pins lined up? Gears turned to mesh with others? Bearing lined up good with transmission housing? How far off is it?
 
Wish I had a good answer for you. You might consider removing the hydraulic housing up top. This might give a view of what is not lining up. Just something to ponder. I know from experience a bigger hammer is often the wrong choice. Where are you located?
 
Ok so I got it back together and the axle seal is still leaking and its brand new from Hoye. Maybe the axle is worm down?? What is the exact size of the axle where it rides in the seal so I can measure it to make sure that is not the problem. Thanks
 
Don't know the exact axle diameter but the seal is to be 45x70x12mm, the 45 indicates shaft size. If your axle is worn it would likely have a groove cut in it where the seal lip runs.

I suspicion you may have got a 48-70-12 seal which fits the 1300. All I know for certain is that the 1401 parts manual calls for a 45-70-12 seal. 3mm difference is .118". Might surely make a difference.
 
I input the part numbers from the parts manuals into the Hoye "search" fields. There is actually two parts manuals for the 1300, the 1st edition shows the 48 seal, the newer addition shows the 45 seal. Evidently they made some changes along the way. The 1401 manual I have access to shows the 45 seal.
 
Ok so I put the new seal back in the housing and flipped it upside down and put fluid in it and it did not leak. Put the whole assembly back on while jacked up no leak. Dropped the tractor on the ground and it started to drip again. Could the bearings be bad when weight is put on the axle?
 
"If" you have the correct seal installed, no grooves on sealing surface, axle straight, then a bad bearing could certainly seem likely. It would seem to me if the bearing is that bad then with the wheel off you should be able to feel or see movement up and down or sideways has you move the axle by hand.
 
Does your axle have any evidence of grooving or wearing? If not, speedi sleeve should not be needed. I have uses a speedi sleeve before, not sure just what on.

Based on your last post I think you need to check your bearings closely.
 
The factory style seal on the 1401 uses an integrated wear collar and the assembly can be a little finicky. A standard seal seems to be a little more tolerant but just does not have that wear collar built in. I agree with Winston that if you axle is moving then you should double check your bearings and find out why.
 
Ok so I got two new bearings and another axle seal. Put everything together it was fine on the jack stands once on the ground and the axle turned it started to pour fluid out again!! I really don't know what to do at this point the axle has no burs or grooves I polished it could the axle be bent? The inside of the case and transmission housing is good with no grooves or burs the bearing rides fine inside the transmission housing with no play. Any thoughts?
 
Wow! Do you have any micrometers or dial calipers? Maybe check shaft size? I'm sure you have turned it while looking for a bent axle?? Bearings fit tight on shaft and in housing?
 
Could not see any bends in the axle not sure what the correct size should be with a micrometer. All the bearings fit tight in the housing and the case is not cracked.
 
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Is this with the tractor running and how long is the tractor running between no leaks and leaking? I'm just wondering if a vent tube might be plugged or something is causing pressure to build up?

Does the seal fit tight on the axle and in the housing (ID and OD are a tight fit)?

My suggestion is still to just try the regular seal that I sent you in your support ticket. The seal/sleeve assembly seems to be less forgiving to imperfections for some reason and, with a regular seal, you can see exactly where it is leaking.
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I put a brand new OE seal that you recommended, the tractor was sitting when the work was done once I started it and moved it it started to pour out. The seal is nice and tight on the axle but as soon as the axle starts to rotate it leaks. With the tractor on a jack it is not leaking but when I rotate the wheel by hand it will start to leak. I only ran the tractor for a few min and drove around and it was pouring out so I put it back on the jack to stop the leak.
 
It sounds like something still has to still be moving once it gets weight on it but I do not really understand what or why.

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Ok so I got two new seals and I got the speedy sleeve yesterday along with another axle I am hoping this will work. The sleeve fits tight inside the seal so I am hoping this will fix the problem. I ordered another axle just to see if it is any larger than the current one on the tractor.
 
So the tractor is back together I put a new axle seal in it not the factory style with the metal ring but the one that Aaron recommended without the metal ring on the outside. I also put a speedi sleeve in it also and it seems to be good. It only took 4 seals and pulling it apart four time to fix it. The only thing I can guess is the original style seal with the metal does not allow any flex in it and that is why it was leaking.
 
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