Rear ballast

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
We had very little left over concrete

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Looks as if you thought ahead. Good deal. That barrel can swing back and forth and bend the crap out of the PTO shaft. Need that third point hitch. Great!
 
I have one of those that has sat in the same place for over 25 years. I can not see using something like that when a back blade or other such thing can be used as weight and still also be used for work
 
Looks like it is at the top of the steel sticking out the top and the cement has a clearence groove when it is raised up. I would also make sure that sway bars are attached. That much weight swinging side to side could break a lift arm.
 
How can you say I'll bend the PTO?
Before it will come intact with PTO, it will hit the draw bar.
I made sure it would work .
Took 3 attempts.
George
 
I'm getting a complex. Everything I built is wrong. My concrete guys don't know what they are doing . Only thing I'm good at building us a death machine.
The ballast took 3 attempts to properly position the bar and the upper link.
 

What jeffcat said was that YOU THOUGHT AHEAD and made YOUR barrel with the top point for the center link so it WON"T swing and bend the PTO shaft.
 
Don't panic.....everyone is saying you did a good job. Looks very nice. Different tractors work differently. The tractor I have is the international harvester fast hitch. Works very differently than three point. Dad didn't figure making it for three point and when he backed up one time the barrel swung with the hitch adapter bars and did a number on the PTO Shaft. Nice all day project and parts costs to fix it. Had to take the Matabo grinder and cut everything apart. Did the bands while we were at it.
 
I wish you?d make me one but the freight on it might be little high . You?ll never keep the yt corps of engineers happy just don?t worry about em.
 
Looks good to me.

When working in a confined space like a barn or around fencing or what have you, such a weight is far better then hanging an implement back there sticking out and running into things.

Paul
 
John,
pic may not show I had to drill 3 sets of holes to position the bar in the proper place not to hit hitch and notch out concrete for the top link. All my redneck engineering projects require T&E, 3 T&E on this ballast.
geo.
 
8 to 900 #.
I made this for neighbor. Estimate it at 1200+# and it's farther back.

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I made

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300# bar bells. If I extend back arm all the way out, the front end of the terramite comes off the ground. Stops when ballast hits the ground.
 
Well you should see mine-yours is beautiful next to mine. I blew 2 holes in mine and 'tack' welded a top link bracket to the front, and filled it with cement filled concrete blocks and rocks and maybe some gravel. It sits inside or it would have rusted out by now. I saw one at an auction that the metal rusted off of, but it was made like yours and was still very usable. VERY handy in tight quarters! Mark.
 
(quoted from post at 14:37:29 01/17/20) I have one of those that has sat in the same place for over 25 years. I can not see using something like that when a back blade or other such thing can be used as weight and still also be used for work

Rich, I was carrying a bunch of fill rock into some very tight places. I had to take my bush hog off the back cause I couldn't get where I needed with it. I have a little Kubota L3301. Very narrow wheel stance. I about stood the thing on its nose a time or two. Enough to scare me. I was keeping the front loader bucked almost on the ground and creeping along, but I was having to go downhill, on very rough ground. Next day had Jims tire service out of Sedalia Mo. fill the rear wheels with washer fluid. Best money I ever spent. But I am going to make me one of those weight barrels. Gene
 

In an ideal world the ballast would be bolted to the wheels . Instead of stressing the three point hitch and axle bearings .
However this is not an ideal world.
 
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