Rear Tractor Tire Question

KCTractors

Well-known Member
Location
Central Wi
I needed a 14.9 X 24" tire for a Ford back-hoe that has a 14.9 X 24" - 6 Ply tire on it now. I picked up a nice 14.9 tire yesterday from Ag States Salvage yard that is a hour and a half away. I just noticed that it is a 12 ply tubeless tire. My question is will I be able to mount that tire on a regular tube type rim and get a tube in it? The bead is very stiff compared to the 6 ply tire.
 
I needed a 14.9 X 24" tire for a Ford back-hoe that has a 14.9 X 24" - 6 Ply tire on it now. I picked up a nice 14.9 tire yesterday from Ag States Salvage yard that is a hour and a half away. I just noticed that it is a 12 ply tubeless tire. My question is will I be able to mount that tire on a regular tube type rim and get a tube in it? The bead is very stiff compared to the 6 ply tire.
Yes, and yes. It will just be a bit stiffer to work with.
 
I needed a 14.9 X 24" tire for a Ford back-hoe that has a 14.9 X 24" - 6 Ply tire on it now. I picked up a nice 14.9 tire yesterday from Ag States Salvage yard that is a hour and a half away. I just noticed that it is a 12 ply tubeless tire. My question is will I be able to mount that tire on a regular tube type rim and get a tube in it? The bead is very stiff compared to the 6 ply tire.
Should be able to do so but yes it maybe be twice as hard to do as the one you have now
 
I don't buy the tubeless rim/wheel story. I've put tires on both with and without tubes on rims of all kinds. It is a tough call though since most of these new tires will go to leaking through the bead or sidewall in a few years so you then have to knock one side down and put a tub in them even tubeless tires. Then on the other hand most of the tubes you can get are junk new. Yes you can put a tube in it. IF you are real careful you could put the tube in the tire then put it on the rim. You do run the risk of pinching the tube between the tire bead and your bar or the rim/wheel and the bar. Either way you could have a hole that way. I just did one that way on a wheel that was narrow and makes for a harder time getting the tube in and the stem through the hole.
 
I don't buy the tubeless rim/wheel story. I've put tires on both with and without tubes on rims of all kinds. It is a tough call though since most of these new tires will go to leaking through the bead or sidewall in a few years so you then have to knock one side down and put a tub in them even tubeless tires. Then on the other hand most of the tubes you can get are junk new. Yes you can put a tube in it. IF you are real careful you could put the tube in the tire then put it on the rim. You do run the risk of pinching the tube between the tire bead and your bar or the rim/wheel and the bar. Either way you could have a hole that way. I just did one that way on a wheel that was narrow and makes for a harder time getting the tube in and the stem through the hole.
If you compare a tube type rim and a tubeless rim you will see that they are not made the same way. I learned that when I was working at a tire place in town and the man who owned the place died a few years back. But his company is still in business and sells tires made for antique cars and trucks. Kelly's tire .com
 
12 ply loader tires aren't that bad to deal with.
Tube -
Seating the bead is much easier.
Holds pressure better.
Can run lower tire pressure.
Must be more careful mounting the tire. Should the tire get punchered. The tube must be removed to perform a repair.

Tubeless -
Smaller emergency repairs can be made using tire plugs.
Harder to get the bead to seat.
Must maintain enough tire pressure to prevent bead from unseating when working.

Yes they're differences in tube and tubeless type tractor rims. They have different bead profiles and the placement of the valve stems are different. Going tubeless on a tube type rim can be done. But the risk of leaking around the rim is greater as is the chance of the tire breaking the bead under heavy loads.
 
12 ply is correct for a backhoe (TLB). 6 ply is not strong enough to handle the weight of the heavy backhoe over the long term, with regular use. The rim is designed for the heavier tire. Might even be designed for tubeless, but you can still use a tube.
 
That only works if it is a tubeless rim. If the rim was made to have a tube in it then it has ot have a tube or it will not hold air well
I am not sure why you say that. I don't know what rim he has but I have yet to see a rim that won't hold air. I did see a tub type rim once that had been welded together from factory that had not ground the weld down where the bead sat. I ground it smooth and never a problem. I find putting a tube in a rim designed for no tube way worse as I have seen where the valve stem was caused the tube to bend un naturally and rip the tube.
 
I am not sure why you say that. I don't know what rim he has but I have yet to see a rim that won't hold air. I did see a tub type rim once that had been welded together from factory that had not ground the weld down where the bead sat. I ground it smooth and never a problem. I find putting a tube in a rim designed for no tube way worse as I have seen where the valve stem was caused the tube to bend un naturally and rip the tube.
In the years I worked on tires I have seen many tube type rims used with out a tube and people didn't understand why they went flat all the time till I showed them thing like rivet leaks or bead leaks and then show them the difference in the bead on the tube type and tubeless rims and yes the bead area of the 2 are not the same
 
In the years I worked on tires I have seen many tube type rims used with out a tube and people didn't understand why they went flat all the time till I showed them thing like rivet leaks or bead leaks and then show them the difference in the bead on the tube type and tubeless rims and yes the bead area of the 2 are not the same
Of course the old riveted rims sometimes leak around the rivets, but I don't think they've riveted rims in the last 50 years. Never had a problem with the bead seating on a rim that had a tube and was converted to tubeless.
 
12 ply loader tires aren't that bad to deal with.
Tube -
Seating the bead is much easier.
Holds pressure better.
Can run lower tire pressure.
Must be more careful mounting the tire. Should the tire get punchered. The tube must be removed to perform a repair.

Tubeless -
Smaller emergency repairs can be made using tire plugs.
Harder to get the bead to seat.
Must maintain enough tire pressure to prevent bead from unseating when working.

Yes they're differences in tube and tubeless type tractor rims. They have different bead profiles and the placement of the valve stems are different. Going tubeless on a tube type rim can be done. But the risk of leaking around the rim is greater as is the chance of the tire breaking the bead under heavy loads.
Of course this probably doesn't apply to a backhoe, but tubeless tires can have problems if adding tire ballast. I don't know about the beet juice, but any mixture of water, and especially calcium, will be bad for the rim if ran tubeless.
 
Ok so then elaborate on the difference. I've got both wheels/rims here and I don't see a difference in them. Some came with tubes and some didn't .Now Automotive wheels have what was called a safety wheel/rim with a ridge around behind the bead just a small ridge so the bead stays on the edge like when blown up, so you don't have the bead come off and cause problems for steering so much like if it were to fall back into the center of the wheel /rim or come off the rim/wheel and then get caught in some part of the chassis making for an accident or worse. That is not on implement wheels /rims and I've never seen it on ag wheels /rims nor other off road applications. Just on automotive applications like cars and pickups. As for possibly leaking through rivets yes it could and how many riveted wheels /rims do you see anymore other than on old equipment like tractors or implements. As for the bead they make a bead sealer you brush on the bead before inflating and it will seal a bead so it doesn't leak. I use it on rims /wheels that somebody has banged hard with a hammer,chisel or has rusted bad and may not seal without some help for it.
 
A plus one on modern tubes being junk. Ugly corrosion on the bead surface means using
welding hammer to knock chunks off then wire wheel grinder and then flap disc grinder
to make mating surface smooth enough to work. Paint comes next to prevent rust as
much as possible. Work and time I know but it beats fixing flat at the worst time AND place.
Bead sealer is a must on tire and tubeless valve stem. Modern synthetic rubber doesn't flex
like old natural rubber and needs all the help it can get.
 
Ok so then elaborate on the difference. I've got both wheels/rims here and I don't see a difference in them. Some came with tubes and some didn't .Now Automotive wheels have what was called a safety wheel/rim with a ridge around behind the bead just a small ridge so the bead stays on the edge like when blown up, so you don't have the bead come off and cause problems for steering so much like if it were to fall back into the center of the wheel /rim or come off the rim/wheel and then get caught in some part of the chassis making for an accident or worse. That is not on implement wheels /rims and I've never seen it on ag wheels /rims nor other off road applications. Just on automotive applications like cars and pickups. As for possibly leaking through rivets yes it could and how many riveted wheels /rims do you see anymore other than on old equipment like tractors or implements. As for the bead they make a bead sealer you brush on the bead before inflating and it will seal a bead so it doesn't leak. I use it on rims /wheels that somebody has banged hard with a hammer,chisel or has rusted bad and may not seal without some help for it.
I've seen old rims I would not try to use a tubeless tire on. I've replaced rims on tractors where the rim has been ruined with calcium chloride. When ordering the new rim there was no choice offered between tube type or tubeless. I've got multiple tractors here with four rear tires. They are a random mixture of tubeless, and tubeless with tubes in them. One tractor has beet juice in all four, two are tubeless and two are tubeless with tubes. The tire guy who does my work now has some liquid he likes to put in tubeless (off road) tires which he says keeps the interior of the tire supple.
 
That only works if it is a tubeless rim. If the rim was made to have a tube in it then it has ot have a tube or it will not hold air well
Yep, most tube-type rims have a plastic protector between rim and tube stem. The thing is, rear tractor tire tubes are scarce these days, and the rim liners are NLA.
 
I needed a 14.9 X 24" tire for a Ford back-hoe that has a 14.9 X 24" - 6 Ply tire on it now. I picked up a nice 14.9 tire yesterday from Ag States Salvage yard that is a hour and a half away. I just noticed that it is a 12 ply tubeless tire. My question is will I be able to mount that tire on a regular tube type rim and get a tube in it? The bead is very stiff compared to the 6 ply tire.
I installed the 12 ply tire this morning with the rim on the tractor. I purchased a 52" tire spoon and I still needed another 4' pipe to put over the spoon but I gotter done. I did put a new tube in it. Thx guys.
 
Of course this probably doesn't apply to a backhoe, but tubeless tires can have problems if adding tire ballast. I don't know about the beet juice, but any mixture of water, and especially calcium, will be bad for the rim if ran tubeless.
I have never had any problems adding ballast to tubeless tractor or backhoe tires. I have used windshield washer fluid, Camper antifreeze, automotive antifreeze, beet juice and even methanol. None of them have harmed rims.
 
I am not sure why you say that. I don't know what rim he has but I have yet to see a rim that won't hold air. I did see a tub type rim once that had been welded together from factory that had not ground the weld down where the bead sat. I ground it smooth and never a problem. I find putting a tube in a rim designed for no tube way worse as I have seen where the valve stem was caused the tube to bend un naturally and rip the tube.
Lay the wheels side by side and the difference is immediately obvious.
 
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