Rebuilding a B Governor

[Jason_1936]

I've rebuilt or corrected most everything on B in the past, but I haven't worked on a governor...yet. I have one to do now and I'm a bit nervous about it. Any advice out there? I'm afraid of getting noisy bevel gears when it's all done.

The fanshaft has to be removed to replace the shaft bearings but I'm afraid when I do that the gasket shims won't seal, and if I replace them I won't get them the correct thickness and then the bevel gears will howl.

Thanks all...

 

[PBrowning]

Jason, perhaps a reading that would be helpful for starters is found in the URL cited below. Go around the part on JD-H LH Bearing Housing (pages 3 & 4), and all of the remainder of the piece is applicable to your tractor. (PatB)
Governor Operation, JD H Tractors

 

[Walt in Jaxn Tn.]

Is this a 1936 "B"?
In the parts catalog for B60000 to B200999 shows a bushing B 432 R that the lever shaft B 270 R rides in. I replaced the John Deere bushing with a bearing supply house bushing because the John Deere bushing was tapered inside and caused the lever shaft to be worn in a small area near the top of the shaft. The bearing supply house bushing was not tapered inside and was able to use the good unworn part of the lever shaft, thus correcting a lot of slop in the linkage and decreasing engine surge and increasing engine speed control.
This was in a 1941 "B" B104581 that I owned. The bushing was dropped after serial# B 144809 with steel drill rod (lever shaft) to castiorn housing, no bearing.
--Walt--

 

[Jason_1936]

Sorry about that, this is a '45-'46 B, but the serial number range is the same as yours Walt. Good idea on the bushing/bearing install. I'll have to look into that, do you have the bearing manufacturer and number that you found worked?

Still looking for more ideas/thoughts about the fanshaft/governor alignment. I do have SM 2004 which I've read over several times, just doesn't seem to be sinking in.

Thanks.....

 

[Mike M]

When you pull it apart try to be careful with the shim gaskets and save them or what pieces are left. This way you can measure them with a mic and then use new ones of the same thickness.

This may be fine if you don't change much or to use as a starting point if you have to change alot of things.

Best way to check the adjustment is just like the book shows. Clamp the gov. housing in a vice with the bottom exposed and the fanshaft pointing straight up into the air. You can reach in there and feel the back of the gears "heel" to make sure they are even. And then you can mount a dial indicator against the face of the gear teeth to measure the backlash. Check in several spots as these gears usually aren't made even and vary from one spot to another. Ending up too loose is going to be better then too tight.

 

[Walt in Jaxn Tn.]

Jason, I just took the two parts, shaft and bushing to the local bearing store and they matched it up to a oil inpregnated bronze bushing.

--Walt--