Rebuilt A engine startup issue - additional info

[belairbob]

Thanks for all the advice! I pulled the oil pan and the only place I see with coolant drops is on 2 or 3 of the cam lobes. The bottom of the sleeves are dry as well as the sides of the block. Mrfred54 the machine shop checked for cracks when they reconditioned the head. For kshansen I did compare the old gasket to the new as I have had that issue with an engine years ago. So I guess I just need to go ahead and pull head as it appears to be leaking in an area around the push rods. Do yall use any sealant on the head gasket? Also there was not an indication on the new gasket as to which side goes up. I just assumed either side was ok.
Further thoughts?

 

[Mrfred54]

I believe the gasket can only go on one way,otherwise all the holes will not line up. There is a difference in gaskets if you have or do not have a waterpump. Pretty sure all As did not have a waterpump. Far as a sealer, alot of guys use copper spray a gasket. I have in the past but I now spray the gasket with high temp silver paint. I give it 3 coates , both sides. 15 minute intervals. After third coat I get it together as quick as I can, before it dries. Heard about the paint years ago and have had real good results. Also torque the head from the center and working to the ends in three steps.also recommend retorque after first warm up and relash the valves.

 

[wore out]

Do you have the valve cover removed so you can see the top of the cylinder head to look for any coolant that may be leaking up there somewhere and finding it's way to the pushrod area, then down to the ''basement''?

 

[kshansen]

(quoted from post at 21:27:22 12/08/22) Far as a sealer, alot of guys use copper spray a gasket. I have in the past but I now spray the gasket with high temp silver paint. I give it 3 coates , both sides. 15 minute intervals. After third coat I get it together as quick as I can, before it dries. Heard about the paint years ago and have had real good results. Also torque the head from the center and working to the ends in three steps.also recommend retorque after first warm up and relash the valves.

I have done it either way, but actually don't recall what I did to my BN over 30 years ago.

What ever you do don't be tempted to use any of that silicon sealant. Yes there are times and places for that stuff but this is not one of them!

Hope you have time and a place to work on this and figure out just what the problem is!

 

[560Dennis]

I use permatex copper sealant on the steel side only head gasket I use. Other side is graphite ,sealers wont stick to that very well.
Dont use to much sealer Im told cause it will squeeze into studs and not allow the head to draw down properly. Just a light coat .
My head gasket requires a retorque procedure , also . Try calling the mfg. technically help for advice on what they recommend.

 

[gene bender]

sealant not letting the head down THOSE old wives tales will never end

 

[belairbob]

I pulled valve cover this morning and looked down each push rod hole. I can see where the pushrod enters the block and the part of the gasket that surrounds the pushrod hole. It appears to have a small amount of coolant around one of the holes. So I guess that means there is a head crack in that area or the gasket is leaking on the head side. This is the push rod that is next to the rocker arm shaft mid point area were it attaches to the head via a stud and nut. Ill pull the rocker arm shaft assembly and dry around it as much as possible. Maybe I can watch and see if that part of the head oozes some coolant.
Thanks for all advice!

 

[belairbob]

The old gasket was steel on both sides and did not have any sealer. It was marked as to which side goes to the top. The new gasket has a steel side and a graphite side and is not marked as to which side is top. Which side, steel or graphite, should be top?
Thanks!

 

[560Dennis]

Its been awhile ( last year ) steel side goes down to block ( with. Sealer ) . Graphite is up to the head .
Check with mfg tell you .to be sure .
I advise to run a thread die down the 1/2 20 thread to make sure your torque is not a false reading do to rusty crusty build up give you a false torque. Also run 1/2 20 clean out tap through the 1/2-20 head nuts , lube with 30 wt oil .
I clean my block with brake cleaner and brass platers wire brush . Got to be clean

Put sealer on head gasket wait til tacky, put steel side down on block , torque head from inside out sequence in the I T manual. I torque in stages 35 pound , 50 pound s and 65 pounds . Wait 30 minutes for sealer , then fill with water . Run it for thirty minutes and retorque .
Reset valve lash hot .
I repeats this ,retorque warm up head about two weeks later . Reset valve lash hot
What I do ,if mfg. say different do what they say.

 

[belairbob]

Well I started to remove the rocker arm shaft and found that the nut on the midpoint stud was not tight! What are my chances that this is the problem? At the bottom of this area is where it appears to have a leak. Ill let it sit a few days and check the oil pan for coolant.
Thanks!

 

[the tractor vet]

Ah i will not use that style of gskt . I learned first time around . I use only Victor OEM as yes they make two . You more then likely have a garbage FelPro . Victor O E M is a steel copper like org. qand a light coat or copper coat and a quality torque wrench that has been recal. not long ago solves most all problems . only othr thing would be if your new sleeves are not set proper. OR the block is warped . I did have at one time a problem with a head that on the first round of inspection did not reveal and coolant leakage or cracks BUT once head warmed up she leaded . Nobody wants to check for crack the old way that takes up to much time and is messy . only my one friend still did it that way and that way was to run 190-210 degree water thru them till the head was HOT then apply 30-40 lbs of air pressure to it , If there was a crack into the water jacket you found it fast. .