Recommendations for non-iso painting

[Challenger]

I have two Cubs that need painting. I have limited experience in painting and am not qualified to use the iso hardeners. Obviously, I am not interested in show room quality but I would like to do the best job possible. I have the two set HF HVLP gun set. What is your recommendation for the best non-hardener paint approach? I am interested in hearing your thoughts from the prep work to the primer to the paint and to the finish coat. Thanks.

 

[ARCADIAINC]

Just went through this with my 800 Ford. Fortunately
NH dealers have paints that are a close match and does not require hardeners. Understand the primer to use is epoxy. Tisco has many colors of tractor paints that may or may not be used with hardeners. I have been told that Tractor Supply sells Tisco. I plan on keeping my Ford washed, polished and waxed and keep it in the shade. Another option if you have a color swatch is to go to an automotive paint retailer and they will color match you a gallon.

 

[ARCADIAINC]

Did not address the prep work. My Ford was in bad shape. Very rusty. I used oven cleaner, liquid and gel paint remover, power washer, wire brushes, Dupont pads, Side grinder, sand paper, Some careful use of a sand blaster, soda blaster, orbital jig, various sanding blocks, electrolysis and anything else I could find to remove the old paint. This obviously is a lengthly and major job. Once done I had a stripped tractor with patches of rust. This I treated with rust converter. After sanding the treated areas, if rust was still showing, I used more converter until the rust was gone. After using the converter there is a white powder residue. This must be removed. Again, sand paper, soap and water, power washer, whatever works. Now with a clean tractor, shoot a couple coats of lacquer thinner. Do not touch! Follow directions and shoot with the primer of your choice. After the primer has dried shoot a mist color coat. Once partially dry, shoot the final coat. You may want a couple coats of paint. Your choice. I feel I spent way more time in prep than most. My choice. In a couple years if my paint is fading it should be easy enough to prep and repaint with hardener. If I have a fresh air system and think I am qualified. The above is primarily for the chassis. I followed the same procedures for the sheet metal except the rust holes were repaired with boat builder's epoxy and fiberglass cloth. A far better product that polyester resin.

 

[El Toro]

Here's my garden tractor I painted without any hardener. For the best results you need to do the preparation that's been suggested. My tractor has always been sheltered and there wasn't much rust. The rims were rusty and I used a wire brush with a 1/2 inch drill motor after I had power washed them. I also sanded
them and the tractor. I removed a lot of the parts and painted them separately. I used an epoxy primer, then sprayed them with Dupont's surfacer. I like Martin Senour's Primeez better. The light cream color is Dupont's Centari acrylic enamel and the blue is New Holland's acrylic enamel. That paint was $18.00 for a quart. This was done this past Spring when the temp was in the low 70's. Hal

 

[CNKS]

Use epoxy primer on everything -- true epoxy, an example is PPG Omni MP 170. The catalyst for most, possibly all epoxies do not contain Isos. BUT, check the MSDS to be sure. The catalyst for MP 170 is iso-free. Follow that with IH 2150 or DuPont 96766/PPG 71310 acrylic enamel, neither requires hardener. If your Cubs were made before mid 1949, the paint was IH 50 (not available premixed), it can be mixed as PPG 7410/PPG 70019. The sheet metal should have a sandable surfacer over the epoxy as epoxy does not fill imperfections as it is not sandable. An example is PPG Omni MP 181. The preparation is as noted in other posts, except for the final cleaning I use wax and grease remover. I would stay away from ALL the tractor store paints unless they can prove to you that it is an acrylic modified alkyd enamel or acrylic enamel-- straight enamel will fade in the sun.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

I don't know. I think the only qualification you need to shoot paint with hardner is a brain. Research the past several months posts where I was painting my Cub. Ask questions on what confuses you. Buy the recommended equipment...it's not that expensive. Go for it. I spent many weeks prepping. I can tell you that a couple parts I had trouble cleaning have problems with adhesion and will be re-shot. 20 years ago I painted a part on a Ford blade with red Rustoleum. Cleaned it very well including an acid dip for rust. Looks like new today. Prep is everything! In addition to what the other fella said, after the lacquer thinner rinse I used Oil and Wax Remover (basically Naptha from the label) and then went to painting as soon as dry. You would be amazed what the regulars on this forum can walk you thru!

 

[El Toro]

Another good primer is acid primer. I used it on these wheel weights over 35 years ago and I never put a finish coat on them. They just had light surface rust that I wire brushed off. Hal

 

[Challenger]

Thanks for sharing all the knowledge, which I find very helpful. I welcome any other thoughts you may have on this issue.

 

[RandyB(MI)]

Can't believe you went to all that work and won't remove all that white from your tires. Good job otherwise. Just an observation , not poking fun.

 

[El Toro]

I like whitewalls. Hal

 

[David G]

It is not too tough to paint with ISO hardeners, as long as you use breathing air. I think they give you a better sheen.