Reconditioning Farmall Super A

[serieous]

Hi, I'm getting an old Farmall Super A ready to work in the garden. It has sat for a few years, but I did get it fired up yesterday. Carb needs some attention, but it does start and run, and will pull itself around the yard. I will have a look at the carb, and change the engine oil & filter, grease it, etc. I will change the tranny and rear end oils and the hydraulic fluid. What should I be putting in the tranny? The rear end? Thanks.

 

[Janicholson]

*0-90,or 85 120 Gl-4 or GL-5 (if it is OK with brass. Jim

 

[Dave BN]

Transmission and rear end are the same fluid cavity. It also lubes the belt pulley. Takes 1 gallons I think. You should also change the final drive fluid. You have to take the pans off the bottom of the final drives and dump the old oil out. Then clean up the inside of the pans and put them back on. Don't over tighten the bolts. Refill thru the plugs on the front side of the axles just above the pans. Each side should hold 1/2 gallon.
Dave

 

[serieous]

Thanks

 

[560Dennis]

I recommend like the manual a sae 90 weight gl1 mineral oil that bronze compatible ,you got bronze bushing in the tranny .

 

[LMack]

Try draining the carb by removing the drain plug on the front side of the carb. If it does not run free, then the bowl filter may be clogged, or a clog exist somewhere else. There should be a screen on the inlet to the carb that could need cleaning. My 200 had set up since finishing garden plowing last year, the carb had water vapor that needed to be drained out, the tank bowl screen needed cleaning, and there was a blockage in the tank tap. Once the fuel flow through the carb was a full stream, it ran fine. Back when I used one of these regularly (1960's) we would not use the tractors from fall after corn harvest until spring plowing. They tended to not run well until the first tank of gasoline was burned through, and all the gel and trash was flushed out of the gasoline tank, tank bowl, fuel line, and carb.

 

[560Dennis]

Suggest you pick a warm day to change the 75 year oil out your tractor. Park tractor so sun heats up the differential Helps. You will need something like paint stick to open up the sludge to get it started to flow out. Have plug handy so to stop flow if needed . Have a large collection pan, and large oil drip pan to save clean up time. Dress up for a dirty job it is. And be patient might take a few days to drain all out.
Also suggest the tools,
large wire flexible bottle brush to help pull sludge to drain that hangs up.
flexible magnet to search for ferrious metal , like possible floor sweeping put at factory as a practical joke. I found wire, pin, broken snap rings , gear teeth would indicate a need to take top off to investigate. Done four tractors 2 had foreign material in them . Not related to the tractor .
I suggest use kerosene as a flush out stubborn sludge After draining stop. Drain out flush after driving your tractor with flush. Help to have a rolling drive location sloshing around.
Hope this help to give some ideas as to what might expect

 

[serieous]

Try draining the carb by removing the drain plug on the front side of the carb. If it does not run free, then the bowl filter may be clogged, or a clog exist somewhere else. There should be a screen on the inlet to the carb that could need cleaning. My 200 had set up since finishing garden plowing last year, the carb had water vapor that needed to be drained out, the tank bowl screen needed cleaning, and there was a blockage in the tank tap. Once the fuel flow through the carb was a full stream, it ran fine. Back when I used one of these regularly (1960's) we would not use the tractors from fall after corn harvest until spring plowing. They tended to not run well until the first tank of gasoline was burned through, and all the gel and trash was flushed out of the gasoline tank, tank bowl, fuel line, and carb.

Thanks for the hints LMack. I removed the gas tank and rinsed it out with fresh gas, several times. I removed the sediment bowl, and cleaned all the passages, and gave it a new screen and gasket. It now has fresh gas and runs fine, and idles down. Starting is a little tricky, but a quick jerk on the choke lever will usually start it.