Recurring injector pump problem

Fritz Maurer

Well-known Member
Got a stanadyne pump on a D 340 Hercules. This will be the third season that the pump cover has to come off and the metering valve un-stuck. We all know it's today's fuel, so.... at the end of the season I plan to suck the housing dry and fill it with oil, or something, but what? I was going to look around for some very light oil, maybe kerosene. Motor is on a giant vac and it sits around 9 months until fall cleanup.
 
Got a stanadyne pump on a D 340 Hercules. This will be the third season that the pump cover has to come off and the metering valve un-stuck. We all know it's today's fuel, so.... at the end of the season I plan to suck the housing dry and fill it with oil, or something, but what? I was going to look around for some very light oil, maybe kerosene. Motor is on a giant vac and it sits around 9 months until fall cleanup.
i think ATF is good to keep things unstuck. seems to have a lot of detergents in it to prevent gumming. I know people who ad a liter to every tank on there semis when they fuel up. says it is great. no idea how they know.
 
I prefer two cycle motor oil, about 1 quart to 30 gallons. I've seen less parts sticking using it. Also, KEEP THE TANK FULL as a full tank won't sweat and draw moisture condensation like one that's not full. I don't like ATF because it will stain the road fuel if that's used and you will get in trouble when fuel is checked because it will look red. Water in fuel can stick the metering valve too.
 
Got a stanadyne pump on a D 340 Hercules. This will be the third season that the pump cover has to come off and the metering valve un-stuck. We all know it's today's fuel, so.... at the end of the season I plan to suck the housing dry and fill it with oil, or something, but what? I was going to look around for some very light oil, maybe kerosene. Motor is on a giant vac and it sits around 9 months until fall cleanup.
I use hydrotex essential lube in any pump that is going to sit.
 
i think ATF is good to keep things unstuck. seems to have a lot of detergents in it to prevent gumming. I know people who ad a liter to every tank on there semis when they fuel up. says it is great. no idea how they know.
even if u can pour some oil in the final filter then run it a bit before shut down, and yes on the 2 stroke oil. atf belongs in transmissions.
 
Use the 2 cycle oil or mix some engine oil with diesel fuel and pour it in the tank with it low then run it long enough to get the mix in the pump then fill the tank. Or just on the last day of use pour in about a qt to 20 gallon of engine oil and run till you are done then shut down after cool down. Again We must be lucky so far. We have tractors set from fall till spring and they start right up .Then set till late summer or fall and again start up. Some may set from spring till needed and still work. Which may be about 6-12 months. Either that or my fuel guy is doing a very good job of additive in the fuel. The guys my brother buys fuel from must also. Since we mix fuels running one place then the other back and forth.
 
Well I thought stanadyne fuel condioner would do the trick ,add some at every fill- up, but so far it failed.

Im liking this adding it to the fuel filter trick, would save a heap of work since they're spin-on.
 
Got a stanadyne pump on a D 340 Hercules. This will be the third season that the pump cover has to come off and the metering valve un-stuck. We all know it's today's fuel, so.... at the end of the season I plan to suck the housing dry and fill it with oil, or something, but what? I was going to look around for some very light oil, maybe kerosene. Motor is on a giant vac and it sits around 9 months until fall cleanup.
Is the fuel tank above or below the injection pump?

IMHE, I've seen the most problems when the IP is higher than the fuel tank and the fuel slowly bleeds back to the tank over time, draining the I.P. of fuel and leaving the metering valve high and dry so any "varnish" on it sets up and sticks it. NOT so much when it's below the tank and always "'flooded" with diesel fuel
 
Is the fuel tank above or below the injection pump?

IMHE, I've seen the most problems when the IP is higher than the fuel tank and the fuel slowly bleeds back to the tank over time, draining the I.P. of fuel and leaving the metering valve high and dry so any "varnish" on it sets up and sticks it. NOT so much when it's below the tank and always "'flooded" with diesel fuel
It is under the engine, but the metering valve was always submerged whenever i took the cover off previously...

I hope those dam plungers aren't stuck .... Just spent 1600$ on this thing 2 years ago.
 
It is under the engine, but the metering valve was always submerged whenever i took the cover off previously...

I hope those dam plungers aren't stuck .... Just spent 1600$ on this thing 2 years ago.
Did you remove the cover AFTER cranking it a while when it wouldn't start, or remove the cover "proactively" before cranking it after it's off season nap?
 
You got me on that one.... I unwittingly filled it up.
I wonder if you put a couple of valves in the feed and return lines and shut them off before the period of non-use, keeping the pump from draining back and keeping the metering valve submerged if that would help, be a simple fix
 
I wonder if you put a couple of valves in the feed and return lines and shut them off before the period of non-use, keeping the pump from draining back and keeping the metering valve submerged if that would help, be a simple fix
Thinking back, that thing did have a slight drain back problem.... every morning it would start promptly and die, then start right back up again.
 
I've always used Stanadyne lubricity formula mixed with diesel, storage or no. It's not the best, but the bang for the buck factor has always been there.

The latest "research" says the Optilube XPD is the bees knees for lubricity, and that's coming from all the diesel pickup guys with the CP4 problems.
 
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