redkote and baffles

rluscomb

Member
Is it true, firstly I have an 8N 1950 12V conversion, w/front dist. Is it a waste of time to kote a tank w/baffles in it? I called redkote directly, they said if it had baffles dont waste my money on any type of tank sealer. They said use rocks, muratic acid, and acetone. any comments on this. Thanks
 
I did the rock thing on a Ferguson TO 20 gas tank and all I really accomplished was to trap a bunch of rocks behind the baffles. The tank never polished up like I'd hoped for and the result was it needed to be replaced.

As far as coating with baffles not sure but record 1 vote against rocks.
 
(quoted from post at 13:35:16 11/23/10) Is it true, firstly I have an 8N 1950 12V conversion, w/front dist. Is it a waste of time to kote a tank w/baffles in it? I called redkote directly, they said if it had baffles dont waste my money on any type of tank sealer. They said use rocks, muratic acid, and acetone. any comments on this. Thanks

Correct, but forget the rocks. They'll get stuck behind the baffles. and you won't get them back out. Use the acid, rinse several times with water, then use the acetone to dry up the water. The red kote is used only if you have pin holes rusted through, and if that is the case, you would be better off to find a better, or a new tank.
 
I like to put a large handful of 5/8-inch nuts and bolts in the tank and add soap and water, after you put a pipe plug in the outlet hole on the bottom. I just lay the tank on the floor in the back of my van and haul it around a few weeks. All that stuff rattling around in there really helps get things loosened up. Then, after you dump all the soap and water out, you can flush it with clean water and then fish the nuts and bgolts that didr't fall out on their own out with a mefhanbic's magnet. You can get it nice and dry inside by flushing it out with a quart of Xylent - paint thinner that all True Value stores carry. Then - here's the neatest trick - buy a quart of commercial plumber's drain cleaner and pour it in the tank. Slosh it around a while and hold a rag over the filler hole and turn it upside down to get the inside top, too. This stuff will make the tank look like brand-splinter new inside in about five minutes' time.

CAURION; This stuff is ACID. Don't breathe it while it's working, pour it out carefully and flush the tank with water, when you7'ree done. If the tank is sound, it's ready to go. If it has pin holes, now's the time for RedKote, IMHO.

Good Luck
Dave Erb
New Hollad, PA
 
I've used Red Kote on several n gas tanks. I followed the instructions on the Red Kote can. I did not use rocks.
 
Don't matter what you use, but, nuts and bolts are better, count them when you start, count them when you're finished. The whole method is a PITA !! but it works. HTH
 
Rocks, nuts & bolts, and your choice of cleaning fluids probably will do the job. I'm not wild about coating the tank though.

As far as cleaning action, didn't someone report good results by strapping the tank to the outside of one of the rear wheels for a day or two? Pretty sure I read that trick here.

Doug
 
Yeah herd the same thing about strapping tank to tire and letting it turn for awhile. I do appreciate all the tips, definately wont use rocks. Thanks guys and have a great Thanksgiving!
 
I used square nuts, a blanket and a tie down strap for my job several years ago. Ran it on my rear wheel for a few hours and dumped out the rustiest mess you ever saw. Followed with POR-15, and that tank is still in service today.
 

I used the acid trick on a tank for an M farmall 10 years ago. Followed up with red-kote, and still was having issues with rust, so I did the acid a second time, which also took out the red-kote. This time I did not use the red-kote, and never had another problem.
 
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