picked up a 641, rewiring back to push button start, 3 wire 12v... has 4 post relay, 2 larger post, starter and battery, 2 small post, S and I, S i have going to the push button start and I going to the block ignition, what am i missing? i get good ground when i push button to the S connector

thanks dave



This post was edited by vidaliaman on 04/08/2023 at 05:21 am.
 
(quoted from post at 07:36:10 04/08/23) picked up a 641, rewiring back to push button start, 3 wire 12v... has 4 post relay, 2 larger post, starter and battery, 2 small post, S and I, S i have going to the push button start and I going to the block ignition, what am i missing? i get good ground when i push button to the S connector

thanks dave



This post was edited by vidaliaman on 04/08/2023 at 05:21 am.
will guess that "block ignition" means hot when ignition is ON. If so, then most likely cause is incorrect 'relay' (solenoid). There is more than one circuit type that has 4 terminals , labeled the same & look the same, but function differently. The I terminal on a "wrong" type was to apply battery voltage to coil during start and is activated with voltage applied to S terminal, whereas the "right" type for your tractor is activated with ground to one small terminal and battery power to the other small terminal.
 
As JMOR said, there are a number of solenoids that LOOK the same externally but have different internal wiring.

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You want a ''Circuit 4'' solenoid, and the BASIC wiring is as below.

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wonder if i have the wrong relay? ordered from YT#105689, i can jump from bat side of relay to starter side and it pops the
starter, i have 12v to I terminal with key on, i have continuity when i press starter button to the s terminal through the
ground,this is going to turn out to be something easy
 
You need to start with the ESSENTIAL MANUALS; get the Original Operator's Manual, I&T FO-20 Service Manual, and the'53-'59 MPC. You don't need a 12V starter motor or Solenoid (Relay). Relay uses 3 wires. GEN & VR are removed when doing a 12V conversion and in place is an ALT, 1-Wire or 3-Wire, DELCO 10SI typical, with a belt tensioner device to maintain fan belt setting for water pump and to charge the battery. The correct Starter Relay (Solenoid) is p/n FAB-11450-B, $25, and is 3 wires, not 4. dash wiring junction block, p/n 8NNN-14448, $10, Neutral safety Start Pushbutton, p/n 8N11500 $25, all available at Dennis Carpenter Reproductions. Also required is an external 1-OHM resistor if using the 6V coil. Eliminate if you swap out to a 12V coil. The distributor must be rebuilt to OEM Specs: nothing changes regardless if 6V or 12V is used. Here are some documents:


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https://i.imgur.com/dlcGHwkl.jpg
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In-line external 1-OHM Resistor required if using the 6V Coil.
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ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

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Tim Daley(MI)
 
here is discription of the relay i bought from YT... Relay assembly, 12 volt, 4 terminal. Grounded through the base(do i have the wrong relay?

thanks dave
 
(quoted from post at 08:24:58 04/08/23) here is discription of the relay i bought from YT... Relay assembly, 12 volt, 4 terminal. Grounded through the base(do i have the wrong relay?

thanks dave

Grounded thru base is the wrong relay
You want one with a isolated ground
112395 is the one you need but you can also use 105690

This post was edited by Destroked 450 on 04/08/2023 at 06:54 am.
 
(quoted from post at 08:24:58 04/08/23) here is discription of the relay i bought from YT... Relay assembly, 12 volt, 4 terminal. Grounded through the base(do i have the wrong relay?

thanks dave
Double post

This post was edited by Destroked 450 on 04/08/2023 at 06:57 am.
 

Most ANY local auto parts store would have the SS-567 solenoid (or it's equivalent in the brand they sell) on hand or have it overnite with no freight.
 
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