reman generator

Nic Jeffries

New User
FINALLY got generator back from rebuilder shop. 1950 8n side mount dist. 6v genny with three wire terminals. rear plate was installed 180 degrees off so that little oil hole with the flapper is at the bottom. my question is, if I pull said plate off by removing two long bolts and turn it over, will parts fall out or unwind or anything like that?
 
Nic,If you remove the two long bolts that hold the generator together,and hold the generator together with the bolts removed.Just tap or pry the rear end plate back 1/8" or just enough to get it to turn 180% then put the long bolts back in it.But it should have a small line up pin between the end plate and main housing that may be missing.
 
(quoted from post at 22:38:31 07/08/11) Nic,If you remove the two long bolts that hold the generator together,and hold the generator together with the bolts removed.Just tap or pry the rear end plate back 1/8" or just enough to get it to turn 180% then put the long bolts back in it.But it should have a small line up pin between the end plate and main housing that may be missing.
a think the Field-to-brush lead is long enough to make that wrap?
 
(quoted from post at 16:39:56 07/08/11) FINALLY got generator back from rebuilder shop. 1950 8n side mount dist. 6v genny with three wire terminals. rear plate was installed 180 degrees off so that little oil hole with the flapper is at the bottom. my question is, if I pull said plate off by removing two long bolts and turn it over, will parts fall out or unwind or anything like that?

Nic, you will need to take the brushes out of the brush holders in the end plate.

Then rotate the plate and replace brushes in holders, then put it back together.

trouttman
 
(quoted from post at 11:00:25 07/09/11) Thank you guys, I am trying to learn without costing extra oops money.
have no idea how you are going forward, but you had better sift the advice you have been given here or you will be buying new field coils, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:15 07/09/11)
(quoted from post at 11:00:25 07/09/11) Thank you guys, I am trying to learn without costing extra oops money.
have no idea how you are going forward, but you had better sift the advice you have been given here or you will be buying new field coils, etc.

I think I would be going forward by taking it to the shop that did the work and having them fix the problem. I hate messing with those dang brushes - got to be an octopus with little hands....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:44 07/09/11)
(quoted from post at 11:31:15 07/09/11)
(quoted from post at 11:00:25 07/09/11) Thank you guys, I am trying to learn without costing extra oops money.
have no idea how you are going forward, but you had better sift the advice you have been given here or you will be buying new field coils, etc.

I think I would be going forward by taking it to the shop that did the work and having them fix the problem. I hate messing with those dang brushes - got to be an octopus with little hands....

TOH
xcellent! The shop created the problem, let them fix it. They have been paid already & furthermore if they mess it up, it will be their problem not yours. I ALMOST never have work done, so I typically just jump right in.........no doubt the reason I didn't think of TOH's response.
 
The entire housing would have to be rotated for this to happen.Let the shop fix their mistake.I still use punch marks on motors,starters, generators when I take them apart.
 
It can be done, but as several have suggested, you paid for a repair that was not done properly. Take it back and raise a little h--- if you have to, but make THEM fix it! My neighbor had the starter rebuilt on his truck, it didn't work properly, so he went to a parts house and bought a reman. trading in his old one for a core. This meant he lost about fifty bucks. This is how a lot of places stay in business. Because people get PO'd and go elsewhere rather than make them fix their mistakes.
 
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