Remote problems $800 to rebuild?

[dieselfume]

So, I've been fighting issues on one remote on my 4630 for over a year now. occasionally all winter it would spit out a hose on the bale processor. (lever never flipped forward) hooked it up to the hydroswing this summer, and the same remote I noticed running a bit slower than what should be normal, but I ignored it, trying to press to get done with haying before it burnt up. the remote continued to spit hoses out till one day it spit the same hose out 3 times in one pass, and by the time I got it back in the 4th time, the remote would no longer raise/lower the implement. it tries to go one direction, but obviously one side is not allowing any flow. Double checked to make sure hoses were engaged, and levers flipped, but still nothing.

Asked my Deere dealer how much to overhaul it, they tell me $800 plus parts. my jaw about dropped.

Also this remote has been converted to the pioneer type setup. Suggestions?

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

If the dealer does it and replaces all the valves that price is about right.Contact TimS on this site and he will do it cheaper but you have to pay shipping. He has done four of mine and I am very happy. He has a test bench so he can make sure everything is right before returning it.I have one or two of the old style outlets that are worn enough that we wrap a wire around the lever to hold it from releasing. Tom

 

[Jd7020]

Send it to Tim S, he has o rings that will be better then you get at Deere.

 

[DONMYEIL]

Could be as simple as an O-ring or a bad hose end or a combination of the two .

 

[cornerpost]

On that tractor valve and coupler all in one. About 12 years ago cost me about $500. Sure your turtle valve not closed?

 

[Cliff Nelson]

Your dealer is way overpriced on labor for a couple hours work. I do several a year here in sw wi usually in the $300-$500 range for parts and labor. Parts can add up on a 30 series if the rocker is worn plus updated detent if it is an early one so figure on the high end. Tim S will do it right and as said can fully test it before returning it to you.

 

[fdt860]

$800 just in labor is a steal. I cannot see how they can charge that much for such a "simple" assembly, with 10 bolts and 4 screws to adjust.
It is a price that someone would put if they do not want to do it. You can get a rebuilt from worthington, abilene, tractorpartasap for that price.

 

[tim s]

Yes I can repair them for you with better parts than Deere uses. A few years back I was frustrated with the un-succesful attempts to repair the valves, so I started to inspect the reasons for the failures and came up with a different way to address them, most of the things are just basic issues,, 1 is dressing up the barrels before they are reinstalled,polishing up the surface where the o-rings work and most of all dressing the rear ends where they get tapped with hitch pins or what ever is handy to get them to release, this piens the end to where when it is reinstalled it 'plows' a furrow through the new packing, another is "not" using the spiral backing rings they tend to let the tails slip over the o-ring and give a place for oil to follow past I also use a quad ring instead of a round ring which gives a better seal I do this with the handle valves too,, also I check the bore on the back side of the barrel opening, some times the "tapping" of the barrel to release it gets a bit Violent,and will pein the opening to where the barrel drags hard, for this I have a ball hone to give it a bit of a chanfer.On the poppets I replace them and inspect the seats check the spring lengths and you must be sure you put the longer springs on the pressure poppets if not it will not go into float position, also at this point make sure the flow valve has the handle on correctly, many times if the handle has been removed it will get reinstalled 180 degrees out, at this time while the poppet springs are out I remove the operating handle and replace the 2 o-rings there, again be sure the handle is clocked right when you put the roll pin in, after all that I re adjust the clearance on the poppet cams too loose and the lever in the cab or console has too much travel,, too tight and the valves will be held open a bit,,then after all that I set it on the test bench and operate it on full 2250psi pressure to make "sure" all that I did came out okay...as far as the hoses not wanting to stay in there are a few things that play into that, one is worn coupler balls, they should be inspected and 2 the outer ring for the coupler balls can be worn, that too needs to be inspected and 3 the dimples where the cam levers latch can be worn, for this I use a dremel to re-define the dimple or notch, and 3 the spring under the E-clip holding the cam lever can be weak, I replace those,,and Of course number "4" reason is the most normal reason,, the darn hoses are hanging heavy on the couplers and the jiggling as you work pulls them loose, or a tight turn,, tarp straps are still the best way to deal with that keeping the hoses from hanging on the couplers.. I charge a flat $250 for the repair and it takes about $280 for parts plus shipping, I pay attention to detail and the bench test proves the result. And the dealers have "way" more over head than I do,,and not near the experience or test stand that I have..

 

[dieselfume]

Sounds like I need to send it to you Tim when I get the chance to have the tractor down for awhile. I had the hoses tarp strapped up because I too thought the hoses were causing the "pop out" issue. Still though, that never helped, so I know that there is something wonky with that valve assembly.

I'll get in touch with you soon and appreciate you help!

 

[tim s]

Any time you want,, I try to turn them back as quick as I can..

 

[Tedtex]

I too have sent 4 of mine off one tractor to the dealer complete with the specific list of symptoms as they requested. Their repair lasted a couple of months. I came across my "symptom" list some time later and the units still had the same problems. Your best bet is to send them to Tim. Tim suggests pack them in a 5 gallon bucket, (the kind with the air-tight leak proof snap on lid), they hold up well during shipping.