removing a broken bolt

[riverbend]

'47 Cub
I'm working on the front end and the grub screw in the right side steering arm broke off 1/4" inside the casting. Has anyone had any luck removing one like that ? Drilling through the center could work. Is there a better way ?

 

[Brownie450]

Drill & try an easiout. If no luck with that, take a thick washer
slightly smaller center hole & weld in a circular motion inside
the hole to attach it to the stud. Let cool a bit & weld a nut
onto the washer. Back & forth with a wrench & lube.
Jim

 

[560Dennis]

Use small washer to punch center with center punch . Use center drill starter drill entry. I would used plenty of penetration fluid . Little heat from butane torch if outside to get the penetrating oil to soak into the threads of the broken stub . I used left handed set of drills I got at Autozone tool isle to drill it out .

If your good with a mig welder and it busted off flush you can weld a nut to the stub and back it out .
Couple of examples .if you got these tool options.

 

[Charlie M]

There are a bunch of You-tube videos about removing broken bolts by several different methods. Might want to take a look.

 

[John in Ct]

If you are 1/4 inch down they make a coller/ bushing that will fit in the hole and center the drill bit for drilling.

 

[Willow Lane]

One other suggestion, get a left hand twist drill and use it to drill it out (with the drill in reverse} If you are lucky, the drill will catch and screw the bolt right out.

 

[riverbend]

The collar for drilling is a good idea. I'm sure I have some tubing that will fit in there.

Will the later arm (356 712 R1) work on on the earlier tractors ? There are lots of them around.

 

[Jim Becker]

Information specific to THIS part: It usually breaks because it was run loose. The remaining piece probably is loose in the hole. Adding heat is pointless. A left-hand drill may back it out. If not, you may be able to break it up with a chisel/punch. Either way, stop as soon as enough is removed to lift the arm off the shaft. Do not try to drill it out of the shaft. The hole in the shaft is tapered and drilling is likely to do more damage to the taper. The tapered hole goes all the way through the shaft. Once the arm is out of the way, the remainder of the setscrew can be easily knocked out with a punch.

There are coarse thread and fine thread versions of your arm. They interchange. A later third version clamped on with a key. It uses a different shaft and does not interchange. I don't have a parts book handy to know if you quoted the number of the early/fine arm or late arm. All three are rights and lefts.

 

[riverbend]

The part number is for the arm held with the tapered screw. It makes sense that it was run loose because they had a stack of lock washer instead of a jam nut. Good to know about the taper going all the way through the trunnion (king pin ?) shaft. I'll pull the arm off the other side and see how it is all laid out.

 

[Ray,IN]

One other suggestion, get a left hand twist drill and use it to drill it out (with the drill in reverse} If you are lucky, the drill will catch and screw the bolt right out.

If not lucky and the bit breaks off in the stub, the only option is find an EDM machine and an experienced user.

 

[chico1]

I had the same issue on both my '49 Cubs. Both had been welded. I ground the weld off and removed the arms. There was a hole all the way through the shaft on both of them. A 1/8 pin punch fit nicely and easily pushed out the broken piece. Maybe I was lucky and someone drilled the holes but I just figured it was factory.

 

[countryman]

I drill a 1/4 too 3/8-hole, heat to cherry red that will shrink the bolt, use the square type of easy outs for a better bit.

 

[riverbend]

Removed it with an easy-out. One of the few times it has worked for me.

 

[300guy]

I would agree with that!!!!!

 

[mazzrod]

Use small washer to punch center with center punch . Use center drill starter drill entry. I would used plenty of penetration fluid . Little heat from butane torch if outside to get the penetrating oil to soak into the threads of the broken stub . I used left handed set of drills I got at Autozone tool isle to drill it out .

If your good with a mig welder and it busted off flush you can weld a nut to the stub and back it out .
Couple of examples .if you got these tool options.

I agree with Dennis but when you try to back it out go a little back and forth until it feels like it's moving don't get in a hurry it it is in a hole that goes all the way thru clean the threads as best you can then shock it with a punch you might get lucky and after drill with a bit lube the hell out of it and try to back it out good luck

 

[Jim Becker]

Post 13. He got it out!

 

[560Dennis]

I think Good suggestions are timeless .

I agree with Dennis but when you try to back it out go a little back and forth until it feels like it's moving don't get in a hurry it it is in a hole that goes all the way thru clean the threads as best you can then shock it with a punch you might get lucky and after drill with a bit lube the hell out of it and try to back it out good luck

 

[Fritz Maurer]

A period once in a while would make it easier to to decipher

 

[Brown David]

A period once in a while would make it easier to to decipher

Where's yours?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Where's yours?

You got me PERIOD