ugabulldog
Member
I want to inspect/repack wheel bearings on my 245. How do I remove hubs from spindles? Do I need to take off hubcaps (do they screw in)? I have manual but it doesn't say and I couldn't tell from looking at. Thanks
DavidP, South Wales
Well-known Member
Hi,
As has been mentioned the caps do unscrew. Save the gasket if you can. Inside you will find that the hub is held on with a castellated nut with a split pin in it which goes through the end of the spindle as well. Jack up the tractor on whichever side you are starting and secure it with an axle stand. Remove the s/pin and nut. Waggle the wheel slightly and the outer bearing race should move out. Remove it and pull the wheel off slowly. On the back face you will see the grease seal. Prise it out carefully if you plan to re-use it. Remove the inner race. Clean all parts. Inspect the inner faces of the rings for any pitting or damage. If any is found the bearings should be replaced. Inspect the metal frame that keeps the rollers apart on each race. If the rollers are loose in the slots or even fall out, the bearings must be replaced. The photo shows the slots in the hub to punch out the bearing rings. Use a brass punch if possible. Note the position of the rings before removal. Max diameter on the outside of each ring. Pack the new bearings with grease before fitting. Tap the new seal into place. The bearings and seal are normally supplied as a kit.
With the hub fitted, fit the nut until hand tight. Fit the wheel and nip up at least two wheel bolts. Hold the wheel in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rock it to check for play.
Note the direction of the hole in the spindle. Tighten the nut one flat at a time to align with the hole and check for play. When all play disappears spin the wheel and check again. You may be able to tighten one flat. If not, go back to the next one. There MUST be a small amount of play. The wheel must not be tight. When done, open the new split pin. Refit the cap and grease.
At the first sign of grease passing the seal stop. The job is now done.
DavidP, South Wales
As has been mentioned the caps do unscrew. Save the gasket if you can. Inside you will find that the hub is held on with a castellated nut with a split pin in it which goes through the end of the spindle as well. Jack up the tractor on whichever side you are starting and secure it with an axle stand. Remove the s/pin and nut. Waggle the wheel slightly and the outer bearing race should move out. Remove it and pull the wheel off slowly. On the back face you will see the grease seal. Prise it out carefully if you plan to re-use it. Remove the inner race. Clean all parts. Inspect the inner faces of the rings for any pitting or damage. If any is found the bearings should be replaced. Inspect the metal frame that keeps the rollers apart on each race. If the rollers are loose in the slots or even fall out, the bearings must be replaced. The photo shows the slots in the hub to punch out the bearing rings. Use a brass punch if possible. Note the position of the rings before removal. Max diameter on the outside of each ring. Pack the new bearings with grease before fitting. Tap the new seal into place. The bearings and seal are normally supplied as a kit.
With the hub fitted, fit the nut until hand tight. Fit the wheel and nip up at least two wheel bolts. Hold the wheel in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rock it to check for play.
Note the direction of the hole in the spindle. Tighten the nut one flat at a time to align with the hole and check for play. When all play disappears spin the wheel and check again. You may be able to tighten one flat. If not, go back to the next one. There MUST be a small amount of play. The wheel must not be tight. When done, open the new split pin. Refit the cap and grease.
At the first sign of grease passing the seal stop. The job is now done.
DavidP, South Wales
DavidP, South Wales
Well-known Member
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ugabulldog
Member
thank you, great write-up!!
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