Removing rod bolt tips

[Alexander1997]

I’m removing the rods from an MM Z.
I wanted to get them out, as well as the jugs, to be sent off for a valve job, rings, hot tank cleaning

I can’t get any of the bolts to budge even a hair, using a regular socket.
What do you guys recommend? Has anyone done this on a Z? I was thinking breaker bar next, but I just want to be very careful and methodical and not ruin a crankshaft

 

[teddy52food]

Use the breaker bar. You won't hurt the crank.

 

[Alexander1997]

Use the breaker bar. You won't hurt the crank.

That's what I was thinking too.

 

[560Dennis]

I try mapp torch with flame cone one the head of the bolts before I use any breaker bars , just to expand the length of the bolt releases the pressure .
wonder why it’s that tight. Did they file the caps down to get the sloppy bearings tight .

 

[Sberry]

Bump them with impact.

 

[used red MN]

I try mapp torch with flame cone one the head of the bolts before I use any breaker bars , just to expand the length of the bolt releases the pressure .
wonder why it’s that tight. Did they file the caps down to get the sloppy bearings tight .

I think he is just being over cautious and maybe hasn’t worked on or around mechanical things to much. Growing up on a farm I kind of relate things to what the hitch and hitch pin had to withstand to pull an implement, the biggest tractor we had was 120hp. That crank is a pretty hefty piece of iron. Hooking and pulling a 3 bottom plow to any spot on that crank would harm it none as long as the surface could be protected. Not sure if anyone has tried to physically pull a one bottom plow, if you have had your hand on a shovel you probably have a pretty good idea of what it takes. I think he just tried to loosen then with a short little ratchet. I looked up the torque for those it is 65 ft lbs. It doesn’t look like that crank and rod is all rusted up most likely when he pulls the bolt out the threads will probably still be oily. I think he is a long way from needling to get out a torch. Just my honest opinion.

 

[Alexander1997]

I think he is just being over cautious and maybe hasn’t worked on or around mechanical things to much. Growing up on a farm I kind of relate things to what the hitch and hitch pin had to withstand to pull an implement, the biggest tractor we had was 120hp. That crank is a pretty hefty piece of iron. Hooking and pulling a 3 bottom plow to any spot on that crank would harm it none as long as the surface could be protected. Not sure if anyone has tried to physically pull a one bottom plow, if you have had your hand on a shovel you probably have a pretty good idea of what it takes. I think he just tried to loosen then with a short little ratchet. I looked up the torque for those it is 65 ft lbs. It doesn’t look like that crank and rod is all rusted up most likely when he pulls the bolt out the threads will probably still be oily. I think he is a long way from needling to get out a torch. Just my honest opinion.

I grew up on a farm as well. But yes, this is the first time I have ever been this deep into an engine. I’ve done light mechanical stuff, ran plenty of tractors, but this is my first restoration so I do admit.. I’m probably being a bit overly cautious. I just think the world of this old machine and don’t want to do anything to harm anything. Sounds like I’m good to go on removing this though and I appreciate your input! I’d much rather come here with questions and get good info & help, before I try anything.

 

[Phill Tibbetts]

If you drill them out I would only use left hand drills and be very careful to be in the center and perpendicular with the stud.

 

[Janicholson]

Use the breaker bar. You won't hurt the crank.

No issue. Using a 1/2" impact wrench is also normal for removal (not reinstall!!) Jim

 

[560Dennis]

#2 cap goes to #2 rod . check the others . Cap and rods only go one way When assembled ,they have to match up as designed.
I recommend the about subject like this in resources up in articles written in the YT header . Good reading for reference
Get a part organizer to hold everything then it will go back together , projects drag on in time so it important to take many pictures for future assembly.

 

[Alexander1997]

Just coming back to say thanks to everyone who helped. I used a 1/2 drive pull handle and got the rod bolts loose, pistons out for a ring job and new jugs with valve job in from Minnesota, so the restoration is slowly making progress. Thanks for all the help !

 

[560Dennis]

Thanks for the comments ,unique engine you’re doing . Very informative!

 

[GermantownGreen]

Just coming back to say thanks to everyone who helped. I used a 1/2 drive pull handle and got the rod bolts loose, pistons out for a ring job and new jugs with valve job in from Minnesota, so the restoration is slowly making progress. Thanks for all the help !

Don't forget to use some pre lube on those items when going back together. Lucas or white lithium grease, ask at your Parts store.
Good luck.
More pics as you go!
Always good to see that experienced machinery get some TLC. GG Wes