Replacing brake hardware question.

[RedMF40]

I’m replacing the front caliper on my F250 SD. Already did the other side a little while back. Is there some quick way to get these little springy retainers on the back side of the new pads? I remember struggling with this. Just take out the slider bolts to gain access or is there another way? Thanks for any help. Gerrit

 

[Kitt]

Those are to provide a slight retraction of the pads. I accidently left them out during brake maintenance on my F250. Brake pedal feel was much improved. I would recommend leaving them out.

 

[RedMF40]

Those are to provide a slight retraction of the pads. I accidently left them out during brake maintenance on my F250. Brake pedal feel was much improved. I would recommend leaving them out.

That’s what I did. Truck drives and stops normally. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Hobo,NC]

That’s what I did. Truck drives and stops normally. Thanks for the suggestion.

You remove the caliper from the mount, install the mount then the springs and the caliper. I never have installed them as an assembly and never will. What comes out of the box is separated and inspected, the pins check for function and lube. The pads are fitted in the mount and filed on to move freely. The caliper bleeder is removed and inspected, the banjo bolt fit checked. The final test is to put wood blocks in the caliper and air check it.

I have seen pins with no lube and poor fit.
Pads with a poor fit.
Bleeder holes that have been repaired and do not function.
Banjo bolts that don't fit the wrong bolt are damaged out of the box.
Caliper pistons that don't retract, the piston dust boot not installed correctly.

Air check the caliper fill it with wood blocks with a littler space (1/4") for the pistons to move. Apply a little air enoufh to make the piston flex outward. Remove the air the piston should have a slit movement inward. That's the magic of a good operating properly installed piston seal it should slightly pull the piston back in. Now apply air to the caliper again the wood block when you let the air pressure off you should be able to remove the wood block. If the block is stuck its a defective caliper. You should to easily be able to push the piston (pistons) back in the caliper bore (bores) Some times you will need to use the blocks as a wedge to push them back in but it should not be a fight. I have found countless defective brake calipers right out of the box they get away with poor craftsmanship cuzz pad slappers don't check them.

Leaving the springs out will cause a little extra drag, drag = heat you will see that side run around 10 deg hotter than the other side. Only someone like me would pick up on that because I am faced with those issues all the time. After a repair I check brake temps to confirm it will not come back to haunt me. My best friends for diagnosing brake issues are a Thermal imaging camera and a inferred temp gun.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I ran into those on our 2019 Buick Enclave. I eventually managed to get them installed. As I recall I had to install the pads in the caliper bracket, then install the springs and finally slide the calipers over the brake pads. I think I used a clamp to hold the pads together while I installed the springs. I then removed the clamp and held the pads together with one hand and installed the caliper with the other hand.

Looking at your pictures, it may not be possible to do what I did on your Ford. I doubt that you can slide the caliper over the pads while they're on the rotor.

 

[RedMF40]

You remove the caliper from the mount, install the mount then the springs and the caliper. I never have installed them as an assembly and never will. What comes out of the box is separated and inspected, the pins check for function and lube. The pads are fitted in the mount and filed on to move freely. The caliper bleeder is removed and inspected, the banjo bolt fit checked. The final test is to put wood blocks in the caliper and air check it.

I have seen pins with no lube and poor fit.
Pads with a poor fit.
Bleeder holes that have been repaired and do not function.
Banjo bolts that don't fit the wrong bolt are damaged out of the box.
Caliper pistons that don't retract, the piston dust boot not installed correctly.

Air check the caliper fill it with wood blocks with a littler space (1/4") for the pistons to move. Apply a little air enoufh to make the piston flex outward. Remove the air the piston should have a slit movement inward. That's the magic of a good operating properly installed piston seal it should slightly pull the piston back in. Now apply air to the caliper again the wood block when you let the air pressure off you should be able to remove the wood block. If the block is stuck its a defective caliper. You should to easily be able to push the piston (pistons) back in the caliper bore (bores) Some times you will need to use the blocks as a wedge to push them back in but it should not be a fight. I have found countless defective brake calipers right out of the box they get away with poor craftsmanship cuzz pad slappers don't check them.

Leaving the springs out will cause a little extra drag, drag = heat you will see that side run around 10 deg hotter than the other side. Only someone like me would pick up on that because I am faced with those issues all the time. After a repair I check brake temps to confirm it will not come back to haunt me. My best friends for diagnosing brake issues are a Thermal imaging camera and an inferred temp gun.

Thanks for the detailed info. It’s all back on the truck now and passed the test drive. Hate to leave OEM parts off. Just the way it goes sometimes.

 

[RedMF40]

I ran into those on our 2019 Buick Enclave. I eventually managed to get them installed. As I recall I had to install the pads in the caliper bracket, then install the springs and finally slide the calipers over the brake pads. I think I used a clamp to hold the pads together while I installed the springs. I then removed the clamp and held the pads together with one hand and installed the caliper with the other hand.

Looking at your pictures, it may not be possible to do what I did on your Ford. I doubt that you can slide the caliper over the pads while they're on the rotor.

When I did it last time I struggled for maybe a half hour, maybe more just getting those springs installed. I took out the sliders which was the only way I could see to get access to the back of the pads. I finally managed to get pads, springs and other mounting hardware in place so everyone was happy. The caliper assy was off the truck since I was installing a new one. BTW these aren’t “loaded” calipers. I bought the pads separately. Gerrit

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I’m replacing the front caliper on my F250 SD. Already did the other side a little while back. Is there some quick way to get these little springy retainers on the back side of the new pads? I remember struggling with this. Just take out the slider bolts to gain access or is there another way? Thanks for any help. GerritView attachment 78964View attachment 78965

You bought a "pre-loaded" caliper? Aren't they already in there?

 

[RedMF40]

You bought a "pre-loaded" caliper? Aren't they already in there?

No, just a reman caliper. I bought the pads separately.

 

[ASE guy]

You remove the caliper from the mount, install the mount then the springs and the caliper. I never have installed them as an assembly and never will. What comes out of the box is separated and inspected, the pins check for function and lube. The pads are fitted in the mount and filed on to move freely. The caliper bleeder is removed and inspected, the banjo bolt fit checked. The final test is to put wood blocks in the caliper and air check it.

I have seen pins with no lube and poor fit.
Pads with a poor fit.
Bleeder holes that have been repaired and do not function.
Banjo bolts that don't fit the wrong bolt are damaged out of the box.
Caliper pistons that don't retract, the piston dust boot not installed correctly.

Air check the caliper fill it with wood blocks with a littler space (1/4") for the pistons to move. Apply a little air enoufh to make the piston flex outward. Remove the air the piston should have a slit movement inward. That's the magic of a good operating properly installed piston seal it should slightly pull the piston back in. Now apply air to the caliper again the wood block when you let the air pressure off you should be able to remove the wood block. If the block is stuck its a defective caliper. You should to easily be able to push the piston (pistons) back in the caliper bore (bores) Some times you will need to use the blocks as a wedge to push them back in but it should not be a fight. I have found countless defective brake calipers right out of the box they get away with poor craftsmanship cuzz pad slappers don't check them.

Leaving the springs out will cause a little extra drag, drag = heat you will see that side run around 10 deg hotter than the other side. Only someone like me would pick up on that because I am faced with those issues all the time. After a repair I check brake temps to confirm it will not come back to haunt me. My best friends for diagnosing brake issues are a Thermal imaging camera and a inferred temp gun.

I teach my students to diagnose with a non contact thermometer, and to diagnose heat problems that are brake related. Good tip.

 

[wp6529]

I teach my students to diagnose with a non contact thermometer, and to diagnose heat problems that are brake related. Good tip.

Thermal cameras are affordable now, ~$300. Look at the HTI HT-18 and I think a successor HT-18B? They have higher res models for more $$ but the HT-18 is very good and more than sufficient for the job. Avoid overpriced and overhyped FLIR stuff as well as any ad-ons for cell phones, a self contained standalone unit is vastly more useable.

 

[bc]

Interesting. Guess I haven't seen those springs on a prius or older f150. My 2000 f150 came from the factory with a loose caliper bolt on the left front and the pads wore down on the corners prematurely cause the caliper sat in there at a cockeyed angle. I replaced it but ever since the ABS system quit working and I've replaced them a second time since then. Don't know if I messed up the speed sensor or what.

My problem every time is managing to get lube all over when trying to install the pads and calipers as they rarely just slide easily back in place. Then get out the brakleen.

 

[bc]

You remove the caliper from the mount, install the mount then the springs and the caliper. I never have installed them as an assembly and never will. What comes out of the box is separated and inspected, the pins check for function and lube. The pads are fitted in the mount and filed on to move freely. The caliper bleeder is removed and inspected, the banjo bolt fit checked. The final test is to put wood blocks in the caliper and air check it.

I have seen pins with no lube and poor fit.
Pads with a poor fit.
Bleeder holes that have been repaired and do not function.
Banjo bolts that don't fit the wrong bolt are damaged out of the box.
Caliper pistons that don't retract, the piston dust boot not installed correctly.

Air check the caliper fill it with wood blocks with a littler space (1/4") for the pistons to move. Apply a little air enoufh to make the piston flex outward. Remove the air the piston should have a slit movement inward. That's the magic of a good operating properly installed piston seal it should slightly pull the piston back in. Now apply air to the caliper again the wood block when you let the air pressure off you should be able to remove the wood block. If the block is stuck its a defective caliper. You should to easily be able to push the piston (pistons) back in the caliper bore (bores) Some times you will need to use the blocks as a wedge to push them back in but it should not be a fight. I have found countless defective brake calipers right out of the box they get away with poor craftsmanship cuzz pad slappers don't check them.

Leaving the springs out will cause a little extra drag, drag = heat you will see that side run around 10 deg hotter than the other side. Only someone like me would pick up on that because I am faced with those issues all the time. After a repair I check brake temps to confirm it will not come back to haunt me. My best friends for diagnosing brake issues are a Thermal imaging camera and a inferred temp gun.

Hello Hobo. Just wondering if there are any particular brands of brakes that should be avoided and some that are better? I typically buy from O'Reilly, autozone, or rock auto which have different brands.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Hello Hobo. Just wondering if there are any particular brands of brakes that should be avoided and some that are better? I typically buy from O'Reilly, autozone, or rock auto which have different brands.

It depends on what you are driving and how you are going to use it. No matter where you get the pads I stay with OEM spec material exclusively. Most all name brand mid priced lines are good for basic use. Its not the pad I have issues with its brake rotor runout, Some vehicles it seams to be the nature of the beast. You could blame it on the driver that is an issue but most of the time its the quality of the rotor. I warranty brakes for 2 years after that it is what it is most of the time they have put 40 to 50K on it so its rung up as normal ware and tear.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Thermal cameras are affordable now, ~$300. Look at the HTI HT-18 and I think a successor HT-18B? They have higher res models for more $$ but the HT-18 is very good and more than sufficient for the job. Avoid overpriced and overhyped FLIR stuff as well as any ad-ons for cell phones, a self contained standalone unit is vastly more useable.

FLIR is the cats meow bar none. I have a FLIR ONE for my cell phone I would put again any other. The problem is it will not work on my new phone : (. Yes there is a disadvantage to paring one up to a cell phone. I had to keep it on a charger all the time and battery life was short. It also eats a cell phone battery up but the quality of the screen was excellent.

 

[ASE guy]

I’m replacing the front caliper on my F250 SD. Already did the other side a little while back. Is there some quick way to get these little springy retainers on the back side of the new pads? I remember struggling with this. Just take out the slider bolts to gain access or is there another way? Thanks for any help. GerritView attachment 78964View attachment 78965

The pads must move freely and not bind, but be snug. I reinstall all clips and springs. I do not believe any OEM brake hardware was optional. Also, make sure you reinstall LokTite on the threaded bracket bolts if it was on the old ones. I use blue.

 

[bc]

It depends on what you are driving and how you are going to use it. No matter where you get the pads I stay with OEM spec material exclusively. Most all name brand mid priced lines are good for basic use. Its not the pad I have issues with its brake rotor runout, Some vehicles it seams to be the nature of the beast. You could blame it on the driver that is an issue but most of the time its the quality of the rotor. I warranty brakes for 2 years after that it is what it is most of the time they have put 40 to 50K on it so its rung up as normal ware and tear.

Thanks. O'Reilly gives me a 10 percent military discount as a veteran so I go there unless I plan far enough ahead to use rock auto.

Then the conversation always turns to metallic or ceramic. I opted for metallic on my daughter's prius since we were selling it anyway and it wouldn't see any heavy stop and go city traffic.

 

[wp6529]

FLIR is the cats meow bar none. I have a FLIR ONE for my cell phone I would put again any other. The problem is it will not work on my new phone : (. Yes there is a disadvantage to paring one up to a cell phone. I had to keep it on a charger all the time and battery life was short. It also eats a cell phone battery up but the quality of the screen was excellent.

So you haven't tried the HTI unit. FLIR quality is good, the company and price both not-so-good. The other brands such as HTI are high quality and a standalone handheld unit you just pickup, turn on and use is vastly superior to a cell phone attachment. I'll note that the HT-18 uses a standard 18650 cell and has a very long run time. The screen resolution is excellent and the pics/vids it records are also excellent. Since I got the HT-18 I use it very frequently, including to check brakes, wheel bearings, A/C and electrical panels, just grab and go easy and yes, it readily shows latent heat hand and footprints too.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I teach my students to diagnose with a non contact thermometer, and to diagnose heat problems that are brake related. Good tip.

Its easier said than done I know of no published specification on brake temperatures. To build a baseline you have to take the opportunity to check them with a IR gun every chance you get. I am fortunate to get right on the interstate and drive 5 miles without touching the brakes let it cost down to a stop and check brake temps. I can tell you right away if something is dragging/sticking with the brakes.

On a new break in check temps build your baseline.

When faced with a intermittent drivability issue you can not duplicate and they tell you it starts shaking slows down to the point they have to stop and wait for it to cool off. Check those brake temps as little as a 30deg difference throws up a flag.

Maybe I waist to much time with a IR gun I do solve problems no one else seams to get a grip on and paid well for it : ).
Sometimes you cannot fully see the pads with out disassembly if you guess by other means you may miss the obvious. This is one that about got by me I was taking care of an issue with the front brakes I knew one of the rears was running hotter than the other 30deg hotter. A caliper was stickling enoufh to drag a pad. You could not see this by pulling a wheel the caliper had to come off. This is one thing I have again a C-clamp are tools to push a caliper piston back you must be able to feel it go back in not FORCE it in : (.

 

[bc]

FLIR is the cats meow bar none. I have a FLIR ONE for my cell phone I would put again any other. The problem is it will not work on my new phone : (. Yes there is a disadvantage to paring one up to a cell phone. I had to keep it on a charger all the time and battery life was short. It also eats a cell phone battery up but the quality of the screen was excellent.

I'd like to have a flir to use around the farm to see what wild animals are roaming around at night. Don't want to spend more than a hundred bux for occasional use so that may not happen for a while.

Where in NC are you. Spent a few years with the 82nd back in the day.